46re trans build parts selection help please

-
P

Plato2k5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Messages
241
Reaction score
22
Building up my 46re for my jeep.

-I have 5 direct clutches going in
-Using all 15 springs
-Will set clearance of clutches at .060 - .075 (.010 - .015 per clutch)
-Get ride of the the wave snap ring and replace with desired thickness flat style

-Sonnax billet front cover
-Sonnax acumulator (no blocker rod) with the big outer spring only
-billet rear servo (shift super servo?) with HD spring and billet spring retainer and shimmed solid.
-HD band sturt
-Billet band anchor wedge

-front brass impregnated flex band
-rear red with oil grooving
-3.8 or 4.2 billet lever???

-tfod-3 transgo kit to make valve body full manual so I can run it without a computer
-orfice installed and tuned to clear up flare shift.

Now, can I add two springs to the sonnax front servo like they did on the old 727 to help with 2-3 flare?

Will a 3.8 lever out of my old 727 be better then the 4.2? Will the non billet hold to higher line pressure??


This is behind my 360 la block with EFI...around 420hp - 500 lbs torque (all estimated/calculated) No dyno numbers.

4.56 gearing, 39.5" tires. This gets abused. First gear will see 5,500 rpm up hill climbs in 4 low.

I would love to run a rigid front band, I just can't afford to spend $125 on that rite now. I have used the flex in the past and they worked out really well for me with no wear.
 
Yes you can add 2 springs to the front servo. i had to to clean up my 2-3 shift in my 47RH in my 95 12v cummins. i used the sonnax super servo & it really firmed up the 1-2 shift (didnt really need to make it firmer though! Just sold on idea of fully sealed servo) Call geroend transmissions (hes a diesel tranz shope & knows hes stuff with torque flights!) he will sell you a second spring that will go into the front servo (its like $12 bucks with shipping ish) along with the stock return spring. works awsome! I tried the old style servo set up it worked but can tell they leak like hell compared to the sonnax servo! both shifts got softer but 2-3 over lap was nill. I dont have part number for spring any more but ill see if i can find it.
 
Thanks for the response Hipo! I see a guy sells a billet servo for $125 on ebay that comes with both springs. Looking on Whateverittakestrans I see they have the inner and outer springs listed. They are good used take off parts. I was just going to order those. Also order the 15 springs for the front clutch as well.

Also should i prep the surface of the new steels? Take red scotchbright and scuff it up in a small wax on fasion Like you would brake rotors?
 
If the steels are new on new clutches there should be no need to "rough em in" I got my super servo from pact transmission parts. There is a guy selling better total seal versions of the old style front servo (up to 1971) that also has O-ring seal in the servo cover on the rod that holds on the band. Helps with the 2-3 shift from leaks. But it's the same size as stocker,the sonnax has 15% more surface area for 2nd gear apply. I'll get ya a pic of the dual spring set up for the later "load control" servo yer 46re has.
 
The kickdown band you want to use is the Raybestos Pro Series. Used to sell lots of these to a High Performance Diesel shop.
Be VERY VERY Cautious if you're going to take the overdrive section apart. The overdrive clutch spring is compressed, and unless you've got the PROPER tool you can do yourself a lot of harm when you start to take the OD apart. Transgo makes a good replacement spring.

For all your needs for HP/HD Diesel parts or any make transmission items you might want to check out www.tcsproducts.com . They manufacture just about everything you will need for your automatic transmission needs. They also manufacture the tool to take the OD section apart. You can phone them 1-800-960-1177, ask for Paul. Good guy and really knowledgeable. If you think they are too far away from you to deal with, ask Paul who their distributor is in your area.
 
I have the red sonnax cover with the bigger area.

I will look into the band.

Do I need to change the OD spring? I won't be using OD offroad, never tow, only will see cruise down the road with steady speeds.
 
No, you normally don't need to change the OD spring, but, I thought you might be thinking of changing the OD friction plates and also looking at the overdrive sun gear and the overdrive plantetary, along with anything else that is in the OD housing. Just want to warn anyone taking the OD apart on these transmissions, that spring is more than capable of doing you harm. One transmission builder I knew, even though he had the proper tool, failed to head the instructions of using the tool:-- Go slow when using it--, he didn't, went quickly and when everything let go ended up with a broken wrist.
 
I use a press & an old 9 1/4 truck pinion yoke just grind the outter ears off a little & it fits perfect in the bearing race! X2 on the o/d sun gear being pitted,havnt had one apart yet that wasn't worn.
 
I heard its a 800lb spring? I was going to see if the local trans shop could press it off for me. I could weld up a tool if need be for a press. Thanks for the warning! I am replacing all the steels and clutches
 
When you take the OD apart you need an alignment tool to line up the splines in the planet carrier and the over running clutch cam. The tool is like a cut down intermediate shaft that holds the 2 parts splines inline.
 
Ok Ty :)

How do the parts look and spring quantity and cleRance specs? I'm gonna run non billet 3.8 arm to prevent less overlap of 2-3
 
Also, is it worth upgrading to a billet aluminum spring retainer if I use all 15 springs?
 
I've never used one,not to say you shouldn't but havnt had issues in the past. I've also never all 15 return springs eather. I've adjusted shift timing via an orfice the restricts ammount of oil flow to the front clutch. (Similar to the .140 thou plug in the trans kits) i tap that hole for a 1/4 inch pipe plug (to make a removeable "jet"of sorts) & start the hole @ .120 & go bigger if needed.
 
how many springs do you use? I have the shift orifice in the hole.... I taped it with a pipe plug and adjust it buy enlarging it or making it smaller.

Just trying to get a list of what I need to do to make this thing work as good as I can.

How many springs?
How big of a bleed valve?

Funny story though with the trans go kit I installed on the 46re when i first put it in..... The instructions had me installing the orifce in the wrong hole....this was causing HORRIBLE bind. I would drive and the rear end would lock up for a second when I would shift from 2-3. Im sure that has to do a lot with why my direct clutches were wearing out already.
 
I think 12 is the most I've seen/put back in. All 15 would do it,all mods I've done have been based on 9-12 springs. I know my 47rh has 9 & i always favor the looser end of the spec for clutch clearance in the front clutch.i started with .100 hole in my old drag dart's 727 & ended up rite at .120 if i remember correct to make the 2-3 shift crisp & quick with no bind. the hole size has a lot of factors ex. max line psi,clutch clearance,band arm raito & servo return spring. I had my V/B down 3 times to get er rite.Hope that helps a little?
 
Ok so 3.8 arm, 12 springs, .015" x 5 clutches = .075" clutch clearance. Run a .120 hole in the orfice, and go from there. Dual springs on the front servo.

How much line pressure? I had mine at 135ish before I took it down to rebuild. I had the pressure screw backed all the way out, and the kickdown lever wired all the way back.
 
Thanks Hipo! Really appreciate the help. I just want this to be the last time I touch this trans in a while. Don't mind putting a little bit of money into it now if it will last. So I want to ensure I select the proper parts I need and get the clearances in line
 
So why the two different types of forward clutch piston spring? I need to replace mine as it has some gouging in it. I can see there is a year of 98 stamped on the back of the piston if that means anything.

Also can I use a 727 non lock up front pump cover on the 46re? Mine has grooves in it
 
Im not %100 on the front cover swaping out,but most non l/u stuff dont interchange to the best of my knowlage. I know the stator support is a no go but cant remember for sure on the cover for certin. Yer talken about the bellville spring correct? not sure of why they changed styles for sure but ive used more of the later style springs than anything. also you can get rid of the plastic spacer in there & use a steel one fro0m an older 727 too.
 
Looks like you cannot run a 727 front pump cover on the 46re as the diameter that houses the pump gears is smaller on the 727.

Oh nice! Thanks for the tip!
 
-Talked to a&a transmission and they said run 12-15 springs....didn't matter on what length.

-set clutches to .060-.070

-run 4.2 lever

-72 in. Lbs, back 2 turns on front band

-run their solid style front billet servo

-wider than stock red racing lined rigid band


Sooo....that's what I am doing. Now to tear into the overdrive unit. I built the tool, just need to build a press.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top