360 parts question, HP parts support

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C300

C300

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I have read and know there are better parts out there. I have these parts on the shelf and want to use them. Stock 84 1 ton truck 360 i pulled the cam out of. will freshen short block and new pistons. Stock heads. Will follow the porting job and rebuild in Hotrod Mag. i have. porting is said to support 430 hp. What CR will be best with this combo ? on 92 pump gas Edelbrock TM5 intake. 284 - .509 cam. How much lift can the stock heads take ? will they take this cam with correct springs? thinking of dropping this in a '67 barracuda Formula S, 4 speed while the 273 is out. With this cam, what should i expect from a 360 ? Had it in a 340 years ago and it thumped hard. need a flywheel. pistons rings n springs and gaskets. that's it. Want to get rolling,,,
 
Holy question fest Batman!

That cam looks like an oval track cam.
If you have 93 octane, use that @ no more than 10-1. (I'd rather say 9.5-1)
I don't read Hot Rod. Crap mag. I have no idea about there porting job.
They normally screw up the MoPar builds really bad. My 12 YO kids builds them better. (No lie!)
The stock head can take that lift.
 
I'd use the Comp 272XE. That should make 400 HP easily attainable. Plus it sounds really good and is streetable. Plus a 750 CFM Carb and Air Gap intake.
 
thanks Rumblefish. Probably freashin the heads and see what the spring pressures are, but they are old. not reuseable. if i find some eddys used i'll snag them. Question ;-0 Is there an issue with 360 cams being soft and coming apart ? or is this the no zinc in the oil situation like the 78-83 vets soft cams ? If i could post pictures it would show the lobe edges flaking and some chunks missing. is there a preferred additive for the oil currently ?
 
You may want to consider a better, more modern intake manifold. The Edelbrock TM5 Tarantula is junk, as is the old, original Torker. They will "work", but aren't worth using if at all possible.
 
Lots of 360 combos on the site. There a many different ways to get there.

What are the rear gears, intended use of the car and realistic budget for the build?
 
C300 said:
thanks Rumblefish. Probably freashin the heads and see what the spring pressures are, but they are old. not reuseable. if i find some eddys used i'll snag them. Question ;-0 Is there an issue with 360 cams being soft and coming apart ? or is this the no zinc in the oil situation like the 78-83 vets soft cams ? If i could post pictures it would show the lobe edges flaking and some chunks missing. is there a preferred additive for the oil currently ?
Click to expand...

I have not seen a soft cam issue in a long time. It is also not limited to a "360" but it is more of a problem of the cam blanks the manufacturers get from there suppliers. This where you see in my sig below, I quoted a fellow member in saying to go with a roller cam. No worries about zinc or lack there off. But, if a Hyd/solid cam is what you want, use the break in oil and use a quart with every change or what the manufacturer recommends.

The sides of a cam lobe can and do flak/break off. This is more due to the ruff edge of the unmachined lobe. It should never come off as a chunk.

Comp Cams, and other cam grinders often have there own special break in oil or as in some cases, use a well know and respected companies oil like "Brad Penn" oil.

Depending on the power output you seek, the stock head maybe worthless. Used Edel. heads may not be cost effective. A lot depends on what you want and/or need which may not be the same.
There's nothing wrong with ported iron heads. Since you all ready own them, porting them to a certain level is still the current Edel. Head price ahead of the total cost of or vs. an Edel. head vs. an allready owned stock head. (Did that make sense to you) Will the stock head need to flow as much as an Edel.Head (?), are you going to use all of the Edel. heads flow abilty to its fullest advantage?

If the cam lift is only .500, the everything above (in the heads flow abilty) is wasted and left on the table. It is great to have room to grow. But that's your choice.
Other than weight savings, (IMO) if the cam is a low lifting cam and the iron heads can be ported and flow close to the Edel. head, then why bother with the Edel. head? Weight savings that cost the price of the head?
 
Here's the cam. Told it's a stock 74 or 77 truck 360
 

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This engine had a edelbrock 318/360 intake on it. So I stuck it on the engine I put in the truck. heard nothing good about the TM5. I thought it being as old as the 284 .509 cam they would pair up well.... I turned down another edelbrock 318/360 intake for $25. would you use that before the TM5 ? The plan was to paint the TM5 and the engine would look stock(273) to the off brand guys. 383 crate engines. 3-350hp. just play with them.
My other '67 FB is getting a 440 based 512. Same color car. not much stock.
 
Locomotion said:
You may want to consider a better, more modern intake manifold. The Edelbrock TM5 Tarantula is junk, as is the old, original Torker. They will "work", but aren't worth using if at all possible.
Click to expand...

What do you reccomend for a street only car as far as a intake?
 
Just my opinions, but RPM, Air Gap, LD340 or Stealth would be good for either C300 or AHcuda. OEM Thermoquad intakes aren't bad, but are heavy and you're limited to a spreadbore. Dual plane M1 or standard Edelbrock Performer would be just ok for a mostly stock engine. I'm a Holley guy and have a lot to learn about TQ carbs. But they can be made to perform very well.

As for the TM5, I don't know of a good reason to use it unless you simply can't afford anything else.
 
You can bolt a Holley (or any square bore carb) on a TQ intake but I am no fan of that move myself. Or Holley carbs.
Loco hits the nail on the head.

I would stay away from single plane intakes. Unless you plan on starting your car at the starting line at around 3500/4000 RPM's or have no issue with missing 20-30+ lbs. of torque driving around town.

While it is possible to use a single plane in the street and have no issues with driveability, setting it up wrong will only cause problems.
 
I took the square to spread spacer off. running performer 318/360 spread bore manifold on a truck. don't want to raze the RPM band. runs fine.
I'll get an airgap for the car engine. thanks
 
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