GTSDustin
Well-Known Member
Where should I set initial timing on my 360?
Automatic with 2800 stall
545 lift cam
MSD ignition
Automatic with 2800 stall
545 lift cam
MSD ignition
360 timing
- Thread starter GTSDustin
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I would set total timing first. 35-36* and then see were the initial comes in.
What cam?
20-26* If you plan to run any type of curve.
If you have a pro-billet, my guess is none of the bushings will allow you to get enough initial timing. The black 18* will most likely have you about 4-10 degrees short on initial.
If you have a pro-billet, my guess is none of the bushings will allow you to get enough initial timing. The black 18* will most likely have you about 4-10 degrees short on initial.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
To add the two posts above 'togehter' you really need a re-curved distributor. This has been covered here many times. Here's one thread
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=178584
Initial..........you want to set with a tach / vacuum gauge at idle keeping the idle "set back" as you go. Highest idle speed / highest vacuum, then retard and drop the vacuum down "just a touch" if necessary to
stop starter kickback, and ping off throttle / heavy load
"For starters" you want 15 or so degrees initial for very mild
20 or more BTC for a mild cam and even more for wilder
You want about 18-20 crank degrees of advance "in" the mechanical advance. This again is crank degrees which is 1/2 distributor degrees. If you read through the old Motors / shop manuals, advance is almost ALWAYS in distributor degrees.
And last, your vacuum is 'added onto' all the rest. You might be able to run more than 50-55 degrees with vacuum going down a level highway, light throttle at speed.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=178584
Initial..........you want to set with a tach / vacuum gauge at idle keeping the idle "set back" as you go. Highest idle speed / highest vacuum, then retard and drop the vacuum down "just a touch" if necessary to
stop starter kickback, and ping off throttle / heavy load
"For starters" you want 15 or so degrees initial for very mild
20 or more BTC for a mild cam and even more for wilder
You want about 18-20 crank degrees of advance "in" the mechanical advance. This again is crank degrees which is 1/2 distributor degrees. If you read through the old Motors / shop manuals, advance is almost ALWAYS in distributor degrees.
And last, your vacuum is 'added onto' all the rest. You might be able to run more than 50-55 degrees with vacuum going down a level highway, light throttle at speed.
GTSDustin
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with Msd setup. I took the car out yesterday for the first time and it's a real dog. I set initial timing at 10 degrees for starters. I guess I'm just used to fairly stock engines and old school ignition ..
10 at idle. Thats good starting point.Like Cudafever said 35 max mech advance is about max.
Best place to find if you car pings after timing is set is deepest hill that you can find near you, slam on gas and listen, if you hear pinging (soung is like two metallic spoons hitting each other) back down timing 2-3 degrees at a time. Pinging happens before you can acually hear it, by accelaring on uphill you are on safe side.
you brobably need to recurve you distributtor for max performance, less max mech adv.
Mine is mild 318 is set 12 deg mech plus maniflold vacuum 10 = 22 decgrees at idle, mine max mech advance is 35 degrees and when cruising advance is about 45 (35 mech and 10 vacuum)
Here is good info between advance and espesially ported vs manifold vacuum.
http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
I know ist from chevy site but same principals apply.
this is why i use MANIFOLD vacuum, ported vacuum is for the smog cars.
Best place to find if you car pings after timing is set is deepest hill that you can find near you, slam on gas and listen, if you hear pinging (soung is like two metallic spoons hitting each other) back down timing 2-3 degrees at a time. Pinging happens before you can acually hear it, by accelaring on uphill you are on safe side.
you brobably need to recurve you distributtor for max performance, less max mech adv.
Mine is mild 318 is set 12 deg mech plus maniflold vacuum 10 = 22 decgrees at idle, mine max mech advance is 35 degrees and when cruising advance is about 45 (35 mech and 10 vacuum)
Here is good info between advance and espesially ported vs manifold vacuum.
http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
I know ist from chevy site but same principals apply.
this is why i use MANIFOLD vacuum, ported vacuum is for the smog cars.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
(1) set the initial with the "vac gauge method" (2) shorten the slots to get 35 total & this is with the can capped (initial+slots) (3) mix/match springs so that you are just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest (most likely to ping) day (4) plug in/adj the can. CCW with a 3/32" allen wrench brings it in slower. I'm running 18 initial on a stock 318 & you have a wild cam. Alot of work but alot of gain to be had. After setting (1) if the starter is cranky when hot then reduce the initial 1 degree & see how it acts. also check rotor phasing/reluctor gap/rotor tip to cap terminal radial clearance (NAPA MO3000 rotor (Echlin) has a .060" longer blade $8 & change out the door or make your own). EDIT this is if you are going on ported, the full manifold article posted is a VG read & sounds doable/beneficial.
Yeah it should be a dog with 10* initial. 10* is great for a STOCK 318 with a cam in the 200* at .050, not for a camshaft in the 240* at .050. Probably smells like a fuel truck out the tail pipes at idle. Lots of RPM drop when you put it in gear.
Find the initial timing spot the engine wants FIRST! Then work on getting the total number where the car runs best. Your initial timing isn't going to move once you figure it out.
Total timing method is a horrible way to set ignition timing on a street driven car.
Look up the instructions for the distruibutor you have on the MSD site so you know what you have to deal with. Probably an 8534
Find the initial timing spot the engine wants FIRST! Then work on getting the total number where the car runs best. Your initial timing isn't going to move once you figure it out.
Total timing method is a horrible way to set ignition timing on a street driven car.
Look up the instructions for the distruibutor you have on the MSD site so you know what you have to deal with. Probably an 8534
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