5.9 Magnum

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swedefish

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Went to pick up a 5.9 Magnum today.
This will end up in my former -66
B-cuda. My son and I made a trade, he got the fish and I got his bike a Yamaha xv1700 Warrior. I never got to build the fish and he want a US made car to enjoy. Anyway, the plan is to put a Vortech SC with a Fitech efi in it, and run it on E85.
 
Nice! We expect a full build thread over in the "Forced Induction" category.
 
We’ll do this build in two steps. First thing is to check the condition of the motor disassemble put some new rings and bearings, if the cylinders looks okey.
Then mount the supercharger and Fitech to get it running and learn about the efi system. In the future we’ll buy a 408 stroker kit with forged internals and increase the pressure of the SC, the goal is 12-14 psi. In between there will be some upgrading of the chassi and drivetrain. We’re really looking forward to start with the build. I’ve had contact with Bill Dedman whom I bought the bracket for the supercharger from. He told me about all the things he did during his install and he’s the one who inspired me to go ahead with the Vortech SC.
 
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View attachment 1715116565 View attachment 1715116566 Went to pick up a 5.9 Magnum today.
This will end up in my former -66
B-cuda. My son and I made a trade, he got the fish and I got his bike a Yamaha xv1700 Warrior. I never got to build the fish and he want a US made car to enjoy. Anyway, the plan is to put a Vortech SC with a Fitech efi in it, and run it on E85.

Sweet! Me and my litle woman just picked up one of those aswell,only difference is that ours is wraped up in a bunch of shiny black sheetmetal in the form of a 2000 durango:)

Looking forward to see that build:)
Unless you have already put in an order for the Vortech i have a Lysholm twinscrew that im thinking of selling for a reasonable sum of money if you are intrested in it,but its not as simple of an install and harder to hide so to speak.
 
Cool - but my opinion you guys should go for the hughes airgap manifold to keep MPFI and use a Megasquirt 3 for control, it will work great with boost and E85, you could even run a flex fuel sensor.
 
Take a good look at the crank and big ends on the rods.
The mag I got needed attention, crank turned, rods re-done.
The bores looked great, bottom end was soft, in hine-site, it would have been cheaper to build the 408 from the start.
 
Sweet! Me and my litle woman just picked up one of those aswell,only difference is that ours is wraped up in a bunch of shiny black sheetmetal in the form of a 2000 durango:)

Looking forward to see that build:)
Unless you have already put in an order for the Vortech i have a Lysholm twinscrew that im thinking of selling for a reasonable sum of money if you are intrested in it,but its not as simple of an install and harder to hide so to speak.

Nice, is it an R/T Durango? Those are not easy to find here in Sweden.
I’ve got a Vortech kit on the shelf that I bought for a 4.6 Mustang that I had some years ago, never got to install it and now it came handy to go with the fish.
Been doing some research on how to plan the build. If we’re going for 12-14 psi the best would be to get the cr somewhere between 8-8.5:1 probably closer to 8.5:1. For what I understand if the cr gets to low it’ll be slugish on low rpm due to the centrifugal SC.
We’ll go with Icon forged 20cc dish piston, eagle forged crank, hellfire rings, melling high volume oilpump, arp bolts both for heads and crank, mls headgasket. Have the piston deck height .02 below deck. Yet to find out is a nice camshaft. Haven’t decided yet on the heads. At first I was looking at a stroker kit but all of the kits I found was sold with hyper pistons and allof the motorgurus recommend on not to use hypers with SC engines.

About Hughes air gap and Megasquirt,
Since we only bought the motor and don’t got the rest of the wiring and ecu from the donor, is it possible to make this work anyway?
 
You can get forged dish pistons with stroker kits, I think you need to start calling some parts distributors and pick what fits your build.
 
Yes, on the Megasquirt you could even use it to run a bone stock engine. They give you a lot of options, I use it to control a 340, so I don't have the OE Magnum style crank sensor (which you may not want to use either depending on the transmission you are using).

You could go as basic as running a batch fire system and using an 80's M-body locked out distributor and have the computer just control timing, which is pretty old fashioned in general. Then it could just run the injectors so you wouldn't need the MS3X or the MS3 pro.

In my case, I have a custom made 36-1 wheel on the crank and a stub of a stock 5.2 magnum distributor, where the 36-1 wheel is the crank sensor and the magnum distributor is the cam sensor so I have full sequential injection. I then use GM LSX coils for coil near plug so there is no worry about misfires or any distributor caps or rotors to wear out. All my other sensors are actually 90's GM pieces which are robust and cheap...and I use a Holley 1000cfm 4-barrel throttle body.

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You'll see the wiring comes through the firewall just inboard (to the right in this picture) of the heater hoses. The MS3 Pro is on the A-pillar behind the glovebox.

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You'll have to solder on a lot of connectors but it's really not that bad to do, just tedious. Been on the car for two years without issue.

Also, make sure you buy an AEM wideband since I had an innovate motorsports one and it seemed to be off and the car ran kind of funny.

"sloppymechanics" on youtube has a lot of info about forced induction, megasquirt, etc, even though most of it is for an LS engine, there won't be a ton of differences. If you had a setup like mine the difference would be the crank trigger and the firing order for 4/7.
 
Nice, is it an R/T Durango? Those are not easy to find here in Sweden.
I’ve got a Vortech kit on the shelf that I bought for a 4.6 Mustang that I had some years ago, never got to install it and now it came handy to go with the fish.
Been doing some research on how to plan the build. If we’re going for 12-14 psi the best would be to get the cr somewhere between 8-8.5:1 probably closer to 8.5:1. For what I understand if the cr gets to low it’ll be slugish on low rpm due to the centrifugal SC.
We’ll go with Icon forged 20cc dish piston, eagle forged crank, hellfire rings, melling high volume oilpump, arp bolts both for heads and crank, mls headgasket. Have the piston deck height .02 below deck. Yet to find out is a nice camshaft. Haven’t decided yet on the heads. At first I was looking at a stroker kit but all of the kits I found was sold with hyper pistons and allof the motorgurus recommend on not to use hypers with SC engines.

About Hughes air gap and Megasquirt,
Since we only bought the motor and don’t got the rest of the wiring and ecu from the donor, is it possible to make this work anyway?

Nope its a regular Durango with a 360, but i have to say that im surprised how good it runs:) However i saw that there was a R/T for sale for a long time with a leaking mainseal.

Ok thats a very good reason to use the centrifugal:)
I bet that thing will run real good, and i have to agree with using forged pistons with boost!
 
Does anybody of you guys or girls know the difference of the crankshaft between a -91 and a -96 years of shaft?
 
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