383 to 496 stroker, streetable?

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Derileek

Derileek

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has anyone done a streetable 383 to 496 stroker and how has it worked out? what would be a good combo? etc. or should i just stick with the 383?
thanks in advance
 
Streetable as long as the cam isn't too wildand compression isn't too high.The piston will sit at top dead center longer.you will have to tak this into consideration. What is that stroke 4.25?
 
ya the stroke is 4.25" the compression will be just under 10:1
 
P.M. "moper" about this. He answered a thread on this question a while back and there is a problem with the piston using this long of a stroke.
Can't remember correctly but something like that. It would effect streetability.

You may want to consider a 438 instead, 440 crank and rods into the 383 block, mains cutdown on the crank of course.
 
Iv always thought, why not a 4.15 crank in a 383 to make a 475?
Pretty common in 400's to make a 500, with reasonable results?
 
probably the piston tdc dwell issue i was refering to. Post this question over on diamond back engines to Damon as he,s built a lot of strokers and talked me out of a 4.25 stroke. he used to be a tech for comp so he has a lot of knowledge on this
 
redfastback said:
I also thought that the 383 to 496 required dry sump oil system...
Click to expand...

youre right. the crank hits the pickup in the stock location. oilling mod is a good idea anyway on a build like this. not dry sump but external pickup
 
For me the issue is piston height. You have the biggest bore, and the shortest piston in one combination. It's so short there is no skirt really (less than 1 1/4" compression height), and the piston pin bore goes thru the oil ring groove. On a racing engine, that's no issue as the mileage is low and disassembly is fairly regularly done so piston and wall wear can be kept track of. On a street engine, you really can't run a tight quench because if you do, the pistons wear a small amount and then they rock in the bores (all engines do this at TDC when the piston changes direction) and it's very easy to hit the heads with the pistons. Less quench means more tendency to detonate too. If it were up to me, I wouldnt go past 3.915 stroke and put a set of heads that will feed it well. It's less of a hit on the tires, can run the factory oiling system (including the indented pan for the idler arm), will perform very strongly with a set of mildly ported RPMs or SREZs and will last forever.
 
would a 413 crank work the same as using a 440 crank? or are there any differences
 
Any RB crank will need some work to fit in. The mains are the wrong sizeand the counterweights (diameter) are usually too large. It's the same money for a better crank that drops in from 440Source.
 
i think for now im just going to keep it a 383 to save money. maybe i will build a stroker motor in the future
 
Derileek said:
i think for now im just going to keep it a 383 to save money. maybe i will build a stroker motor in the future
Click to expand...

IMG-20160426-WA0003.jpg
 
4.25 stroke gives 1.32 CH with a 6.535 rod, 4.15 stroke with the 6.760 rod give 1.12 CH.

496 on a 383 block would be great with right gearing, cam etc. Huge torque, no need to spin the Hell outta it. S/F....Ken M
 
I have listened. I have 3 383,s one 12.5 2 stock. 496 I want y . I have CK 1. stroke 2. alittle over Bore. Ashort stroked 383 any time will with a short track cam cant B out ran,,..
 
a 383 was the ..l first hi po mopar had even a 2 4 intake I have only one. o I still have 2 6-packs my real std. trsns 340 w csrbs stock . and a manifold for us a 363. by
 
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