505" stroker

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famous bob

famous bob

mopar misfit
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wondering how many of u guys are running 500' r/b`s with, and w/o girdles, and how hard you beat or race the ones w/o girdles. going to replace the rear main seal on mine
( when my knee will let me) and was thinking about leaving the girdle off. seems like it will be a huge pain in the --- w/ the engine in the car! :poke:
 
I was running a 500" RB with 763hp on pump gas for 3 years of abuse on the street and the track with a 4 speed. 7,000-7,500 rpm shifts and 7000 rpm launches dumping the clutch at the track with slicks. I ran a Hughes girdle with stock main caps. When i tore the motor down the bearings looked brand new. In my opinion the girdle makes it very strong.
 
I've got (2) 505s and a 383-based 496 in use. All make between 550-600hp. One 505 has 3K on it, all street miles with a 4sp. One has about 9K on it with auto, it is raced 2-3 times a year, maybe 70 passes. The 496 has 12K on it, runs an auto, drives it like he stole it.
None have girdles. All have ARP studded mains. I still maintain if you need a girdle, you need a block.
 
bOb shingler said:
if you race it every weekend keep the girdle. driving is around, sell it.
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I had my block cryo treated, that and the girdle makes me feel good about the 440/505 set up. I`m just trying to figure out how to keep the girdle-main stud shims in order and not getting them mixed up when I drop the girdle to replace the rear main seal. (under the car , layin on my back)------------dread !
 
bOb shingler said:
get a piece of wood, draw out the mains in order, drive a nail in place of the studs, place everything in order.
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when you drop the girdle the shims will fall off the studs , don`t want to mix them . anybody can keep them straight if they don`t fall out all at once.
 
how about a bunch of welders magnets on the girdle. just lower it a tad and take the shims out then place them on the board, wait that won't work either. how about just be careful. how about have some one hold the board up against the studs (measure everything to be precise) then lower the girdle.
 
You can do the same with nails and a piece of cardboard box. Or an ice cube tray with one end marked "Front".
 
moper said:
You can do the same with nails and a piece of cardboard box. Or an ice cube tray with one end marked "Front".
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#-o
that will keep them in order once you have them, that`s a no brainer. whats going to happen when the girdle is being pried off and removed, (which will be a pain in the ***, since it`s glued on to the block w/ sealer to start with) and they fall off the studs before u can get ur hand up there to try to hold them ? some will come down w/ the girdle before you ever see them . if they would happen to stay on the studs, a guy could use a little grease to keep them up there. I`m thinkin ahead to what might happen. certainly don`t want to mix them up, as they are custom fitted to each cap stud.
 
bOb shingler said:
how about a bunch of welders magnets on the girdle. just lower it a tad and take the shims out then place them on the board, wait that won't work either. how about just be careful. how about have some one hold the board up against the studs (measure everything to be precise) then lower the girdle.
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no "someone" on this build, it`s been just me , except for the body and paint work.
 
I know this "AIN'T" what you wanna read, but why not pull the engine? It sure would be easier to work on with it out and upside down on the stand.
 
Seeing as I'm the last person in the world that would run a girdle - and I run rope main seals that don't leak - understand I'm only trying to help you here.

I have several strong extendable magnets that I use to go where my fingers can't. Any parts store has them sitting near the registers usually, or Sears (Craftsman) has them. If this is a race car with an engine plate, just pull it out...
 
500" Solid cam/roller lifter engine. ARP fasteners. 700hp. No girdle.

4500 miles of street beating and zero issues.

On my second set of tires already......they must be defective cause they smoke a lot.:burnout:
 
momoparman said:
500" Solid cam/roller lifter engine. ARP fasteners. 700hp. No girdle.

4500 miles of street beating and zero issues.

On my second set of tires already......they must be defective cause they smoke a lot.:burnout:
Click to expand...

pulling the engine is a ***** in a 68 barracuda. r/b w/ raised port heads, 2" headers, 7 ft ceiling, half assed engine hoist . ' not if I don`t have too! just recently out of the paint shop, living in fear of messing it up.--lol
 
momoparman said:
500" Solid cam/roller lifter engine. ARP fasteners. 700hp. No girdle.

4500 miles of street beating and zero issues.

On my second set of tires already......they must be defective cause they smoke a lot.:burnout:
Click to expand...

what kind off heads are u running? flow? cam ?
 
momoparman said:
500" Solid cam/roller lifter engine. ARP fasteners. 700hp. No girdle.

4500 miles of street beating and zero issues.

On my second set of tires already......they must be defective cause they smoke a lot.:burnout:
Click to expand...

second set of tires, they smoke a lot!----lol that`s bad for their health.
 
Started with blank Edelbrock Performer RPM heads.
Machining and porting was done by Hensley racing to their spec.
Head cc is 80.2 Don't have the flow numbers handy, but they breathe well.
I'm running 2" exhaust all the way starting at the headers.
Cam is Comp Cam and is a custom grind (Hensley Spec) but it's .576 lift in and .582 out.
Duration at .015 is .286 open and .292 close.
Duration at .050 is .248 in and .254 out.
 
Yea the smoking tires is a bad deal. I have worked hard to get them to drop the habit as it's not cheap.

Were down to only one or two smokes when I'm out....:burnout:
 
Procharged 496" raised deck.... ARP main & head studs. Low boost, pump gas at high altitude. 650-700hp... No girdle.
 
nitrojunkee said:
Procharged 496" raised deck.... ARP main & head studs. Low boost, pump gas at high altitude. 650-700hp... No girdle.
Click to expand...
heads are procomp knock off victors, cnc ported-raised port. flowed 352 @.0600, but didn`t go up much after that, should be kickas$ street head or low rpm race head. cam is a solid street [email protected] , .620-.628 lift. think it`s probly undercammed, but it is mostly a street car. fast 2.0 f.i.
 
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