360 Magnum Daily Driver (but fun too!!!)

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Tuesday

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Apologies - probably all been shared before, but…..

This topic has no doubt likely been covered many times before but am welcome of some ideas.

I’ve a 360 Magnum engine out of a 2001 Dakota, it’s currently in the machine shop being prepared for me to start a rebuild.

Am a novice builder and am welcoming of advice - here is what it’s going in and what the use will be. EFI is going in (not a carb) and am not shifting on that….

A 1973 Plymouth Scamp (currently 318) - daily driver - want to be able to pull away quickly, punch in and out of corners - decent fuel economy would be nice - DOESN’T need to be choppy or loud (think I’m going deaf anyway and happy to keep my ears intact for longer!) - this build is about performance not noise. Ultimately, the build is to get daily enjoyment, but if I want to put my foot down, thump into and out of a corner and play around with some autocross (and grin from ear to ear, always) I can.

Magnum engine is a roller cam. Am pretty set on EngineQuest heads (after lots of digging) but other than that, am open to ideas and suggestions/advice. Probably Holley EFI, as Edlebrock doesn’t currently support Magnums.

Budget isn’t bare bones but don’t want to go bankrupt.
 
Are you making any changes to the bottom end?

I did a 2001 5.9 swap in my 66 Barracuda. I tore it down and had a machine shop hot tank, hone bores, new, main, rod, and cam bearings. Sent my cam to Oregon Cam Grinding for a regrind. Put it together with Edelbrock 2.02 heads with Comp rolloer rockers, Air Gap intake and 650 AVS carb. I used the front end off my 273 so I could keep the V-belts. Finished off with Doug's headers and a new PTC 9.5" torque converter (that's where your fun is!), and 3:23 Sur-Grip in the 8.75. it's fun, especially in the little Barracuda.

I'll agree with @jazak5 that a 408 would check all your boxes. I see one in my distant future!!!
 
Apologies - probably all been shared before, but…..

This topic has no doubt likely been covered many times before but am welcome of some ideas.

I’ve a 360 Magnum engine out of a 2001 Dakota, it’s currently in the machine shop being prepared for me to start a rebuild.

Am a novice builder and am welcoming of advice - here is what it’s going in and what the use will be. EFI is going in (not a carb) and am not shifting on that….

A 1973 Plymouth Scamp (currently 318) - daily driver - want to be able to pull away quickly, punch in and out of corners - decent fuel economy would be nice - DOESN’T need to be choppy or loud (think I’m going deaf anyway and happy to keep my ears intact for longer!) - this build is about performance not noise. Ultimately, the build is to get daily enjoyment, but if I want to put my foot down, thump into and out of a corner and play around with some autocross (and grin from ear to ear, always) I can.

Magnum engine is a roller cam. Am pretty set on EngineQuest heads (after lots of digging) but other than that, am open to ideas and suggestions/advice. Probably Holley EFI, as Edlebrock doesn’t currently support Magnums.

Budget isn’t bare bones but don’t want to go bankrupt.

I did that swap with the magnum and put a 42RH overdrive behind it with 3.55 sure grip rear end.
The 318B Engine Quest heads are drilled and tapped for LA style intakes if you can get them.
All the front accessories off your 318 fit the Magnum if you prefer to run the OE V belt system.
I chose to stay carbureted because I don’t trust the electronics of EFI, and wanted to be able to get parts anywhere any time.
Everything on my car can be gotten at any parts store in any town on any day.
I have taken my car on trips as long as 17 hours one way, and if an EFI system failed 1000 miles from home, then what?
I do have decades of carb’s experience though, so I get some just don’t want to mess with it.
 
The only engine quest heads available now are stock replacement heads. The older “good” heads are no longer made. If you can find a set of the older CH318A/B heads they’re definitely worth having. The new castings are not.
 
The only engine quest heads available now are stock replacement heads. The older “good” heads are no longer made. If you can find a set of the older CH318A/B heads they’re definitely worth having. The new castings are not.
Weĺĺ, I wouldn't say they're not worth having, they're just not an improvement over the stockers. They're still a decent replacement head if your originals are cracked, but that's about it unless you invest in additional port work. I've seen some Ebay sellers that offer them already redrilled for LA manifolds, but they're not the same as the old NZ heads.
 
Are you making any changes to the bottom end?

I did a 2001 5.9 swap in my 66 Barracuda. I tore it down and had a machine shop hot tank, hone bores, new, main, rod, and cam bearings. Sent my cam to Oregon Cam Grinding for a regrind. Put it together with Edelbrock 2.02 heads with Comp rolloer rockers, Air Gap intake and 650 AVS carb. I used the front end off my 273 so I could keep the V-belts. Finished off with Doug's headers and a new PTC 9.5" torque converter (that's where your fun is!), and 3:23 Sur-Grip in the 8.75. it's fun, especially in the little Barracuda.

I'll agree with @jazak5 that a 408 would check all your boxes. I see one in my distant future!!!
Yes - am starting with a bare block. Planning on keeping the crank shaft and connecting rods but rest is up for modification.
 
Weĺĺ, I wouldn't say they're not worth having, they're just not an improvement over the stockers. They're still a decent replacement head if your originals are cracked, but that's about it unless you invest in additional port work. I've seen some Ebay sellers that offer them already redrilled for LA manifolds, but they're not the same as the old NZ heads.
I’ve heard, haven’t used them, that they are worse than a stock magnum casting.
 
Stock mag bottom end, kb107 pistons, 228 to 236 @50 on intake cam, mid .500s lift edlebrock mag heads. That will be a stout street 360 magnum. Your intake and efi of choice. I’d run the terminatorX max and a 46re trans.
 
I did that swap with the magnum and put a 42RH overdrive behind it with 3.55 sure grip rear end.
The 318B Engine Quest heads are drilled and tapped for LA style intakes if you can get them.
All the front accessories off your 318 fit the Magnum if you prefer to run the OE V belt system.
I chose to stay carbureted because I don’t trust the electronics of EFI, and wanted to be able to get parts anywhere any time.
Everything on my car can be gotten at any parts store in any town on any day.
I have taken my car on trips as long as 17 hours one way, and if an EFI system failed 1000 miles from home, then what?
I do have decades of carb’s experience though, so I get some just don’t want to mess with it.
I’m still learning the joys of mechanics but I’m far from competent, beyond internet research and limited knowledge. I’m set on EFI, as the car really is a daily driver, I commute to work in her every day and just like the benefits of EFI, especially one that is self learning and managing.
 
I’m still learning the joys of mechanics but I’m far from competent, beyond internet research and limited knowledge. I’m set on EFI, as the car really is a daily driver, I commute to work in her every day and just like the benefits of EFI, especially one that is self learning and managing.

Mine is my daily driver as well.
 
Holley EFI systems seem to be quite good but you really don't need EFI for a car to be daily driver-friendly. Don't get me wrong I'd love it if my Duster had it but it's reliable as a hammer with the Street Demon carb. I'm going to start driving it to work more often once the temps cool down here, it's just too hot during the day right now to drive a car without A/C. I'd put the money from an EFI system into better heads and/or that TKX setup you mentioned but that's JMO.

To answer your main questions a bit better, a good roller cam with around 224° @ .050" duration on a 108° LSA will have just a slight bit of chop with 10:1+ compression and be completely street-friendly with good low-end and a wide power band. I had Jim at Racer Brown custom grind me a cam for my 5.9L with similar but slightly milder specs (for high altitude and lower compression) and couldn't be happier with the results. You'll also be ahead reusing stock Magnum lifters, aftermarket hydraulics have a chance of either collapsing or wiping out (flat tappets).

Overall don't be afraid to reuse "old" parts. The factory components in Magnum engines are very good quality (minus the crack-prone heads), certainly more than a lot of current aftermarket stuff. I basically reused an entire high-mileage (150k+) junkyard short block, just added fresh rod bearings and it runs like a champ with 10k miles so far.
 
Magnum respond well to 4bbl headers and cam here's a 212 roller making 350 hp

 
Magnum respond well to 4bbl headers and cam here's a 212 roller making 350 hp


Absolutely.
I’m running a stock bottom end with a roller regrind from Oregon Cam Grinders 214/224 on a 110 with .512 lift, 1-5/8 long tube headers and a vacuum secondary Holley 770 Street Avenger.
Using Huges 1110 springs, retainers and locks with the factory Magnum roller lifters and 1.6 rockers.
I run 95 percent of the time between 1,800 and 3k, but it’ll certainly wind up when I get on it.
 
Holley EFI systems seem to be quite good but you really don't need EFI for a car to be daily driver-friendly. Don't get me wrong I'd love it if my Duster had it but it's reliable as a hammer with the Street Demon carb. I'm going to start driving it to work more often once the temps cool down here, it's just too hot during the day right now to drive a car without A/C. I'd put the money from an EFI system into better heads and/or that TKX setup you mentioned but that's JMO.

To answer your main questions a bit better, a good roller cam with around 224° @ .050" duration on a 108° LSA will have just a slight bit of chop with 10:1+ compression and be completely street-friendly with good low-end and a wide power band. I had Jim at Racer Brown custom grind me a cam for my 5.9L with similar but slightly milder specs (for high altitude and lower compression) and couldn't be happier with the results. You'll also be ahead reusing stock Magnum lifters, aftermarket hydraulics have a chance of either collapsing or wiping out (flat tappets).

Overall don't be afraid to reuse "old" parts. The factory components in Magnum engines are very good quality (minus the crack-prone heads), certainly more than a lot of current aftermarket stuff. I basically reused an entire high-mileage (150k+) junkyard short block, just added fresh rod bearings and it runs like a champ with 10k miles so far.
This is great - and echos some of the direction I’ve seen online re the cam - think I with you there. Am using the majority of parts I have but only have the block, crank and piston rods, spider etc.
 
I’ve heard, haven’t used them, that they are worse than a stock magnum casting.
No, not true. If you try and have them ported, there’s not a lot of meat to remove to improve the head. They’re fine as is or bowl ported.

Type into the YouTube search, Charlie Servedio, he’s porting magnum heads right now.


- probably all been shared before, but…..

This topic has no doubt likely been covered many times before but am welcome of some ideas.

I’ve a 360 Magnum engine out of a 2001 Dakota, it’s currently in the machine shop being prepared for me to start a rebuild.

Am a novice builder and am welcoming of advice - here is what it’s going in and what the use will be. EFI is going in (not a carb) and am not shifting on that….

A 1973 Plymouth Scamp (currently 318) - daily driver - want to be able to pull away quickly, punch in and out of corners - decent fuel economy would be nice - DOESN’T need to be choppy or loud (think I’m going deaf anyway and happy to keep my ears intact for longer!) - this build is about performance not noise. Ultimately, the build is to get daily enjoyment, but if I want to put my foot down, thump into and out of a corner and play around with some autocross (and grin from ear to ear, always) I can.

Magnum engine is a roller cam. Am pretty set on EngineQuest heads (after lots of digging) but other than that, am open to ideas and suggestions/advice. Probably Holley EFI, as Edlebrock doesn’t currently support Magnums.

Budget isn’t bare bones but don’t want to go bankrupt.


I run a bone stock 2003, 5.9 long block with a RPM AG intake, Edel 750, MP distributor with a Chrome box and Hooker 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust. Excellent driver, go anywhere, rock solid. Backed by a mild 2500 stall converter & 727 w/a 9-1/4 rear w/3.55 gears on 245/60/15’s.

I myself wouldn’t increase the compression. I’d even drop the bone stock ratio down .5. It’ll run on 87 if you use a carb. (I know you’re not, that was for everyone else.) or run a larger cam to drop the dynamic compression a tad for 87 octane.

The best thing about the fuel injection is how well it runs and how nicely it keep the cylinders even after many many miles. A small roller would work very well
 
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No, not true. If you try and have them ported, there’s not a lot of meat to remove to improve the head. They’re fine as is or bowl ported.

Type into the YouTube search, Charlie Servedio, he’s porting magnum heads right now.





I run a bone stock 2003, 5.9 long block with a RPM AG intake, Edel 750, MP distributor with a Chrome box and Hooker 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust. Excellent driver, go anywhere, rock solid. Backed by a mild 2500 stall converter & 727 w/a 9-1/4 rear w/3.55 gears on 245/60/15’s.

I myself wouldn’t increase the compression. I’d even drop the bone stock ratio down .5. It’ll run on 87 if you use a carb. (I know you’re not, that was for everyone else.) or run a larger cam to drop the dynamic compression a tad for 87 octane.

The best thing about the fuel injection is how well it runs and how nicely it keep the cylinders even after many many miles. A small roller would work very well
This group has got the carb ticking through my mind, but the EFI for longevity and long miles still seems more stuck. I’ve heard the same on the heads - too much choice ! Am going to look up Charlie Servedio shortly - thank you for the tip!
 
Absolutely.
I’m running a stock bottom end with a roller regrind from Oregon Cam Grinders 214/224 on a 110 with 5.12 lift, 1-5/8 long tube headers and a vacuum secondary Holley 770 Street Avenger.
Using Huges 1110 springs, retainers and locks with the factory Magnum roller lifters and 1.6 rockers.
I run 95 percent of the time between 1,800 and 3k, but it’ll certainly wind up when I get on it.
I think your driving style and aims sounds aligned with my thinking!
 
The only engine quest heads available now are stock replacement heads. The older “good” heads are no longer made. If you can find a set of the older CH318A/B heads they’re definitely worth having. The new castings are not.
Has anybody got any first hand experience with the new castings - negative or positive?
 
considering the manual swap, i'd maybe go a little more aggressive with the cam. the specs that trail beast is running would be like the +1 to what i suggested before, which i think would be really nice with that EFI set up and crashbox. and a Z06 cam isn't much bigger or more aggressive than that.

going thru oregon for a regrind makes sense in that you can spec out exactly what you want and save a bit of dosh as well.

it really comes down to what your threshold of tolerance is for a daily driver and what the environment you'll actually be daily driving in-- ie a cross town commute in LA traffic is not akin to a suburban loop in a 2nd city of a major metroplex.
 
Most of my daily drive is free flowing, interstate or around 45/50 mph. Does that help?
 
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