64 Dart Heater Cable Repair and Lube Recommendation?

[Duggie]

Hello All,

I have a heater control cable with a detached cable sleeve from the housing base. Broken one at the top of the pic, good one at the bottom of the pic. Is there a way to repair this?

Also, what is the preferred lube for these cable sleeves? I'm assuming gravity feed will work for the application.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[halifaxhops]

Not sure how to repair it but I use white grease or chain lube in a spray can on them.

 

[RedFish]

So it looks like first the sheathe went out of the ferule like crimp then pulling the cable pulled the sheathe to outside of the crimp and blowed it open. I would finger out how to get it completely apart, clean everything, correct the damage, lube well and reassemble. I might put a little effort into tightening the pot metal crimp onto the sheathe if I can find the right fit of something but... If my cable slides slick enough the sheathe might never move again.

 

[halifaxhops]

Only good way to take that apart is to get the cable end out of the handle that it is crimped on to the other end has a loop that would be a pia to make plus it would be shorter. Funny I just bought a nos one just because I fell into it for my 64 Cuda. I would try to get it back in to the feral? and maybe use something like pc7 or JB weld to secure it it is never going to be seen.

 

[Duggie]

I'll give JB Weld a shot after the cleaning / lube process.

Didn't even think of looking for an NOS part. I'll do that too.

Thanks you guys!!

 

[Duggie]

I used the baggie wrap with Liquid Wrench and the cables were dripping out the bottom in minutes. They feel great already. Looks like I'll use the same baggie technique for the lube.

Thanks all. You guys rock!

 

[Duggie]

Update; The baggies were toast after the Liquid Wrench, so while the heater cables were hanging knobs down, I gave the cables a little drop of 30 wt oil on and off for the last week. The oil dripped down the cables into the housing very well.

I also repaired the broken connection where the housing met the knob with JB Weld. I squeezed the housing just enough to slide it inside the knob housing, put JB Weld on the housing before sliding it into the knob and then added more JB Weld to the outside of both the cable and knob housing. It passes the tug test! I'll clean up the threads and sand the bumps out on reinstall.

Small victories!