470 ci cooling system

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dantegray

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What is recommended for a 10.5:1 470 street motor (625-650hp) on pump gas? I was thinking adding the OEM water pump housing, 180-185 T-stat, Proform electric water pump, and summit 27x19 radiator.

The OEM pump housing needs to be cleaned and painted or is better to get a alumuim? I was thinking of the Hughes (PRW housing) and new CRV 30gph electric pump from summit.

Will a stock pump support this motor? Its cheaper...

I have read may post but cant find a clear answer to what to run.


Thanks
 
your better off using the aluminum water pump housing. it saves weight and dissipates heat better than cast iron. make sure you get a mopar housing and not a cheap knock off. i have read that they limit flow and cause heating probs. your fan/shroud is going to dictate whether it stays cool or not.
 
I will be running the Ford Taurus Big electric 2stage fan. just have to learn to wire it up...
 
The stock pump will be fine. Your biggest concern is a quality radiator of adaquate size.
 
The summit brand housing is decent and made in Canada, eh. I would avoid an electric water pump if you drive on the street. Champion makes some decent bolt on radiators, just don't use their shroud.
 
younggun2.0 said:
i have read in other posts that the 440 source castings have smaller water passages causing over heating issues. i could be wrong but im pretty sure they were the source housings.
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I have heard the same about 440 source, but maybe they fixed it??? If so I buy from them. Any review on the hughesengines PRW housing?
 
younggun2.0 said:
i have read in other posts that the 440 source castings have smaller water passages causing over heating issues. i could be wrong but im pretty sure they were the source housings.
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They had a bad run of castings early on but that's long since been straightened out.
 
What radiator is everyone running? vendor, size, part number?
 
we run Howe's, you have to notch the lip off the top of the frame rails and also open the core support but no overheating issues when its 110* and the A/c on.

We built a 528 race hemi for the street with A/C. used a 20" aluminum fin BB fan and short clutch/shroud, then the big radiator and your good to go. if you drive it when it gets cold out then you want to run a 180* thermostat, but its its warm weather only go with a 160, might even be able to run the 160 year round if it dosn't get to cool in the winter
 
dano said:
I would avoid an electric water pump if you drive on the street.
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Ok, gotta hijack cause I have been considering putting an electric pump on a street motor I will build. Why should they be avoided on street cars exactly?
 
/6 Matt said:
Ok, gotta hijack cause I have been considering putting an electric pump on a street motor I will build. Why should they be avoided on street cars exactly?
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well having a constant flow of water is actually better and more consistant, ive seen plenty of electric pumps on the street and work. i'll be curious to see what reasons you get other than burning out and cost.
 
I run a universal 27,5+19 universal draft NASCAR Griffin radiator in mine and a derale 16833 fan set up squeezed in place and can run one at 80* temp cruise aand have 190_195. Temps, turn on the other fan and pulled down to the Tstat of 180. First time I've ever had it this good. This just might cool m0y next engine at least good even with bigger cubes.
 
72BBSwinger said:
I run a universal 27,5+19 universal draft NASCAR Griffin radiator in mine and a derale 16833 fan set up squeezed in place and can run one at 80* temp cruise aand have 190_195. Temps, turn on the other fan and pulled down to the Tstat of 180. First time I've ever had it this good. This just might cool m0y next engine at least good even with bigger cubes.
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We were just talkin about all this in chat last night. I was trying to emphasize running quality components like you've outlined. I've seen all too many times people chasing cooling issues with supposedly good new pieces, only to find out that their chinkesium they threw on their car was the problem all along.

Not that all the chinese influx stuff is bad. It's just that it's so inconsistant, you may get a good one, you may not. While the Griffins and the like cost more, you're getting a much better product and will likely have zero trouble. There are simply some places you don't need to cut corners. After spending all that money on the investment under your hood, does it really make sense to try to protect it with something that might be inferior?
 
Im now thinking about getting a Champion Radiator, 'CC375' rated to 700hp. How tall can you go on a Duster radiator? This one is for the "b body" mopar and 3 core.

Just called Champion and its 3/4 x 3 tubes. Will this work with minor trimming and can I close the hood?

Radiator Dimensions:
Total: 22.25" tall (23.30” with cap) x 29" wide (with brackets) x 2.75" deep
Core: 17.5" tall x 26" wide x 2.5" thick
Inlet: 1.5" passenger side
Outlet: 1.75" driver side
Tanks: 2.75"
 
Just bought the radiator for $204 on Amazon... Wahooo!!!
 
im running a summit 26x19" universal rad. i built a duel fan shroud set up. im running duel 14" fans that pull 1680cfm ea. they are run off a derale duel fan controller. fully adjustable. drove the car for over an hour on friday in bumper to bumper traffic. i mean heavy traffic. went only 3 miles in little over an hour. temp would go to 180* then 2nd fan would kick on and drop it to 160*.







 
younggun2.0 said:
im running a summit 26x19" universal rad. i built a duel fan shroud set up. im running duel 14" fans that pull 1680cfm ea. they are run off a derale duel fan controller. fully adjustable. drove the car for over an hour on friday in bumper to bumper traffic. i mean heavy traffic. went only 3 miles in little over an hour. temp would go to 180* then 2nd fan would kick on and drop it to 160*.
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How did you mount it? Do you have any more pictures of your brackets?
 
i made the brackets. they dont bolt to the rad. they "craddle" it. the lower 2 mounts hold the rad. by the tanks vertically. the top mounts hold the rad. by the tanks horizontally.



 
Hmm, looks good and nice idea. Think I might have to copy something like that
 
805moparkid said:
well having a constant flow of water is actually better and more consistant, ive seen plenty of electric pumps on the street and work. i'll be curious to see what reasons you get other than burning out and cost.
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My thoughts on the matter exactly.
 
There is nothing wrong with using a electric water pump on the street, i use one on my 526 wedge in my a body and in the 3000 miles ive driven the car i havent had one problem, The mezieres units have a motor life span of over 100,000 hours. As far as a radiator is concerned get a quality piece like a be cool or griffin, the summit radiators are fine but i have seen them crack after several hundred miles, so I guess you get what you pay for
 
The bastard on Amazon did not have the radatior avalible, looks like I will be looking for another possibly 'be cool qualifier #35008, 19-1/4 x 28-1/2, 1' dual core universal or possibably equivilent in Griffin radiators.
 
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