383 dies on hard right turn

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mad accountant

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The last few times I've taken the Dart out, it has wanted to die when taking a 90 degree right turn, like into the gas station, my driveway, etc.. The engine will quit about 3/4 into the right turn, and then takes a few cranks before it will start up again, like the carb is empty. Any other time I try to start it up when it's warm it fires immediately. Getting sick of planning all my trips to be left turns only.

The motor was rebuilt 4 years ago, has about 1500 miles on it and has been a royal pain in my *** every summer. Motor is mainly stock, has a Comp 268H cam, Schumacker headers and and Eddy 1407 w/electric choke on top of a Performer 383 intake. Last year it took most of the summer to track down an intermittent fuel delivery problem. Took the carb apart and checked everything, all was well though I had to adjust the float height a skosh. Finally figured out it was the fuel pump pushrod. Replaced that and it ran great the rest of the summer until the day I was putting it away, when it just quit and wouldn't restart. Since it gave up the ghost in the garage, I left it for the spring.

Didn't have a chance to do much with it until a month ago, when I finally tracked down latest problem to the distributor pickup. Replaced it, but had to take it back out again because the adjustment slot wasn't long enough to properly adjust the reluctor gap. Fired right up, and runs great....as long as you don't need to take a 90 degree right.

The car runs great all day, under any condition and aceleration until you're taking a slow 90 degree right turn. I don't have the balls to try a hard right turn at 50 with the accelerator pinned, so take it for what it's worth. So the $64,000 question....what do I start looking for? I know plenty will say "get a Holley" and while that's not out of the realm of possibility, since this combo has run fine before it should be repairable without throwing hundreds of dollars at it.
 
One or both of your float levels is too low. Take the top off and reset the floats. The needle and seat could be dirty and sticking closed. Ill bet that 64K if you stuck another carb on there the problem would not be there
 
One or both of your float levels is too low. Take the top off and reset the floats

I was thinking the same thing, but wouldn't the bowls go dry under extended hard acceleration? I can keep my foot on the floor for a good long time and it's never stumbled.
 
The very same thing happened to me a long time ago with my 1964 Dodge Polara 500. I had worked on the car and had left the battery hold down bracket on the work bench. The positive battery post hit the fender and the car shut off when I made a right turn. I moved the battery away from the fender and reinstalled the bracket. The problem was solved.
 
The very same thing happened to me a long time ago with my 1964 Dodge Polara 500. I had worked on the car and had left the battery hold down bracket on the work bench. The positive battery post hit the fender and the car shut off when I made a right turn. I moved the battery away from the fender and reinstalled the bracket. The problem was solved.

Battery is in the trunk, in a plastic battery box BUT the Ferd solenoid I'm using is exposed. I'll check the area around the connections and the connections themselves.
 
Check engine grounds as well. Something may be shifting causing a poor connection from engine to chassis.
 
Seems to me you don't even know if it's electrical or fuel

I would try and find a big empty parking lot and do some "testing."

You have a tach? Even if you do, you might want to 'rig' a voltmeter or test lamp to the coil + terminal. make some turns, and as it dies, try and see if the tach is still reading. If it's fuel, and you still have spark, the tach should read if the engine is still turning over. Likewise, look for loss of power on your "rigged" coil power monitor.
 
i think the float may be too high...if it was electrical it would fire right up,sounds to me like it floods when you corner hard and would explain the hard start afterwards.
 
Seems to me you don't even know if it's electrical or fuel

I would try and find a big empty parking lot and do some "testing."

You're right, I don't know if it's fuel or electrical which is one of the reasons I'm asking before checking everything. I was leaning towards fuel just because it takes so much more cranking to restart when this happens. I'll head for a parking lot and keep an eye on the tach when it kills. Thanks for the tip.
 
i think the float may be too high...if it was electrical it would fire right up,sounds to me like it floods when you corner hard and would explain the hard start afterwards.

Actually this is what I was thinking.
 
so what is the cure to flooded floats?

i am having the same issue but on left turns.

1968 barracuda 440 engine four barrel eddlebrock.
 
New ones, or solder up the old if you can and trust the repair.

New ones?

new floats? or new carburetor? or new pins? (the pins that lift floats.) :coffee2::burnout:

i have some experience with carburetors but from motorcycle im guessing its similar anyways.

if its flooding it means that the pins under the floats are stuck correct causing them to flood and/or not engaging. so new pins and maybe floats?
 
New floats, sorry. If the floats are flooding that means they're filling up with fuel and sinking, effectively holding the inlet valve open all the time. The fuel pump keeps on filling the bowl with the sunken float and you'll probably have fuel spraying out the vent. If the pins you're talking about are the float pivots, I'd doubt that they'd stick and cause the float to hang up in the down position with a full bowl, but I suppose it's happened. If the pins you're talking about are the needle valves attached to the float to regulate the fuel flow, they would have to come off the float and would basically be loose in the bottom of the bowl since I think they're brass and won't float. Again unlikely, but I'm sure it's happened.
 
I mentioned low float level because I had the same problem making right turns . I reset the floats and that cured the problem. One of them had a low drop
 
it can bee a pia to find the sweet spot so you can corner hard and still have fuel at wot.i had this same problem with a thermoquad years ago and have seen it since in edelbrock carbs too....really all carter style carbs.
I'm not saying they're bad but this is a common problem with em if you drive your mopar hard.

just have to set floats and drive a while ...rinse and repeat till it's just right.


oh yeah also a quick fix would be to replace the edelbrock with a holley 750 dp... should run great right outta tha box.
 
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