408 aluminum head choice for 500Hp

[raymond]

So how much power is the engine in ou812's link above giving up with that hydraulic roller?

With a solid "street" roller with approx the same specs as the one Brian used there would very little if anything in it. Virtually all the dyno programs inputs don't differentiate between hydraulic roller and solid roller, why do you spose that is? I will admit if you have a VERY serious engine that makes power at high RPM a solid roller is a better choice.

It would be interesting to get Brians views on this 'leaving 100 HP on the table statement'

 

[moparcolt]

Just built a 9.5 to 1 Street motor, magnum 360 with a hydraulic roller and edelbrock performer RPM heads for a friend, runs great. should make 425 HP easy.
I don't see why you would need to drop the compression so low?

Chris

 

[moper]

With a solid "street" roller with approx the same specs as the one Brian used there would very little if anything in it. Virtually all the dyno programs inputs don't differentiate between hydraulic roller and solid roller, why do you spose that is? I will admit if you have a VERY serious engine that makes power at high RPM a solid roller is a better choice.
It would be interesting to get Brians views on this 'leaving 100 HP on the table statement'

I hope he adds his opinions too.
As far as mine.... I said "upwards of". Not "100hp". As I've said, not every engine will leave that much, and I'm sure some could find more. You're also placing 100% of the gain on the camshaft. It's not just the camshaft but rather the setup and the amount of re-engineering for the solid roller that "finds" power and rpm. Stuff like additional static compression and higher cylinder pressures, fixing as best one can the poor lifter angles when the block is bushed, alleviating some of the pushrod angle issue, the cam lobe design, the lack of lifter compression absorbing lift early in the lift cycle, and a possibly lighter valve spring pressure requirement all add up to more power.

On the dyno sim remarks... I don't "suppose". I know that it's because most dyno SIMULATOR programs couldnt tell you the difference between 7° more exhaust duration at .100 lift and a ham sandwich. Simulators take a curved lobe shape and turn it into straight lines in order to make calculations based on valve position. They average cam shapes, flow values, and manifolding science in order to plot a pretty little line and convince people to buy product. Put the engine on a dyno to get closer to truth, or preferrably in a car and run it down the track to get solid reality.

Now on the camshafts - Solid roller lobes do not have "exactly the same" shape as a hydraulic roller. You are correct in that an identical lobe with a solid body lifter would make the same power. It would carry the power curve to a higher rpm too, and not need as much valve spring to do it. But if a builder spends four figures of your money on what I believe is properly prepping the block and buying all the required hardware for a solid roller, and then specs one that is similar to a hydraulic profile, or simply doesnt take advantage of what it lets him do, you really spent money with the wrong guy. The power will come from taking advantage of everything I mention. It comes from what a solid roller profile enables a builder to do as a result of running one as opposed to a drop in hydraulic roller.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Eddy's out of the box are not that great. can't expect to them to be all good and just bolt them on...thats where they get there shitty rep...its the additional things people gotta pay to have them gone through is what they dont like....I'd go with the eddy heads myself, maybe order them bare, and have Brian @ IMM engines (located in Cali), or Shady Dell, build them up real nice for you.

here's a the links to there shop, you can order the heads from whoever you choose...they both know their mopars!

http://www.shadydellspeedshop.com/edelbrockheads.htm

http://www.immengines.com/

I wouldn't let Ryan at Shadydell from port Matilda touch my Briggs&stratten flat head without valves. They fly cut my pistons through my Batten heads with a stem cutter . They Charged me for a CnC flycut. They don't even have one there. I gave them my old bridge-port Mill It was wore out but it was better then their Harbor Frieght Drill press. I made them buy me a every piece. They stood behind their mistake. But only because I had pictures and reciepts for everything they did. Lucky me. The only thing I saved from my motor was the timing cover and the valve covers. even the intake and the oil pan was shot. Rocker arm shafts looked like Bananas. Mine was the second that week. A sprint car motor was destroyed that same week. This was the best. They dynoed my motor only 593 and fell of at 7200 . They broke both ears off of the block trying to hit the pins front. They broke one and then instead of looking into why it broke. They broke the other. Then they realized you can't hit them front like a SBC because they are stepped. This happened at Ryder Race engines. Where I made them dyno my motor after the second build because of metal and other issue's I found.

Information? Maybe
Hands on? not a chance
Buying Parts ? Only if dropped shipped


Go with Indy 360-1's . They had to buy me same or better heads that they destroyed and the only better LA heads with up to date parts available are Indy's. My motor sees 8000 all the time and had my recall show 9300 to members on this site after a rolling John Force style Tire melt at a local show. They didn't touch anything on my new motor. Dave at HTA. Home of the Hemi hunter did my current motor. and all motors since.

Go Indy for power and reliability at the RPM's you want to turn.