/6 tanks when in gear

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Vamisk

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Not sure if this is strictly and engine problem but it's my fault for buying a Chinese carb.
So in any gear besides Park or Neutral the rpms drop like a stone and the whole car shakes like an earthquake.
Once you get gas on it, it runs about as smooth as a car that's been sitting for 20 years can but it has enough power to burn up the parking brakes because i forgot they were still pulled:BangHead:.

I know automatics are supposed to drop when in gear, but how much is too much?
 
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my slant drops about 200rpm when going from Park, into D gear. When in gear, after it is warmed up, the rpm idle is at 580. If i put it in Neutral or P, the rpm goes up to about 800.
 
Were you stepping on the brake? Check for a vacuum leak at the brake booster/ manifold hose if you were.
 
i was stepping on the brake and it was trying to move but i don't think it has a booster. It's just 4 wheel drums.
 
This is common if the T-port sync is out. There is just not enough fuel through the idle circuit by itself; it needs augmentation from the transfers.
In truth, the transfers are your low speed circuit with augmentation by the mixture screws for idle and off-idle tip-in.
So IMO the answer to your problem will probably lie there, assuming; the compression is even,the valves are not set too tight,there are no vacuum leaks of any kind, and that the float level is properly set,that the gas is fresh, and that all your pollution control equipment is properly hooked up and functioning. That's a lot of ifs.
But when you are dealing with just 6 little pistons that are going on 50 years old,there is gonna be a few cobwebs to iron out.
If you want to, you can check the T-port sync first, but that may be misleading, this early in the game.
Ideally I would start with a compression test, followed by a valve adjustment and then a second compression test, to make sure I didn't make anything worse.You can tear your hair out chasing this problem for 10 days, when all along it had low compression, and needed the valves properly lashed.
I can give you 5 things to do, and when nothing works, you will think me a fool, when all along you had 1 or 2 cylinders with low compression.
Your slanty has this firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.
It fires the first three on one revolution and the following three on the following revolution. That's right it fires only 3 cylinders per revolution. They are thus 120 degrees apart. So long as no two cylinders in a row in the firing order, are low in compression, everything seems fine. But if say 1 and 6 are low, or 5 and 2, or 3 and 4, then it will idle like a 4 cylinder, the remaining 4 taking up the slack cuz somebody merely cranked up the speed screw. But when you put it in gear, the engine just doesn't have enough power to both stay running, and drag those two lazy ones around too. If two cylinders in a row are low, pow! out go the lights.
Low compression is occasionally from a too-tight valve lash, but more often is a burned valve issue.
So that is where I would start;namely, the compression test.
 
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Sorry but what's the T-port? There's no smog equipment on the car besides a charcoal canister. Since it's a 74 i can assume someone went in and ripped it all out.
 
Click on the little blue M at the bottom of my post

The vacuum canister is a controlled vacuum leak, routed through various controls so it usually does not function at idle.
The PCV is a full-time controlled vacuum leak. It is a continuous leak and is self adjusting.
There is a valve in the air filter house hooked up to vacuum; and it too is a controlled vacuum leak,full time..
The choke pull-off is supposed to be sealed. The diaphragms are known to rupture and this then becomes a vacuum leak,at idle.
If you have A/C there will be a vacuum tap to operate the controls. If this goes bad, there will be a non-engineered vacuum leak,out of control, and continuous.
If the EGR has been defeated, this won't or shouldn't affect the idle;unless it was incorrectly defeated.
The vacuum advance is supposed to be sealed and non-operative at idle. If someone hooked it up wrong and reset the idle timing, you will have nothing but grief.If the diaphragm has ruptured it will be a timed vacuum leak.
 
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