64 valiant floor pan rust, practical fix?

-
I can't believe you guys think the OP's floors are so bad. They look pretty decent to me. A few pinholes? I've seen a LOT worse.
OP lives near the ocean, that "not so bad" now could turn totally blowed out and into a complete floor replacement rather quickly.

a picture is worth 1000 words, but when looking at rust it only tells half the story.

wire wheel that mess all down and it may be a beast of a different nature.
 
OP lives near the ocean, that "not so bad" now could turn totally blowed out and into a complete floor replacement rather quickly.

a picture is worth 1000 words, but when looking at rust it only tells half the story.

wire wheel that mess all down and it may be a beast of a different nature.
Salt probably wouldn't be as much of a concern as it would be driving on a lot of winter roads. I'd be careful not to create a situation where metal replacement is the only option .
 
Also remember, probably 90% or better of rust, it rusts from the inside.
Pinholes???? Years ago, I had DA ed a panel to 100% bare metal, say a fender. There was ONE pinhole on the dogleg about 1/8 inch diameter. That panel got high $ epoxy primer or metal etch primer, filled that tiny pinhole over with $100/gal filler, epoxy primer over that, them urethane primer, sealer, then topcoat, sanded, cleaned and painted the inside of thus fender, in 5-6 years that area was bubling again with small amount of rust!
Nothing is 100 % permanent!!
Like he said " only think for certain is taxes and death!"
 
Back in the seventies, I had a small area of bubbling on the lower rear corner of the passenger door of my 65 Barracuda. I had very few tools then, but I used some kind of attachment on an electric drill to grind down the outside, then, with the door panel off, of course, I used a screw driver to reach down into this dirt trap of an area between the outer door skin and the inner panel. Scraped it clean as best as I could, then sprayed carb cleaner into the area, then squirted motor oil into it, then finished it off with spray undercoating. Little bondo on the outside, sand it smooth, paint.

Fifty years later, that rust still has not returned.

Barbee, southern cars rust from the inside, northern cars rust from the underside from the salt on the road. And, in response to another's suggestion, unless you're right on the beach, a nearby ocean won't hurt.

Trapped moisture is a rust breeding ground. And dirt traps moisture. Moisture that seeps in from around the windshield or weatherstripping and gets into carpet doesn't dry out. Moisture that gets into an area between two sheet metal panels with dirt in them that can't get out stays moist. Best rust preventative is clean and dry.

I've got a 64 Polara convertible whose interior and trunk floors have numerous perforations from having been parked out in the weather before I got it 30 years ago. I think the trunk floor got sandblasted years ago, but the interior floors have never gotten any prep. It's been garage kept since I've had it. The rust is no worse now than it was when I got it. It has new carpet in the interior, so looks great. Because it's a southern car and has never been driven on salted roads, the frame rails, rockers, quarters, fenders, etc are all solid as a rock, so it's perfectly safe to drive. Now, if I was actually going to restore it, I would replace the interior and trunk floors. But for a driver, I'm just not going to spend the money.

Again, clean and dry. If the OP's car is parked out in the weather, he could spend $$$$ to really fix the floors right, and still have problems a few years from now for the same reasons the floors got rusty in the first place. And I know everyone doesn't have a garage - I didn't until I was in my thirties. But it's a reality that cars that sit outside in the weather will deteriorate.

So, you pays your money and you takes your choice. For a 64 Valiant driver that sits outside, I wouldn't spend the money to weld in new floors. Take a less expensive, easier way out. You can still replace the floors later if you really get compulsive about it.
 

Generally speaking using rough numbers I would say you can probably turn a 5k car into a 10k car and still be ahead on the money side for what you have invested. That is doing all or most of the work yourself.
Making that 10k car worth more in the market will cost you more than you will increase it's value.

Taking the OP's car to a professional body shop and getting just the passenger floor pan back to factory specs would cost thousands of dollars. Finding someone to do it for him at a cheaper price that would do a reasonably nice job would be hard to find. He could attempt it himself but with no metal experience it would be hard for him to do that.

Of course , things can outweigh the money factor and nothing wrong with that.
 
Taking the OP's car to a professional body shop and getting just the passenger floor pan back to factory specs would cost thousands of dollars. Finding someone to do it for him at a cheaper price that would do a reasonably nice job would be hard to find. He could attempt it himself but with no metal experience it would be hard for him to do that.

in what world?

a pass side pan is sub $200. OP could easily cut it out, prep it, fit it and have a mobile welder come by and buzz it in for under $300. even with materials, and buying an angle grinder you'd still be sub 1K

i'll keep my comments about turning a 5K car into a 10K car with bondo and bobo hack work to myself seeing as you get so worked up about it.
 
What I would do is get a screwdriver and hammer. Start seeing if you can drive the screwdriver through the metal further and further away from the pinholes with moderate hammer blows. I would guess you will likely end up with a thin area probably about 10" x 10". That's what I'd replace and I't treat the rest.
 
in what world?

a pass side pan is sub $200. OP could easily cut it out, prep it, fit it and have a mobile welder come by and buzz it in for under $300. even with materials, and buying an angle grinder you'd still be sub 1K

i'll keep my comments about turning a 5K car into a 10K car with bondo and bobo hack work to myself seeing as you get so worked up about it.
I said- " Finding someone to do it for him at a cheaper price that would do a reasonably nice job would be hard to find. "
Don't have to worry about me getting worked up . I've noticed that those like you that exaggerate are the ones to get worked up. The record will show that .

I don't know how you came to the conclusion that " OP could easily cut it out, prep it, fit it... " I've seen nothing that would lead me to believe that.
 
The floor is one place I would not use any type of poly or fiberglass filler. I'd use metal. People put their weight on the floor pan getting in and out. If you use fiberglass or some sort of poly filler, the floor will give some from weight and crack the filler. With metal patches, this won't happen.
 
The floor is one place I would not use any type of poly or fiberglass filler. I'd use metal. People put their weight on the floor pan getting in and out. If you use fiberglass or some sort of poly filler, the floor will give some from weight and crack the filler. With metal patches, this won't happen.
that's what the chicken wire is for, baby!
 
The floor is one place I would not use any type of poly or fiberglass filler. I'd use metal. People put their weight on the floor pan getting in and out. If you use fiberglass or some sort of poly filler, the floor will give some from weight and crack the filler. With metal patches, this won't happen.
I think you would get it stable enough to not be a problem looking at the OP's pic. I may agree with you under a different circumstance.
 
and likewise, i've seen nothing that leads me to believe that you have a cognitive thought in your head.

good day.
So we agree that there is nothing that leads us to believe " OP could easily cut it out, prep it, fit it... " as you claimed they could.
Just staying on track. It isn't there at this point.
 
I think you would get it stable enough to not be a problem looking at the OP's pic. I may agree with you under a different circumstance.
I'm not in it for your agreement. I'm advising how "I" would repair it.
 
So we agree that there is nothing that leads us to believe " OP could easily cut it out, prep it, fit it... " as you claimed they could.
Just staying on track. It isn't there at this point.
oh, no i fully believe that OP could do those steps. i don't know why you think somebody wouldn't be capable of jr high metal shop levels of work.

i mean, it's not as easy as mixing up some bondo and betty crocker'ing up the whole thing like a homecoming float; but don't act like it's major fabrication.
 
I'm not in it for your agreement. I'm advising how "I" would repair it.
c'mon man, why not endorse him? he's clearly in need of assurances that doing things the wrong a lazy way has advantages over putting forth a little more effort to do them correctly!
 
c'mon man, why not endorse him? he's clearly in need of assurances that doing things the wrong a lazy way has advantages over putting forth a little more effort to do them correctly!
I don't have a dog in the hunt for the argument. I'm simply giving my opinion on how I would go about the repair. If the OP wants to use filler, that's fine with me. My floor pan is still intact five years later.
 
oh, no i fully believe that OP could do those steps. i don't know why you think somebody wouldn't be capable of jr high metal shop levels of work.

i mean, it's not as easy as mixing up some bondo and betty crocker'ing up the whole thing like a homecoming float; but don't act like it's major fabrication.
Now you left " easily " out of the issue. I'm just saying I see nothing at this point that would lead me to believe the OP could easily do what you're talking about.
 
Now you left " easily " out of the issue. I'm just saying I see nothing at this point that would lead me to believe the OP could easily do what you're talking about.
yes. yes. because using an angle grinder is some high level skill.

i don't know, maybe it is for you? hell, i don't know maybe you don't have that new fangled 'lectrics where you're from so power tools are scary and the magic box that puts metal together is scary.

that would all kinda track what with the use of bondo and what not.
 
OP states -" Looking at other threads I know the answer should be to cut and remove but I don’t access to or the skills to weld. This is a practical weekend driver, hoping there is another solution that will last a good 5-10 years? "
 
Before I put any type filler on it, I'd treat all the rust, fill the holes with some 30 year caulk and paint over it with black oil based industrial Rustoleum.
 
OP states -" Looking at other threads I know the answer should be to cut and remove but I don’t access to or the skills to weld. This is a practical weekend driver, hoping there is another solution that will last a good 5-10 years? "

OP ALSO states:
Been on the hunt for something to learn on since I turned 40.

and what better way to learn than on someplace inconspicuous such as the floor? and joining a car club where you can meet other people who enjoy helping others with their cars and teaching new skills.

but nooooo.

why even consider that when you can slob the job up with bondo, stand back and say: yup, good enuff!
 
OP ALSO states:


and what better way to learn than on someplace inconspicuous such as the floor? and joining a car club where you can meet other people who enjoy helping others with their cars and teaching new skills.

but nooooo.

why even consider that when you can slob the job up with bondo, stand back and say: yup, good enuff!
Yes he said that back in July on a different thread. I never discouraged him from joining a car club ,meeting people and learning. So, I don't know what that has to do with anything I said.

I'm just going by what he states in his OP here. He's looking for a different solution than cut and remove -

" Looking at other threads I know the answer should be to cut and remove but I don’t access to or the skills to weld. This is a practical weekend driver, hoping there is another solution that will last a good 5-10 years? "
 
-
Back
Top Bottom