'64 Valiant SLANT 6 -rookie question (Chevy guy!).

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VALIANTresearch

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Hello - Found a 1964 Convertible, been sitting for a few years.

Since it'll be stock (no v8 plans),
I would like to put a whole new brake system and redo the gas tank, lines, etc., swap in a running slant 6 and run it, before trying to "convince" the old engine to run with PB blaster in the cylinders, etc. and seeing if it's savable.

Anyway - Wanted to buy a running 225 and put in it in the meantime instead...make it a running car and maybe putz around in it first.

Since a '64 Valiant isn't my dream car I would hate for it to sit for a long time waitng to pull/rebuild the engine AND restore the car.
Might not ever "get to it".

Just so you get the vibe of what I am after - so I found the pefect donor car...a 1964 2-owner wagon.

Now - I love wagons and it's too nice to tear up but a car with a running slant 6, same year, cheap...and I know a little about the history of it (2 owners!).

But the Convertible is PB AUTO and the donor wagon is 3-speed.
Rookie Mopar person question...is there any difference in the engine?
Like...
Moutingn area for the bellhousing?
Extra bracketry for the clutch, on the engine casting that might make it hard to put in the AUTO car?
(I know usually they are just things on the firewall, etc., but I know nothingnabout the Mopars)

Etc., etc.
Thanks!

CAM_JNKYD_CARS_09 009.jpg
 
Assuming the engines are both 1964, they will interchange (with minor mods at the most) but they're not the "same". The manual trans cars have a crank with a finished hole for the pilot bushing where the automatics usually didn't. The manual trans engine will bolt onto the auto but the auto crank engine would need to be drilled larger for the bushing or a bushing would have to be cut down to the unfinished hole diameter to fit the manual trans. The distributor had a different advance curve and the carb was jetted slightly different also but that usually poses no problem. Swap them if they do. Keep in mind that they made both a 170 and a 225 engine those years.
Why not fix them both? Wagons are starting to get popular again.....
Thanks, Mark
 
Thanks. Thewy'll work, but that's just exaclty the kind of littled eetail tha ta Non-Mopare guy wouldn't know. Mightnot be a big deal (say I was switching the one where I'd have to frill it out - I'd pass, keep looking).

So it';s good to knmow.
Can't afford trial and error, buying a hole car to get the engine!
(and cars, especially cooler, rarer ones like Valiant wagons aren't as easy to sell as they used to be...especially once i remove the engine. SO I want to do a deal like that only if it'll work.
Anyway - on the 23 slant 6s in 1964. Not to pick your rbain with 20 more $s, but maybe I canfind this concisely online somewhere/ Have ot so far?

...Visually what is a good way to tell the 225 from the other?

I don't have orig. Mopar reference material, so without having to go get the #s and thenm ask someone before buying the cars, can youtell me how to at least tell with a casting # all the ones of a certain displacement would have, which it is?

...and Just to ID displacement w/ the #...where is it?
(Like with some GMs, like on a 327 you'll have the casting # on the bellhousing telling you it is a 327, and "this" horsepower.
Then a stapmed in # elsewhere with more specific info. like date, etc.. Just the fun stuff).

Then if it's not a 225 I can pass. If I can determine it is, I can further decode any other #s later once icollect some reference info..

Also - between the 2 displacements, the switch would be the same, baring the small complications mentioned?
THANKS!
 
The year code and engine size stamping is on the RF upper surface of the block by the coil bracket mounting boss. It starts with a letter code on the '72 and older engines and then the engine size. "R" is 1961, "S" is 1962, "T" is 1963, then they jump to "V" in 1964. After that, they started over again in the alphabet. "A" is 65, "B" is 66, etc. They didn't use "I" so "H" is 72, and "J" would be '73 but then they started using numbers for the year code right around that time. "4" is 1974, "5" is 1975, etc.
The engine size is stamped right after the year code. 17 or 170, and 22 or 225 are used over the years. ( A lot easier than Chevy huh?) They also made a 198 in the early '70's. Visually, they all look similar to the untrained eye. The '67 and earlier block only had 3 freeze plugs on the side whereas the '68 and newer used 5. Naturally, the casting numbers changed through the years and engine displacements. The '74 and older heads use plug tubes where the 13/16 wrench size, gasket type spark plugs, are recessed down in the head. The '75 and newer have external plugs with tapered seats and 5/8" wrench size. The 170 is a shorter deck engine but without a 225 sitting next to it, that might be hard to determine just by sight. I don't think I've ever seen a convertible with a 170 but I suppose it's possible. The 170 usually came on the real low option base models. The convertible was only an option on the mid and high priceline cars so they were equipped with a 225 as standard. I would think the wagon would have come with the 225 also but heck, the '64 Barracuda had a 170 option (though I 've never seen one)and it was considered a high price line car so who knows? You'd have to decode the fender tag or find a build sheet to verify it's the correct engine size. There are no VIN stampings that year so just getting the correct year engine with a date coded block before the build date of the car is going to be as close as you can get.
Have fun, Mark
 
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