535 supercharged first time start up?

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flathead31coupe

flathead31coupe

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After a rebuild new everything..was wandering if I should start it up to break the cam in ...with or without the belt on the supercharger....
 
I would think most people would break in the motor conventionally with a known 4 barrel carb only. See that it runs, time it, sort it then worry about the supercharger. Especially if the s charger is new yo the whole set up. Potential for Too many things to be wrong or require tuning with s charger
 
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I would run it in without. You have added ~100 cubic inches and have likely changed everything in the motor
 
At that level of engine, i'm really surprised you didn't go with a roller. That said, if the carb tune and timing were correct with the 440, i see no reason you cant maintain the 2.5k-3k rpm's needed. I'd run the belt because i could see all kinds of fuel distribution problems with out it. I am curious how the amount of boost at 3k would effect the ring break in. I have no idea, just a thought. Hopefully someone from the "boosted" thread will chime in. Might be a better place for this thread? Good luck with it, it's going to be a beast.
 
I would break it in with a single 4bbl.
 
Thanks! I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go at this point this weekend. I'm hoping to get her fired up whichever direction I choose to take. I know with the old 440 it fired right up and would set and run wherever I wanted with or without the belt
 
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So I went to the garage today and manually turned the engine over and brought the valves on the pasture side each set up to The closed position.. after going through the valves on that side, I have at least three lifters that are not pumped up that is I mean when the valve is closed I can push down on the rocker arm not very far. The picture shows the orientation of the rocker arms. I think they are in the proper orientation.

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With the stock oil pump I would run about 40 lb cold and about 15 to 20 lb when it was warmed up. So I took out the purple spring and put in a black spring. Now the pressure is about 60 cold and about 40 warmed up. The noise seems to be going away. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Cross fingers let's see what happens
 
I took the car out today for a short drive after it really got warmed up. The idle oil pressure is back down to 15 to 20 but the cold pressure is increased. It seems to be working like it. Should the oil pump. Still have the lifter or rocker arm noise when it cools down. I will check the rocker arm lifters again to see if they ever pumped up.
 
@flathead31coupe The system wouldn't let me delete the advertisement pics so I deleted the whole post and copied/pasted your text and brought it here....

So after getting this engine together I finally had time to fire it up. Started right up. Kept it about 1800 to 2000 RPMs varying it up and down
flathead31coupe said:
Thanks! I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go at this point this weekend. I'm hoping to get her fired up whichever direction I choose to take. I know with the old 440 it fired right up and would set and run wherever I wanted with or without the belt
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but was only able to do that for about 10 minutes or so. Temperature got up to operating temperature then I shut it off a flex plate bolt was hitting the inspection cover.. after I addressed that issue I was able to fire it back up and repeat the same process but still instead of leaving the plate off I clearanced it... But it was still rubbing a little. Not sure I shut it off again. Remove the plate. No issues. My question is I took it for a test drive. Everything seemed fine. Oil pressure was about 40ish cold. Then after it got up to operating temperature it was about 15 to 20 idle. My question is I noticed a slight tap on the passenger side which seems to do it hot or cold. A little worse when it's warmed up. So I took that side valve cover off I checked each set of valves and they're closed position. No slack in the push rods. And they all seem to move the same amount opening and closing. Oil seems to be getting to all of the rockers as well. I still have the oil in it that I used to break it in with thoughts would be helpful.
 
Pull the intake and valve covers and check the lifters for any wear. You don't want any unwanted metal going through that new motor.
 
I pulled the valve cover off of the passenger side. I am able to pull the lifters up through where the push rods go in the head.on a big block. Without removing the intake. I've got three that are partial collapse collapse. And one that lost all of its prime. It's one of the three I can't get out of the bore. The magnet pulled the rest out. The two that were partially collapsed I was able to put in oil and pump them up solid. The other one. I have to wait on a lifter removal tool. Not sure why it's that stuck... I'm hoping it's not beat up on the end that's keeping it from coming out..... Is there any possible scenario that it was just lifters not pumped up all the way for whatever reason ? When I do the lifter across the bottom of another lifter there is just barely a concave on the lifter bottoms. On the lifters that I did remove the cam looked nice and clean. I'm searching for a silver lining here lol
 
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flathead31coupe said:
I pulled the valve cover off of the passenger side. I am able to pull the lifters up through where the push rods go in the head.on a big block. Without removing the intake. I've got three that are partial collapse collapse. And one that lost all of its prime. It's one of the three I can't get out of the bore. The magnet pulled the rest out. The two that were partially collapsed I was able to put in oil and pump them up solid. The other one. I have to wait on a lifter removal tool. Not sure why it's that stuck... I'm hoping it's not beat up on the end that's keeping it from coming out..... Is there any possible scenario that it was just lifters not pumped up all the way for whatever reason ? When I do the lifter across the bottom of another lifter there is just barely a concave on the lifter bottoms. On the lifters that I did remove the cam looked nice and clean. I'm searching for a silver lining here lol
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If you can't pull a new lifter out of a fresh build, you should take the extra time to pull the intake, just in case.
 
What brand are your lifters. My nephew has a problem with new Comp lifters in his small block Ford,
that sounds very similar to yours. I have seen plenty of posts that question the current quality of their lifters.
 
So the lifter come out with not much effort using a little tool. The cam itself looks pretty good. What's a chance of just the lifter being bad?
I also check the oil and didn't see any shiny particles in it as the cam. Like I said, looked good. It's not rough or anything. I'm looking for a silver lining here. I guess I'm going to get a price on some hydraulic roller lifters and try it again

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flathead31coupe said:
So the lifter come out with not much effort using a little tool. The cam itself looks pretty good. What's a chance of just the lifter being bad?
I also check the oil and didn't see any shiny particles in it as the cam. Like I said, looked good. It's not rough or anything. I'm looking for a silver lining here. I guess I'm going to get a price on some hydraulic roller lifters and try it again

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Ouch !!
 
Here's the latest pictures. The cam doesn't look. Wore out as bad as I've seen them before. I'm just wondering if it's okay by the looks of things to go ahead and switch? Cam over to roller lifters or does it need to come apart?

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A 535, you probably have at least 10k in that motor. Don't take a chance, replace the Cam and lifters
 
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