440 swap

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i did a 69 dart /6 to 69 dart 383 driver
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Any advice on using a motor plate,front only, to do a bigblock/a body swap? How to prevent coolant leaks? Best ones to use? Etc. looking at going that route since Schumachers bit the dust. Mike don’t return emails,no phone,etc. thanks
Try purchasing Schumacher's from mancini racing
 
Toyotas and Hondas are a pain to work on, too- but that doesn't stop people...
Hopefully, you build it right to begin with, taking advice from people who've been there and done that, and "working on it" becomes more of a pleasurable pastime and less of a pain. PLAN IT OUT well enough ahead of time and enjoy it.
If you can pull off the swap, then it wouldn't be a pain to work on. When someone tells me something is difficult or can't be done I like to show them how to do it correctly.
 
I'm not sure why everyone seems to think Schumacher was the only game in town?
Depending on your K frame:
Engine Performance & Vehicle Customizing Products From Hedman | Hedman Performance Group
Engine Performance & Vehicle Customizing Products From Hedman | Hedman Performance Group
And other options are out there, too; if these don't cover your application. Not to mention that its not very difficult to mod your existing K frame to accept standard B/RB engine mounts. We did it all the time back before Schumacher even existed... Motor plates can be a bear on the street, although some will argue that point.
How does one modify a slant 6 k frame to accept 440 mounts? I’ve heard the k is strong enough but how do you do it?
 
How does one modify a slant 6 k frame to accept 440 mounts? I’ve heard the k is strong enough but how do you do it?
The easy way? Cut the motor mount "stands" off of the big block donor K frame. Cut the slant mounts off your K frame, leaving the steering box mounts untouched. Using the trans mount to locate your engine in the bay, weld in the big block stands. It'll take a little trimming and jostling around to get the engine situated properly, but just weld them in and reinforce as you see fit. In a nutshell, easy peasy.
Choice #2 is to cut and weld a combination of bits and pieces from your B/RB engine mounts and the lower parts of your slant 6 mounts to allow the BB to sit in the /6 saddles. There is trimming that needs to be done to the K frame in either case for filter/pump clearance, you'll have to test fit it a couple times until you feel comfortable with the install.
There's other ways, too- these are the easiest.
 
this is what i did to a /6 member to hang a big torque rb on . welded it up and braced it as well . as you can see the driverside mount has been modified for shoe's mounting setup .
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after grinding down the welds and burrs it got a couple coats of rustoium satin black . the re-enforcement kit was from firm feel steering products . we went with subframe collectors and frame corner boxing on the car body for a firm ride in a more door dart with a 500hp 500 fpt 727 gv od dana 60 4.10 s-track locker . big t-bars and rear suspension and sway bars . fun !
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The easy way? Cut the motor mount "stands" off of the big block donor K frame. Cut the slant mounts off your K frame, leaving the steering box mounts untouched. Using the trans mount to locate your engine in the bay, weld in the big block stands. It'll take a little trimming and jostling around to get the engine situated properly, but just weld them in and reinforce as you see fit. In a nutshell, easy peasy.
Choice #2 is to cut and weld a combination of bits and pieces from your B/RB engine mounts and the lower parts of your slant 6 mounts to allow the BB to sit in the /6 saddles. There is trimming that needs to be done to the K frame in either case for filter/pump clearance, you'll have to test fit it a couple times until you feel comfortable with the install.
There's other ways, too- these are the easiest.

why not use a motor plate and cut the mounts off for more clearance
 
why not use a motor plate and cut the mounts off for more clearance
Because the question from Saezell88 was "How does one modify a slant 6 k frame to accept 440 mounts? I’ve heard the k is strong enough but how do you do it?".
You can run a plate if you want to, but not everybody likes them on a street car. Clearance at the motor mounts usually isn't an issue. But that wasn't the question I was answering.
 
Because the question from Saezell88 was "How does one modify a slant 6 k frame to accept 440 mounts? I’ve heard the k is strong enough but how do you do it?".
You can run a plate if you want to, but not everybody likes them on a street car. Clearance at the motor mounts usually isn't an issue. But that wasn't the question I was answering.


I’m looking into swapping my duster to a 440 looks like it’ll be fun
 
How does one modify a slant 6 k frame to accept 440 mounts? I’ve heard the k is strong enough but how do you do it?
If I can find out how to send a photo ill show you a modified k member
 
I’m looking into swapping my duster to a 440 looks like it’ll be fun
Basically you make a relief cut where the oil pump would sit and then box it in. Schumacher instructions should be online basically the mods are universal for any aftermarket mounts
 
Basically you make a relief cut where the oil pump would sit and then box it in. Schumacher instructions should be online basically the mods are universal for any aftermarket mounts


I will check them out I also thought about a tubular k-member as well but don’t know if the accept factory control arms
 
Mancini sources from Schumacher, called the other day. They can’t even get them
Oh that sucks. Are you good at fabbing?
I'll send you the dimensions of the mounts & you could attemp it if your handy enough
 
Any advice on using a motor plate,front only, to do a bigblock/a body swap? How to prevent coolant leaks? Best ones to use? Etc. looking at going that route since Schumachers bit the dust. Mike don’t return emails,no phone,etc. thanks
Hey 'cuda620 if your handy ill send you the dimensions of the mounts & how to do it.
 
The easy way? Cut the motor mount "stands" off of the big block donor K frame. Cut the slant mounts off your K frame, leaving the steering box mounts untouched. Using the trans mount to locate your engine in the bay, weld in the big block stands. It'll take a little trimming and jostling around to get the engine situated properly, but just weld them in and reinforce as you see fit. In a nutshell, easy peasy.
Choice #2 is to cut and weld a combination of bits and pieces from your B/RB engine mounts and the lower parts of your slant 6 mounts to allow the BB to sit in the /6 saddles. There is trimming that needs to be done to the K frame in either case for filter/pump clearance, you'll have to test fit it a couple times until you feel comfortable with the install.
There's other ways, too- these are the easiest.
So I can weld rb mounts into the saddles of the slant 6 frame? Or will they need to be moved as per the trans requires
 
You cut the slant 6 saddles off your K frame. You weld on the ones you salvaged from the big block K frame. In effect, you are creating your own big block K frame. You use the trans mount to locate the assembly fore and aft, since the tranny mount location doesn't change no matter what engine/trans combo you run. You need to finalize/finesse the right/left location yourself.
The second option referred to reworking the engine portion of the bracket to fit the slant saddle, as another option to mount it. There are other ways, too- but all require at least a minimum of fabrication skills/ability.
 
So I can weld rb mounts into the saddles of the slant 6 frame? Or will they need to be moved as per the trans requires
If you find a donor a-body big block k member Use it don't cut it up. You'll still have to hack the slant 6 k member. But think about it this way also you get to make sure your k member is nice & strong, nicely detailed & there's also weight savings if you plan on running a deep oil pan & wouldn't have to run an a-body specific milodon.
That's if you can weld well
 
If you find a donor a-body big block k member Use it don't cut it up. You'll still have to hack the slant 6 k member. But think about it this way also you get to make sure your k member is nice & strong, nicely detailed & there's also weight savings if you plan on running a deep oil pan & wouldn't have to run an a-body specific milodon.
That's if you can weld well
Agreed- don't cut up an A body big block K frame. My assumption was you'd be scavenging big block parts off a B or C body.
 
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