360 Motor beeing installed this wekend

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RichardJ916

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I am very close to installing a 360 Motor from a friend of mine that was removed from a B Body, the motor is very fresh. During the time I had it in the garage I have been cleaning and installing new parts. I replaced all the timing cover - water pump bolts with chrome ones, and also am going to replacing all the headers bolts as well.

My question is what bolts for the water pump and headers need RTV installed so i am not sitting in a pool of water when installed.

Also the timing chain cover bots were also replaced.

Thanks for your help.....????
 

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Thanks for the updates...
 

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Looking really good, I am bout to clean up an old 360 and put it in the scamp, I hope it looks as good as yours
 
Water pump should be fine, but the front and rear bolts on the headers need sealant.

Header bolts don't need sealent.

Just my experience with pretty chrome bolts......they have always leaked for me. On my water pump the lower bolts on the right and left (in your picture) will need a little RTV on the threads (if I recall correctly). Possibly the ones on the under side of the pump (not in the pic)....can't remember.

FWIW, I use strait water when I fill my radiator after a rebuild, just in case there is a leak. It is much easier to clean up, and it is easy to drain out and add coolant after you have leak checked everything.
 
Looking really good, I am bout to clean up an old 360 and put it in the scamp, I hope it looks as good as yours

It didnt look this nice when I first started...

Before and After...

Night and Day
 

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Header bolts don't need sealent.

Just my experience with pretty chrome bolts......they have always leaked for me. On my water pump the lower bolts on the right and left (in your picture) will need a little RTV on the threads (if I recall correctly). Possibly the ones on the under side of the pump (not in the pic)....can't remember.

FWIW, I use strait water when I fill my radiator after a rebuild, just in case there is a leak. It is much easier to clean up, and it is easy to drain out and add coolant after you have leak checked everything.

Good point about the water only part....
Thanks
 
The front and rear header bolts on both sides will need sealant if you remove the factory studs. Never had a water pump leak...But ask me how I know about those header bolts...SB or BB... BTW Beautiful Ride...
 
Wow!! That is one very fine looking engine Richard :happy2: Great job :cheers:
Sounds like you have everything moving forward
 
i have never used sealant on a header bolt and never had a leak after removing a factory stud.

very nice ride!
 
I have , more than once. The front and rear have studs that go into the water jacket, if you remove them (due to clearance issues), they will leak.
 
yup, you some thread sealant on the header bolts. Better safe then sorry,
 
I have , more than once. The front and rear have studs that go into the water jacket, if you remove them (due to clearance issues), they will leak.

Ok, now I'm going to have to go home and pull a header bolt just to see if I spring a leak, because I have never had a leak either...and have never put any sealer on the header bolts....weird....does this only apply to factory heads by chance? The reason I ask is I'm currently using Edelbrock heads with no studs, and come to think of it, all the iron head I used in the past had the studs on the front and rear.....mmmm......I'll definitely have to look when I get home tonight.
 
all im saying is that whenever i have replaced my studs in a factory head with header bolts and no sealant, i have never had a leak. and yes, if you have coolant in the head and pull a stud out, it will piss a little coolant. but i also have taken studs out of heads that were full of coolant that didnt pee anything.
 
On factory heads the front and rear bolts go into water jackets, on the Edelbrocks they are blind holes
 
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