383 intake / carb help for my 73 Dart

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Popdart

Popdart

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Hey guys . . . .
I have a 70 383 4 bbl in my 73 Dart. It's just a cruiser. The guy I bought it from didn't know anything about it but that it was a "383 with a mild cam". Haven't opened it up and really don't plan on it yet. I have found it is a 1970 383, has a Holley 1850-4 4160 carb, a "Streetmaster 383" intake, and exhaust manifolds. Carb needs a rebuild and I know nothing about the intake. Can you guys give me some ideas and direction? Is this Holley any good, would it be better to replace it or just rebuild it? What is the Streetmaster 383 and is it good for street use? My brother-in-law sez it is the wrong setup. It has the spread bore manifold and the square Holley pattern carb on it (could this be universal to both? He sez go back to the stock manifold and rebuild the carb. I want it to cruise well without getting too crazy. Your comments are welcomed & appreciated. Rog
 
Do you have issues with the way it runs, or are you wanting it to run better? If all it needs is a carb rebuild, go from there and if you're not satisfied then you can start tearing into it.
 
It runs good enough to drive. Plain and simple, it doesn't run right. I would like to improve on what I have. Thx, Rog
 
Gotcha. Well, being that you know it needs a carb rebuild, that would certainly make a large impact on the drivability.

A thorough tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel and air filter, timing verification, etc.) would likely go a long way to helping you out. Also, recommend doing a compression check, read your plugs, etc. Are there any abnormal noises, leaks, smoking?

Diagnose where you're at first, and then from there you'll be able to more accurately guide your direction.
 
Everything you mentioned has been done with nothing out of the ordinary or adjustment . . . . .
 
On a separate note, the intake might not be the best match for a mild cam and stock manifolds...so if after you work out the carb issues, timing adjustment, and a good tune up it still doesn't perform up to par, consider getting something different...like a dual plane.
 
What's your timing at? Initial and total, and when is it all in?

How does your compression check out? By that I mean, actual numbers
 
3 at idle is really slow-it really should be in the 12-18 area for a bone stock engine, but you'll have to shorten the curve to about 34 or so total. Compression is pretty low though, although consistent at least.

Edit: do you have the stock intake available? It may be an improvement compared to the streetmaster for cruising...but I probably wouldn't swap it until I rebuilt the carb and dialed it in some...if it can't run right with some jetting and pv tuning, and timing, then I'd swap the intake...

Just my .02

I'm sure a couple others will chime in with some good advice.
 
I'd like to see at least 10/36 for timing. A square bore intake dual plane. Rebuild carb for now, replace it last.
 
Increasing your initial timing will help your idle vacuum, which will very likely make it idle much cleaner-especially when the carb is freshened up. It can also help a soggy low end, which that intake might be creating or making worse with the low number compression.

34-36 at around 3200 total timing should be about right for most stock engines, at least as a baseline. Some engines like more, some less. That's also dependent on your location, type of fuel available, and application. But again, it's usually a good starting point. If you exceed that number, time to curve the dizzy
 
66fs said:
Go back to the stock intake and Carb. Both the carb and intake are power losses compared to stock.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, but this is incorrect. The Streetmaster. Read the name. While it may be a single plane intake, for the street, they were very good in their day. Probably close to the best. The only other one I could think of that might have had it beat would have been the Edelbrock DP4B, but I believe they were extremely close.

The Streetmaster loses much less down low in comparison to most any other single plane, while increasing the mid range and top end power a good bit. IMO, it could use more carburetor, but before you do that, I suggest getting everything in proper tune with the carburetor and ignition timing optimized.

That way, you at least have a baseline. My guess is you will be quite surprised once it is all in tune good. While the carburetor is a little small, that is actually desirable for the street, rather than too big. I say put the super tune on it and see what you got.

Just my opinion.
 
You say you just want a cruiser. The single plane manifold is killing you.
You need to go to a dual plane manifold,for the street.

If it was my car...
Carb...Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS #1812
Intake....Edelbrock Performer RPM #7186
This setup will give it some street manners,with some real get yup.:burnout:
 
Yes on the DP4B. I ran one back in the 70s with an AVS on my 383. I chose that manifold over the Streetmaster and the Tarantula High-Rise which were popular back then.

I agree with getting the timing and tune set right before changing parts.
 
Look, I'm not gonna argue. Don't take my word for it. Look up "Hot Rod Mopar Intake Shootout" and see for yourself. Are there better intakes? Sure. But you already HAVE that one and it IS a good improvement over stock. The intake runners are curved and that increases their length. That BOOSTS bottom end torque in comparison to most straight runner single planes. It's been a well known fact that the Streetmaster, while a single plane, IS a good intake manifold for a street engine. Very similar to the old Torker 383, it breaks the rules. It loses only a little down low. It does not KILL bottom end. It's just not true. Here's the link.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html

Look at the Holley Street Dominator for comparison. The two intakes are VERY similar. They just happened not to test the Streetmaster. It averaged 427 LB FT of torque from 3100 to 5000. That AINT killed on the bottom. This is as close to an argument as I have come in a bit. Believe what you want. There's the proof above.
 
RustyRatRod said:
IMO, it could use more carburetor, but before you do that, I suggest getting everything in proper tune with the carburetor and ignition timing optimized.

That way, you at least have a baseline. My guess is you will be quite surprised once it is all in tune good. While the carburetor is a little small, that is actually desirable for the street, rather than too big. I say put the super tune on it and see what you got.

Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Agreed...this thing may wake right up with some good timing and freshened up carb. After you get it all dialed in and determine you want more, then you can get a bigger carb and better intake. A 750 vac sec would probably work really well on a mild 383
 
And look at the little Ede Performer RPM,(named on the whole)the best single 4 barrel intake on the engine.
 
definitely dont go back to the stock intake. unless you want to plop and extra 50 pounds back on the front end of the car.

your current intake is probably fine (unless it's cracked or something).

i'd recommend getting a rebuilt carb. the documentation that comes with the carb will probably show you which hose connects to which port, and which ones should be capped off.

like the diagram here: [ame]http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10219-3rev4.pdf[/ame]

it clearly shows where to connect the PCV, the distributor vacuum advance, and the accessories port at the front for vacuum operated stuff (air grabber hoods, etc.)

i'd recommend getting a rebuilt carb that comes with documentation so you can do it without a lot of guessing :)

i'm not sure the best model carb to fit that intake however.
someone else make a carb recommendation. you can get rebuilt holleys or rebuilt thermoquads. (i used a rebuilt thermoquad and got pretty darn good mileage)
 
PopDart, if you want to upgrade the carburetor, this would be a good one.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=247213&highlight=Holley

650 vacuum secondary Holley. Spread bore so it will bolt right on. And it's cheap.

I still recommend maximizing what you have before changing. At least though, with that 650 you will have something to upgrade to when you want to.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Look, I'm not gonna argue. Don't take my word for it. Look up "Hot Rod Mopar Intake Shootout" and see for yourself. Are there better intakes? Sure. But you already HAVE that one and it IS a good improvement over stock. The intake runners are curved and that increases their length. That BOOSTS bottom end torque in comparison to most straight runner single planes. It's been a well known fact that the Streetmaster, while a single plane, IS a good intake manifold for a street engine. Very similar to the old Torker 383, it breaks the rules. It loses only a little down low. It does not KILL bottom end. It's just not true. Here's the link.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html

Look at the Holley Street Dominator for comparison. The two intakes are VERY similar. They just happened not to test the Streetmaster. It averaged 427 LB FT of torque from 3100 to 5000. That AINT killed on the bottom. This is as close to an argument as I have come in a bit. Believe what you want. There's the proof above.
Click to expand...
I have already reviewed that article . . . some good info. I wished they had the Streetmaster so I could have compared a little better. Thanks for your information, it helps. Rog
 
Thanks all for your input. Again, I want my Dart to be almost as reliable as a daily driver, to the point I can hop in and go anywhere without issues. Not looking for performance enhancements as much as reliability without a lot of maintenance issues or wondering if it will start at the local cruise-in. Thanks Rob, you were the first to give me any info on that Streetmaster. I'm leaning (for right now) in rebuilding the Holley, leaving the Streetmaster, tune it, and like most of you said, seeing what I got. Thx a bunch, I'll post progress. :thumblef: Rog
 
RustyRatRod said:
Look, I'm not gonna argue. Don't take my word for it. Look up "Hot Rod Mopar Intake Shootout" and see for yourself. Are there better intakes? Sure. But you already HAVE that one and it IS a good improvement over stock. The intake runners are curved and that increases their length. That BOOSTS bottom end torque in comparison to most straight runner single planes. It's been a well known fact that the Streetmaster, while a single plane, IS a good intake manifold for a street engine. Very similar to the old Torker 383, it breaks the rules. It loses only a little down low. It does not KILL bottom end. It's just not true. Here's the link.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html

Look at the Holley Street Dominator for comparison. The two intakes are VERY similar. They just happened not to test the Streetmaster. It averaged 427 LB FT of torque from 3100 to 5000. That AINT killed on the bottom. This is as close to an argument as I have come in a bit. Believe what you want. There's the proof above.
Click to expand...

I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one. Never liked the Streetmaster manifold. Although you are probably right, that with Tuning that combination should get Popdart where he wants to be with his car. The Holley Street Dominator is one of the best single plane manifolds, not comparable to the Street/RV Streetmaster other than looks. The Streetmaster is only good to 5k per Edelbrock. A stock cast iron 68 up manifold is more comparable to the DP4B or a Performer good to 5.5k. As for weight a 68 "301" cast iron manifold weighs 36-38 pounds. A Streetmaster weighs about 15 pounds, about a 20 pound difference. Not that I have seen a performance comparison between a stock manifold and a Streetmaster, I doubt it would top a 68 up manifold anywhere in the rpm range.
 
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