6 Barrel Pro's - I need your input

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jos51700

jos51700

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Here's what I have:
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This setup is getting transferred to a new aluminum Edelbrock manifold (See #3 below), and installed on a HP '72 440 that is currently equipped stock with a four barrel.

1. The goal is Bone-Stock appearing 440 Six Pack. I see that I have a throttle cable/kickdown bracket. Can I use the 4-bbl kickdown or is it different between 4/6 barrel? The motor has a factory TQ sitting on it now.

2. Is this throttle linkage with the allen screws stock? I assume the idea is that if an outboard carb sticks open, the center carb pulls it closed. The throttle shafts seem kinda loose. Is that normal?

3. Aaaaand I just noticed that the stock manifold that came with these carbs says Edelbrock. I never actually went after it with a magnet, just assumed it was cast iron (That's the factory orange paint under the silver paint, not necessarily rust). Did the cast iron manifolds say Edelbrock on them? Surely not....?

I'd look for myself but I JUST taped the box back up and shoved it in storage.

4. I'll get a new fuel line kit (dunno why, but I always thought that was the sexiest part of this thing), and any kickdown parts needed. Is there anything else beside air cleaner that I'm missing to get this running?

Thanks in advance! Also, if you have interest in the stock BB TQ, 4-bbl intake, and/or a 6-bbl intake, (or the kickdown parts to sell) let me know!
 
Jegs sells the throttle linkage & fuel lines. I kinda know something about them. I have a 340 Six Pack. Linkage & Fuel lines are the same.

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72Dart6pack said:
Jegs sells the throttle linkage & fuel lines. I kinda know something about them. I have a 340 Six Pack. Linkage & Fuel lines are the same.

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Thanks for the pic! Not sure if you can see it, but someone has replaced the outboard carb linkage with some kind of allen screw/shaft collar arrangement on mine. Now I gotsta dig it back out, probably need new carbs....ugh.
 
Picture does not show up in your post. Well at least for me.
 
Talk to Al at Chicago carburetors. Look up the web site. They have every part ever made for 6 pack carbs. Awesome guy. They did my carbs.
 
Before photo. Sent them to Chicago Carburetors. And after photo you have already seen.

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Yes we can see it now. What a hot mess. Call the carb shop I recommended. They can make it 100% perfect again. Lori works the front desk. She is very polite. Nice shop to work with.
 
They sell new throttle shafts for the outboard carbs if you need them?
 
I just did this same thing on a 1969 Charger with a 440 and I can tell you it's not cheap. Your kickdown linkage will not be the same. I bought some off ebay and made it work. You can get repop stuff but you have to buy the entire kit, no one will sell just a rod. The rod that goes from the upper bell crank to the lower bell crank is longer. The rod that goes from the center carb is different too. I had to replace my throttle cable too. Return spring bracket is different. Good luck with the idle solenoid. I made a bracket and used one from a Demon carb. The aftermarkets are 100 dollars and are junk. It can be done but not on the cheap.
 
That shaft on the left side between the carbs was someones attempt to make them a mechanical set up. That in not factory. They open by the diaphragms on the other side. 72Dartsixpack picture is correct.
 
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This is for Hellrats or other than can answer question. The purple wire on Hellcat's 6pack picture goes to idle solenoid. Where does that wire connect on other end. That wire is missing from my 6 pack setup. Has been since I bought it. I need to get working to help some of my idling issues.
 
It goes to the ignition run side (12 volt) of the resistor. Don't go through the resistor or it will not have enough voltage to hold the throttle plate open.
 
Idle problems can be many with these things. Make sure ALL of the air bleeds are clear. The engine idles on all three carbs. I have both my outboard carb idle screws set at 1/4 turn out. My center carb is about 1.5 turns out. I'm running #65 jets in the center carb and a 6.5 power valve. You have to make sure ALL three float levels are adjusted correctly too and NO vacuum leaks anywhere. Make sure the outboard carb throttle shafts are not sticking. I have seen that happen too. Time and patience will be needed but you'll get it.
 
Thanks a lot Hellrats. The tips on setting carbs is great. I had gone to point of blocking end carbs completely by putting plate under those carbs and shutting off fuel. It ran great on just center 2 barrel. Then when everything is hooked up again, it stumbles and stalls when put in drive. I will go thru carb linkages after getting idle solenoid hooked up and make sure everything works freely.
 
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I always set the idle solenoid last. You can turn the throttle stop on the center carb in enough to make it idle correctly and get them setup. The solenoid is only there to close the throttle plate completely when you shut the engine down. Without it the engine will diesel or "run on" when it's hot. It should run correctly even without the solenoid.
 
Dieseling/Run on is from not enough initial timing and needing to have the throttle blades open to far to maintain idle speed. Causes them to run rich at idle as well.

Factory tune up numbers had to account for emissions, which most of us don't need to worry about now. The solenoid was a crutch to get it past emissions standards, nothing more.

Give the engine the initial timing it wants and the solenoid is not needed. There is a real good tune up manual for 6 packs over at moparts in the tech section.
 
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