408 Stroker

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The carb is big issue, I use the Holley Avenger 870 and it makes great power 520 hp and 540 tq with 10.5 cr, eddy performer air gap, tti headers, and rhs magnum heads with mild port work. It runs rich at idle so may be little much for daily driver. There is no bog or delay so it runs smooth.
 
scampmehard said:
I was think 1 7/8 for future use but how much hp wil 1 3/4 be good for?
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I think 1 3/4 is good up to around 525 or 550, but could be wrong. Crackedback would know better. What you really want on the street is torque, and the larger tube headers might cost you some good usable street torque.
 
Just my 2 cents, but with those heads you don’t need 1 7/8” headers…I would go with 1 ¾. On that same note, don’t get sucked into the carb hype. Try yours out, tune it, and then BORROW a 950 from someone and see if your car likes it…it might work well, it might not have any gain. The reason I say this is my friend just went from a 750 demon (the one with the changeable sleeves) to a tuned 950. His car ran 6.58 before and ran 6.58 after…his car runs EXACTLY the same number, but his wallet is WAY thinner now. I felt bad because I thought it would speed him up too, but it didn’t. This is why I’m keeping my “frankensteined” 750 dp on my car for now…it’s running high 10’s in 90+ degree heat, why fix it if it isn’t broke.
 
scampmehard said:
the cam is not hyd it is a soild/roller it was grind to match the Big mutha thumper specs. Im still waith on my build **** for exact details they told me the way the port and polish is they gasket match and cut out all the metal they can as possably aloud. The carb was just one they has sitting around it is not the carb im going with..
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Ah. Gotcha. Both the "ground to same specs" and "port and polish is they gasket match and cut out all the metal they can as possably aloud" comments make me uneasy. Get all the information you can on what they did, and the cam card. "Ground to the same" more than likely isn't the same, just similar published figures, and no porter that has some skill would say that and actually mean it. If they did a "full port and polish" they should be providing you with a flow test for the work.
 
fishy68 said:
Just because one makes that power doesn't mean all will, as in the case with the OP's engine. If they are all that good why doesn't his make 550 hp? It's all in the combination that's why. Sometimes you get lucky and hit the nail right on the head and sometimes you hit it off the side a little. Sometimes you miss it all together.
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Agreed. But you certainly can't make that much HP with a "gimmick cam". The cam is a big part of the "combination".
 
So how do i prove that comp cam ground it to the right specs
 
scampmehard said:
So what all do i need to get you guys. How do i make sure its a cam that comp did.
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The cam card! It will have all the specs of your particular grind, including valve timing (@ .050" and .020" for a solid roller), gross valve lift, lash settings, lobe sep and any special instructions such as small base circle.
 
Ok here the scoop i talk to the guy that built my motor not the damn sales rep. There getting me a build sheet as soon as they put the new cam in and re-dyno it. The sales rep wrote down the wrong cam and got just the thumper not the big mother thumper thats were that went wrong.

Basic info i got on my motor is
1: Eddy performer rpm air gap port matched to the heads.
2: Rhs heads with 2.02 valves port and polished now the port and polishing is done by a local guy who been doing this for over 40 years he is well known in the community and stand by by the local muscle heads. This is why there no flow test they said if i was to get one done and it did not flow good they would make it right.
3: My cam is a compcam it is a steel core thats hyd/roll sent into comp to be ground to specs. I was thinking it was a mech/roller cause comp dont make a steel hyd/roll big mutha thumper is just cast they have. I called comp and spoke with them and do they do have a order in to have this done.
4: i have roller/hyd lifters with 1.5 rockers with roller tip on a roller shaft will i be able to adjust this to 1.6 toget a higher lift or no since there not stud mounted.
They mech told me once they put in the new cam and do a lil adjusting he knows ill be in the 500 range.
 
cam is too small, carb is ehhhh on the small too, but you should 'with the right cam' be making/capable of making 500 hp with it.

The small tube headers can work both ways...and the cam will dictate how much in each direction.
I'd start with the cam.
 
Sorry, I'm not in the best of moods right now but I don't care if Smokey Yunick or Bob Mullen did the heads. If you paid for "full porting", you should have a flow test. Period. Nevermind the reground, wrong spec camshaft.
 
Looking at how much torque that motor is putting outat 3000 RPM it should really pull!

Hey flyfish, is your rod mini-tubbed? If not what size are those rear skins and how did you get them to fit?

You have my by .60 in the 60'... but I am on 255/60 street tires.
 
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