416 Stroker not running well

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crugone

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Dear All ! I was building out of my 340 a 416 stroker engine. edelbrock heads , air gap, hughes engine stroker kit. Now i changed to a 750 holley double pumper and the engine is running on 8 HG vacum at idle 700 u/min. sofar sogood. Ignition is placed at 14 ° before OT. cam 237/242 108 °. Transmission Tremec 5 speed. From my current knowledge i checked more or less everthing but when i like to cruise the car is bugging and explosions in the exhaust system. The 4 mixdure srews are 1 1/2 turns out. The champion 12 heat range are solid black. Please let me know what to test or change many thanks
Martin from Austria
 

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WIth that small a cam it should be pulling double that vacuum at idle.
This should all be done with the vacuum advance disconnected from the distributor and the hose plugged.
Step one - up the initial timing to 18°.
Step two - Using a "dial back" timing light, or a balancer that's fully marked, or a timing tape on the balancer - Check total timing by slowly bringing up rpms until the timing mark stops moving - then go another 1000 rpm higher and note highest total timing. You should have something like 38-42°. You will need to adjust the centrifical advance slots to limit centrifical to 32°. Directions for this are online or in the instructions with the ignition.
Step three - Reset the idle mixture to highest vacuum level noted and idle speed back to 750 (it will have risen a bit with the extra initial timing).
Step four - take a new vacuum reading.
Step five - Take that new vacuum reading and: if it's over 12" - make sure power valves are both 8.5. If it's lower than 12" divide the number by 2 and install that in both positions.
Step six - reset idle mixture and speed, reconnect vacuum line to districutor, and test drive. My impression is the power valve(s) are opening at idle, and the mixture screws are out too far, but timing curve and adjustments should always be done prior to any carb work and MP ignitions are famous for being a mess out of the box - so check/address the timing first, then tune the carb.
 
Many thanks gentlemen for the very interesting tips and procedures. I will work on the list and get back with feedback. many thanks again and best regards Martin
 
Just a quick question to the power valve. in my holley carb which i used before ( vacum secondary ) i only changed the powe valve in the front metering block. do i understand it right that i have to change also the power valve in the second metering block !?
Also in case i not achive more then the 8 HG with pluged hose etc. could it then be a vacum leak !? thanks for input martin
 
I'd turn the idle up to the 800-850 range. 700 is pretty low.
 
Mopar has explained this very well but he missed the big one what is your jetting #sssss,after all has been adjusted as said,you may have to jet down. As for the rear power valve its only working when you nail the throttle.
 
...........As for the rear power valve its only working when you nail the throttle.

Unless the power valve is broke...then that would explain the black plugs, backfiring, etc.
 
Mopar has explained this very well but he missed the big one what is your jetting #sssss,after all has been adjusted as said,you may have to jet down. As for the rear power valve its only working when you nail the throttle.


Didn't miss it... just not part of this phase of tuning for me..lol. Once it runs well the jetting can be dialed in. With too much fuel going in jetting is just a guess.

OP - On the power valve - you are correct if the carb is a vacuum secondary there will only be one (front) power valve. But, you said a "Holley double pumper". That description means the primary and secondaries have an accelerator pump and mechanical secondaries. A vacuum secondary carb does not have a secondary accelerator pump. However, both vacuum secondary and mechanical secondary carbs have "dual feeds", which is a fuel line to each bowl. My guess is you're calling that a double pumper, which isn't technically correct and I got confused...lol.
 
moper i do have a double pumper 750 holley as it was recommended for a tremec transmission and light car like my cuda. i will go all your recommandations and give feedback. best regards Martin
 
Me still thinkssssssssssssss Jetting if the power valve is not toast.I run nothing but Holleys on all my cars,just a thought maybe someone installed the wrong metering block gasket.
 
hallo gents ! it starts to be funny. i went into the recommended points and changed first the float level which need adjustment also the metering block screws where of one turn. i was in big hope that this will now change the picture in my favour. i went to test the vacum and blocked all ports and start engine. the vacum went constantly between 6-10 hg. then i checked the timing and start from the beginning take of the head covers and search for the OT. i placed the new MP distributor in where i also restricted the slotes before. start engine and unbeliveable 55 ° on my timing light. what is funny i placed the finger when it was on OT a bit behind counter glockwise the first zylinder contact. it should be around the 14-18 ° at this stage. the engine idle at the current stage rough on 750-800 takes good gas but when i try to drive the car jumps around like a wild horse.
at this stage i havent changed the rear power valve and in the front i placed in the beginning the nbr. 4 power valve. i know it is hard to guess around but with all the tips i was sure that i will change to a good end but i am still on the start. thanks for further input. the fireing order is corect aswell checked it now couple of times.
many thanks again for the help.

martin
 
That carb, if it's a 4779 750DP, should run on that engine out of the box pretty good with no changes.

Get initial timing sorted out and start over. I would not make a single change.
 
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