5.9 magnum swap

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5.2jeepyj

5.2jeepyj

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So just finished freshing up a 99 5.9 to drop into my 65 dart. leaving it efi and obd2. Ive done numerous obd1 swaps into jeeps and been studying the wiring for the obd2 so I'm confident I can accomplish this. picked up ac compressor tonight wich was last eng component needed so did a trial fit of the shaker hood scoop base meant for a 70 challenger and best thing is it clears everything on the magnum engine :blob: finish getting engine compasrtment finished and in paint hopefully be dropping it in near end of month:cheers:
 

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I love the carb air cleaner I have on mine, folks scratch their heads...then I point to the injector rail and the funny looks continue :)

I've said it before and I'll say it again. If I'd have known how easy it really was, I'd have done it years ago. I love fuel injection.
Congrats!
 
Is yours obd1 or 2? Did you buy a harness or rework one? How did you do your fuel system?
 
there are numerous ways to build a fuel system, the easiest way is to buy a tank with pump in it, then route the lines via the correct filter /regulator assy to either the hard line, soft line or soft line up to factory flex line.

While this is not the cheapest way, it does get you powder coated tank, fuel baffles and the correct factory style pusher pump with correct pressure. Lots of guys have just strapped pump on frame rail but you get what you pay for.

we have fuel line kits for all the different systems as well as the tanks. Our line kits are all USA made and around $150...you wont find a better deal on line kits. We also sell Tanks Inc tanks with pump, sender, straps for about $500 if thats in your budget. Cheaper than Scummit.

Otherwise, you will have to piece together stuff from here and there or pay closer to $250 for line kit usually with wrong regulator for magnum(LS vette regulator is wrong pressure for magnum). pm for info or look us up at magnummopar...
 
Yea I'm a disabled vet on a fixed income nowadays so Im using most the fuel system from the 99 Durango Thant's donated all its wiring and ecm. Already have pump module installed into stock tank and the flex hard line from eng to frame I'll figure out the lines once eng is installed
 
magnummopar said:
there are numerous ways to build a fuel system, the easiest way is to buy a tank with pump in it, then route the lines via the correct filter /regulator assy to either the hard line, soft line or soft line up to factory flex line.

While this is not the cheapest way, it does get you powder coated tank, fuel baffles and the correct factory style pusher pump with correct pressure. Lots of guys have just strapped pump on frame rail but you get what you pay for.

we have fuel line kits for all the different systems as well as the tanks. Our line kits are all USA made and around $150...you wont find a better deal on line kits. We also sell Tanks Inc tanks with pump, sender, straps for about $500 if thats in your budget. Cheaper than Scummit.

Otherwise, you will have to piece together stuff from here and there or pay closer to $250 for line kit usually with wrong regulator for magnum(LS vette regulator is wrong pressure for magnum). pm for info or look us up at magnummopar...
Click to expand...

Nice.
 
If you managed to stuff factory pump assy into stock tank, you will NOT need a regulator as the factory pump has it built into the top of pump...You will need 3/8" FI male barb to 6AN for flex line and a 3/8 FI female for tank fitting. For a filter, you will need two more 3/8 FI female to 6AN. To put all that together, you will need 4 6AN straight push lock fittings and 6-8' of #6 hose. We can put that together for $125 including 2-3 day priority mail. USA made by guys that make Russell but in plain package. pm if interested. Evan
 
I installed a 2001 5.9l with a 92 518 od tranny in my 72.
I run 4:10 gears in an 8-1/4 with sure grip
Changed the computer and injectors to 95 and OBD1
Used a custom wiring interface from the Detail Zone.
Runs Extremely well.
 
a properly set up 8 1/4 will do just fine with non tubbed tire size. Unless you run slicks you should be fine up to about 400 hp,
 
magnummopar said:
a properly set up 8 1/4 will do just fine with non tubbed tire size. Unless you run slicks you should be fine up to about 400 hp,
Click to expand...

You probably better not tell that to a friend of mine with a Demon. He ran deep 11s hangin the hoops with slicks every pass for like 3 seasons and never broke a thing. He only removed the 8.250 when he upgraded the whole car for a stroker.
 
I'm stock width 8.25 no tubs gonna be running 255x50x17's its a one legger right now but been keeping my eye out for a limited slip and new gears. I know lots of guys running the 8.25 in there jeeps so I figured Ill stick with it for now tell I build my stroker later down the rd.
 
As I said the 8-1/4 is just fine. The rear end housing is out of an 80's Dippy with the diff out of an 80's van (in the van its called an 8-3/8). The reason for the dippy housing is it is 3" wider than the A body. I needed the extra width because I used 2003 Jeep liberty rims.
 
been thinking about this swap as well. if I have the factory ecu and wiring with the donor engine what will I need electrical wise to make it work in my 72 scamp?
 
scampy72
You would need fuel system(tank,pump,sender, line kit), a harness and a pcm flash depending on what year and what you are running for trans, emissions etc. We have everything you need, pm for email or shop phone # and I can give you a quote cheaper than our web site, we do special pricing for FABO guys. Evan
magnummopar.c
 
I have a 68, and want to avoid the look of fuel rails etc. does anyone see a problem running a 5.9 with EQ heads and a throttlebody fuel injection on a Air Gap manifold? Or am I just being stupid?
 
Staying flat hood here, though I might add the later style dual scoops.
 
throttle body injection would be a serious downgrade over multi port but its your ride. Why not just get a RPM AG FI, dont you know fuel rails are all the rage? Coolness factor has to be figured in, right?
 
Which way I go as far as engine will depend a lot upon the teardown and inspection of my current 340. I already have the carb version AirGap for that engine. Just thinking that between running a carb for years, and not knowing if there are hardened seats in the X heads that I stand a good chance of weighing between a full rebuild, or finding a 5.9 to put in its place since the 340 isn't original anyway. I was figuring that the ThrottleBody would be a step up from carb, while also getting a block designed for a roller cam, but knowing that I don't get the full benefits of individual port injection, also keeping the look of a 68, and not having to find a place to hide a control module. BUT say I decide fuel rails aint too ugly, where do I find the wiring info to wire up the module, & is there a complete list somewhere of what to salvage from a donor vehicle? Besides the fuel system, ie-sensors, wiring, etc. This will be connected to an 833 trans, is there concerns about internal balance 340 to external balance Magnum.
I didn't know there was an RPM AG FI for magnums.
 
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You could easily run FI Tech(example), use your LA AG, keep the true retro look while going modern in a stealthy way. If I went that way, ie "no rails", which I understand completely, I would get a 5.9 Mag short block, EQ LA heads, LA fromt cover, alt, etc. Use the Tanks Inc pump in tank with black lines and your current air filter and nobody would ever know it wasnt 340 car. It would be easy to do and not as expensive as rebuild on 340 and x heads done right...
Or you could do magnum with factory FI which would require 134 tooth flywheel with reluctor ring for your 833. The pcm(brain) can easily be installed under dash out of sight. When I build harnesses, they are very low profile, no big bundles of wire coiled up or huge fuse box, usually dont even put pcm in engine bay. Our fuse panel consists of either a 4 or 6 fuse Bosch panel 1x2 or 1x3 plus 2-4 relays, very easy to hide. As far as building a harness, best place for info or diagrams is a FSM downloaded from flea bay for $25 or used hard copy for $30-$100. You can also get a harness from us or hot wire already done.You can run stick pcm but should get it flashed to remove evap, second O2 and also any cam over about 208-210 duration.
 
My thoughts were either:
rebuild 340 w/EQ heads, Air Gap, retro roller cam, & big question -more stroke. OR,
What you said-5.9 Mag short block, EQ LA heads, LA front cover, Air Gap/FITech. & again the big question -more stroke.
Know of any torque/Hp curve comparisons between modern throttle body FI vs multi port? modern meaning the newer units on the market, not a comparison from the 80's or 90's. Is there enough of a difference to make me say "screw the look"?
Sorry about the hijack, I didn't mean to, but its related, so....
 
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