4 link suspension adjustments???

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73 pro street

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Is there anyone in the Wrentham, MA (02093) area that can help me out with tweaking my 4 link suspension? It needs some adjusting for rattles & sqeaks and general drivability problems.:(

thanks
 
Nowhere close... But if you can explain the problems I might be able to help. and some more info about the 4-link in question would be helpful.
 
1st a little background: the valiant is fully tubbed to incorporate the use of huge mickeys(33x21.5x15) and it was previously raced. I now drive it on the street. I removed the 4:88's and replaced them with 3:91 cone posi complete pumkin unit. prior to this removal there were no issues with rubbing or sqeaking. As I am unable to turn a wrench any longer I had another person do the work. He removed the panhard bar to replace the spherical ends thats where things went bad. If I grab the panhard bar with both hands I can rotate it a total of 1/4" or so?? Is this normal? I am also not sure if it is just an adjustment problem as it was fine before. I'll get some pics up asap for clarification.
thanks everyone for your input:)
 
you can twist it 1/4 turn? or you can move it like up and down? is it sloppy? what kind of rod ends did he use? it doesn't sound like they are sealed. the best ones are Teflon, nylon or delrin sealed and wont let dirt or crud in. This is especially important on a street driven car. Did he adjust any of the lengths of the links or the bars? That can cause problems.
 
i hope these pics will help you solve my problems:cheers: ..... pics are located in my gallery


thanks again for your help
 
I hate to tell you this, but you have a ladder bar setup and not a 4 link under your car. Ladder bar setups are typically not adjustable and are not that great on the street from what I hear. The rod ends in your picture are heim joints and are designed to twist the 1/4" that you are talking about to avoid binding. Looks to me like the rear suspension was set up for racing, so there is no urethane bushings to soak up vibration. So you feel and hear everything. I would jack up the car and crawl under it and look for worn out bushings and rod ends. That could cause more noise and drivablity issues.

One question that I have is about the picture of the panhard bar. Is there weight on axle in that picture? If so then you have issues because the panhard bar should be parallel to the rear axle to avoid lateral movement in the axle as the suspension cycles. This will cause your rubbing and binding.

Here is a picture of a prostreet parallel 4 link that I have on my dart. It is still fairly noisy with the urethane bushings at every joint. I hope this helps.

4link1.jpg
 
Baddart is right. That is a ladderbar setup and other than the panhard rod being mounted on an angle I can't see anything weird.

What are the problems you are having? rattles and squeaks are causes by the rod-ends. which you cant fix unless you change to something else.
The panhard bar will cause the axle to move side to side when it goes up and down which can be felt by the driver. just level it out to fix that.

hope this helps!

Oh here is the link to his pics

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=2321
 
I hate to tell you this, but you have a ladder bar setup and not a 4 link under your car. Ladder bar setups are typically not adjustable and are not that great on the street from what I hear. The rod ends in your picture are heim joints and are designed to twist the 1/4" that you are talking about to avoid binding. Looks to me like the rear suspension was set up for racing, so there is no urethane bushings to soak up vibration. So you feel and hear everything. I would jack up the car and crawl under it and look for worn out bushings and rod ends. That could cause more noise and drivablity issues.

One question that I have is about the picture of the panhard bar. Is there weight on axle in that picture? If so then you have issues because the panhard bar should be parallel to the rear axle to avoid lateral movement in the axle as the suspension cycles. This will cause your rubbing and binding.

Here is a picture of a prostreet parallel 4 link that I have on my dart. It is still fairly noisy with the urethane bushings at every joint. I hope this helps.
yes the car is sitting on the ground. if i measure the rear tire clearence from wheel well inside to the outside face of the "mickeys" ...passengers side has about 1.25" and the drivers side has bearly 1/2"to face of tire. the person removed the panhard bar to replace the spherical ends (and i assume he didn't mark the thread engagment properly) causing everything to go off kilter?? there are many adjustment holes in the brackets just not sure which set of holes to start with(no more racing, just street crusing. getting too old!!)
 
yes the car is sitting on the ground. if i measure the rear tire clearence from wheel well inside to the outside face of the "mickeys" ...passengers side has about 1.25" and the drivers side has bearly 1/2"to face of tire. the person removed the panhard bar to replace the spherical ends (and i assume he didn't mark the thread engagment properly) causing everything to go off kilter?? there are many adjustment holes in the brackets just not sure which set of holes to start with(no more racing, just street crusing. getting too old!!)


Yeah it sounds like the Panhard bar is set wrong.. Adjust it so the tires are even, Make sure it is level and see how you like it. As far as which holes... I believe the higher the bar is off the ground is, the less it will roll, but it will be a little more squirmy. Not completely sure though.. About axle height is a good median.. and a couple inches either way won't make much difference for a street driven car.
 
I would take it to a welder and have them fabricate up brackets to get this panhard bar level or the car will never drive properly. Once it is level you will be able to center your rear. This is very important.

Panhard bar.jpg
 
i would take it to a welder and have them fabricate up brackets to get this panhard bar level or the car will never drive properly. Once it is level you will be able to center your rear. This is very important.
thanks to everyone for their help, its going to a chassis shop in the morning for a look-see and hopefuly a quick adjustment!!!!!
 
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