64 Dart cluster connector

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66Valiant528

66Valiant528

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Is there a screw on the middle of the connector? Or is it just keyed so it only goes on 1 way? I did all the bulbs and now the fuel and temp gage don't work.

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Doesn't have 1 that I see. I believe 64 doesn't have one. I see a condenser looking think attached to a stud on the fuel gage. I believe the fuel gage feeds the temp gage. I did the bulbs with the battery disconnected. I wanted to pull the connector but it didn't want to come off,that's why I asked if there's a screw or something holding it on.
 
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It is keyed to fit only one way. If your temp and fuel gauges worked before and not now then the path to ground thru the different sending units Could be the issue. I would verify 12 volt power to the regulator on the back of the cluster. Beyond that regulator it is not a constant 5v reading due to regulator style but also a voltage source below 5 volts can be used to test those gauges to verify they move. After that it’s a deeper issue, but could be sending unit related.
 
Wvbuzzmaster said:
It is keyed to fit only one way. If your temp and fuel gauges worked before and not now then the path to ground thru the different sending units Could be the issue. I would verify 12 volt power to the regulator on the back of the cluster. Beyond that regulator it is not a constant 5v reading due to regulator style but also a voltage source below 5 volts can be used to test those gauges to verify they move. After that it’s a deeper issue, but could be sending unit related.
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I don't see a regulator just the "condenser " and the round multipin connector.
Wvbuzzmaster said:
It is keyed to fit only one way. If your temp and fuel gauges worked before and not now then the path to ground thru the different sending units Could be the issue. I would verify 12 volt power to the regulator on the back of the cluster. Beyond that regulator it is not a constant 5v reading due to regulator style but also a voltage source below 5 volts can be used to test those gauges to verify they move. After that it’s a deeper issue, but could be sending unit related.
Click to expand...
They worked fine before I pulled the dash to change the bulbs. And by pulled I mean unscrewed ,disconnected the ignition switch and tilted the dash down to access the bulb sockets.
 
The regulator is at the top of the circuit board and plugs in with spade tangs made onto it. Should be a couple inches long and sit off the board a bit.
 
No screw, probably the individual connectors holding it

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Are you testing the gauges with the cluster fully screwed back into the dash frame.

If it is not grounded properly things don't work right
 
Wvbuzzmaster said:
The regulator is at the top of the circuit board and plugs in with spade tangs made onto it. Should be a couple inches long and sit off the board a bit.
Click to expand...
I am familiar with the style dash board voltage limiter you are talking about. It doesn't have anything like that that I could see.
 
66Valiant528 said:
I am familiar with the style dash board voltage limiter you are talking about. It doesn't have anything like that that I could see.
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If the regulator is not the same as factory and has been changed to electronic, is it possible it got fried in the process of messing with stuff? I fried my Pertronix electronic ignition module during circuit testing the new harness and why my cluster lights were not working… so bad things happen to newer electronics mixed with old cars.
 
The original instrument regulator/ limiter IS INSIDE THE FUEL GAUGE if it has 3 terminals.

I agree likely ground. Wiggle/ work the cluster connector to scrub/ clean the terminals and feel for tightness. Remove the connector and examine the pins to the board for looseness or corrosion. Clean and solder them, use liquid / past ELECTRONIC soldering flux if need be. NONE of the flux sold at welding/ plumbing or Lowes/ HD is electronic compatible. It is all acid

GROUND: Examine the board, and find one of several mounting screws that is also common to a grounding trace and add a wire pigtail which you can bolt to the column support or the dash main frame. These are originally grounded via the cluster mounting screws.
 
It is also posable that the #1 pin broke at the cir board.

If you can, check for voltage at the 3 posts of the fuel gauge.

One should have little to no voltage
One should have a fluctuating voltage
one should be battery voltage.
 
Thank you all. I will get that speedo cable unscrewed and pull the cluster.
 
66Valiant528 said:
Doesn't have 1 that I see. I believe 64 doesn't have one. I see a condenser looking think attached to a stud on the fuel gage. I believe the fuel gage feeds the temp gage. I did the bulbs with the battery disconnected. I wanted to pull the connector but it didn't want to come off,that's why I asked if there's a screw or something holding it on.
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It's got one. The IVR is built into the Fuel gauge. That's how my 64 Valiant is, anyway. Yes, the connector is keyed and there is no retaining screw. Just grab the connector and gently "rock" it back and forth while gently pulling on it. They can be stubborn. Sometimes unfortunately, a pin or two will break off of the printed circuit board. If that happens, clean both up and carefully solder them back on. The cluster grounds through the mounting screws, but it doesn't hurt to run a dedicated ground wire too.
 
Wvbuzzmaster said:
The regulator is at the top of the circuit board and plugs in with spade tangs made onto it. Should be a couple inches long and sit off the board a bit.
Click to expand...
Not on that one. The IVR is made into the fuel gauge.
 
I assume you had the battery disconnected when you started this project?
As old as that board is, it's possible by moving it around some of the connections or pins connected to the board cracked loose. Happened to me with my '66. Get a ohmmeter to check continuity of the connectors to the tracers. Clean the big round connector with electrical contact cleaner and make sure that the connections are not too loose to the respective pins when you plug it back in (you may need to squeeze them a hair with pliers). Believe me ... it is a very finicky component.
 
Wvbuzzmaster said:
My bad, I was thinking it was the same as my 1972 Duster, did not notice we were working on an older A body cluster that was differently regulated.
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It sure would make it easy if it was like that. I wish!
 
Took the connector off and looked for voltage. The only thing live with the key on was the oil pressure bulb. Kept poking and prodding and all of a sudden got juice to the pin that feeds the fuel gauge . I need to test the regulator. Anybody know how?

20231010_172229.jpg
 
I realize this is an old post but I was able to convert the mechanical voltage limier inside the fuel gauge to an external electronic style. I also swapped the gauge behind the face from my square/rectangular style with a round 65 style. Works great. Now the fuel and temp work. Ammeter was bypassed. Both wired to a single stud.
Just as a side this is the only mopar I have ever had that puts out 14.2 at idle!!!
 
66Valiant528 said:
I realize this is an old post but I was able to convert the mechanical voltage limier inside the fuel gauge to an external electronic style. I also swapped the gauge behind the face from my square/rectangular style with a round 65 style. Works great. Now the fuel and temp work. Ammeter was bypassed. Both wired to a single stud.
Just as a side this is the only mopar I have ever had that puts out 14.2 at idle!!!
Click to expand...
I have a question please ,My fuel guage goes to full when i fill it with fuel then after 40 miles it will drop down to 1/4 but my temp guage is working fine ,any suggestions.Thanks
 
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