Just some teaser pics of test fitting the engine to see what needs cut. As it looks, if I notch the pan a bit and possibly cut a bit out of the K-frame and then re-weld it with more of a square in it instead of the rounded section if need be. Then remove both of the motor mounts, it should fit pretty easily. I can't use the CAC from the truck since it is to wide and won't drop between the frame rails, so it won't drop down low enough to clear the hood. I also think I will not be able to use the hydro boost for my brakes. The P-pump is just to big. I wish I would been able to find the rotary VE pump that I wanted, because I think it would have more room, but I guess I will just have to strong leg it.
4bt 72 Dart
- Thread starter dusterbnb
- Start date
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67 prostreet gt
Well-Known Member
awesome project Im defintely subscribing to this
Thanks!!!
roccodart440
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You can cut that lip and weld the seam. But I'd also consider a QA1 K-member unit since the torsion bars aren't an issue for you.
67redcudavert
Well-Known Member
It may be easier in the long run to cut off the frame mount and start over. When I put the 6bt in my van that's what I did, cut everything off the K member and started fabbing stuff that worked with the diesel mounts.
Plus after looking at a couple of diesel pickups on the dealer lot I decided to add some extra structure to tie the K member to the frame rails.
Plus after looking at a couple of diesel pickups on the dealer lot I decided to add some extra structure to tie the K member to the frame rails.
Yes, I thought about the QA1 K-frame, and it's not over the top expensive. But, I'm not totally convinced of its strength with the weight of the engine. Also, it would be hard to pay for a new K-frame and then have to modify it. I did really think about it, but so far I decided to stick with the factory one, for cost and that I know it will hold the weight, as I talked to 2 people with many miles on their factory K-frames. But, thanks for the idea.
draginmopars
Well-Known Member
I did the same > 6bt in a Satellite
flipped some truck mounts to bolt to the engine mounts
welded the rest to the frame, ( can still remove the k-frame, eng will stay in place)
The two small pieces, may look slanted, but was needed to be for oil pan cleanance
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=329625
I did the same > 6bt in a Satellite
flipped some truck mounts to bolt to the engine mounts
welded the rest to the frame, ( can still remove the k-frame, eng will stay in place)
The two small pieces, may look slanted, but was needed to be for oil pan cleanance
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=329625
Wow, that's a pretty cool Satellite! I have been looking at 89-93 6bt truck mounts for the front. I'm not sure it I have the mounting holes in the block for the newer style mounts.
I haven't got to much farther, but I have got some parts and set the engine in the bay about were it should be. I'm going to have to do some finagling to get the intake, air filter, cac pipes, exhaust, alternator, and a/c compressor to all fit.
The trans. It does not seem much heavier nor that much bigger than a 727. It is taller, but not drastically. I will have to cut into the floor, but I don't think I'll have to make a whole new tunnel.
gilberttitan08
Mexican Hillbilly!!!
Man, that 4bt is coming out rad! Yeah, I have the same issues as well with pics. I rarely ever put them up cause of the photo issues. I wanna put a 4bt in my 75 dodge w100 clubcab. Getting parts little at a time. ;)
Yeah would be a great truck to put it in. I would like to put one in some kind of half ton Dodge, and put a military trailer bed on it. There are several motor mount kits that would make it easy to do, since it has a frame.
Cut a lot more than I I thought I would of needed to, and may cut more of the floor out to get the tail shaft up a bit more and the rear of the engine up to help clear the Pitman and idler arms and the center link. I also will probably have another center link made with a bigger loop and maybe an inch wider. I know that would move my pitman and idler arms out a half inch each, but I think it will be needed to make room.
I also got my 8.25 installed so I knew where the trans needs to be.
I also got my 8.25 installed so I knew where the trans needs to be.
I need to remove more of the hump up under the heater/air-conditioning foot vent, so that vent needs to be removed. I plan on using an aftermarket a/c system for a few reasons. But, what if I could get help with, or directed in the right direction, because I can't find it. But, were do I start to remove the foot vents above the trans hump. You can see were they are in the last posts pic. I am not sure if I have to remove the dash first. If so, I have seen on here that it is easier just to remove the glass, which I need to replace anyways (because some kid shot it with BBs).
I just need the trans to come up a bit more. To get the angle correct and the engine high enough for the pitman, idler, cross link to clear. I'll need to remove the dash eventually, to install a new dash pad and air unit. So, that many be what I need to do now, I'm just not sure where to start.
I just need the trans to come up a bit more. To get the angle correct and the engine high enough for the pitman, idler, cross link to clear. I'll need to remove the dash eventually, to install a new dash pad and air unit. So, that many be what I need to do now, I'm just not sure where to start.
I was gonna build a 4BT for my jeep once upon a time,But I heard the 4BTs rattle and vibrate a lot. Especially if you turn em up. Dunno,I'd like to build one still to run like a built up gas engine,and still get good mpg. Guess I need more research. Great idea though. Good Luck with it. I'll be following.
Good to see your progress. You think you could resize you pictures so we CAN see it? lol
Yes, it does vibrate a lot at idle, but as soon as it comes off idle it was smooth. I luckily got to drive mine home, so I have an idea of how it ran. One way to deal with it is to bump the idle up a bit. 2 is installing a vibration damper. 4bt's don't come with one. 3 is the motor mounts. Some people use liquid filled ones that help, or I have seen people drill holes in the square dodge ones to help them flex. 4 which is more drastic, but is what plan on doing as well as the others. Is to balance the rotating assembly. They are not balanced front the factory since they don't rotate at high RPMs. That helps out a lot I have read. There are many kits out there for Jeeps. If I had a Jeep, it would have a 4bt in it. The 4bt swaps web site has all you need to know about doing it.
Thanks! Also, I'm sorry about the pics, but they work for me. If I click on it, it pops up bigger. But..... I am only using my phone, and that maybe why they don't pop up good for you. Since they may be formatted how ever my phone does it. Also, I'm not sure if I'm loading them correctly anyway, since it is only allowing me to post one at a time.
Oh you will definitely love it. You will probably have to go to a higher rearend gear though, so you a can keep the RPMs low and not have to drive 50 down the highway. My goal is to be able to run 80mph at around 1,800rpms for fuel mileage. I drive to KC MO a lot, which is a 219 mile one way trip. So, I want the best MPG as I can get. Once you start getting up over 2,000rmps it starts eating more fuel. Because, at that point in the pump is tuned for power. So, it is fueling more.
Having a big block in that truck already is nice, because you will not need to change the stiffness of the suspension, since it weighs close to the same.
Also, I think I may have figured out what to do with my steering dilemma. I found someone on here that installed rack and pinion steering on there duster, and it makes a ton of were I need it.
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