65 Barracuda daily driver

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Success!

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Had to move the wrench around quite a bit to find the best angle, but eventually got it to 175 ft lbs. The dual exhaust did not help haha.


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I kept going and installed the transmission filter, speedo cable, gear shift cable and the stupid park lock housing and cable (took a few attempts). Does ATF ever stop dripping out? It's been a month since I took off the pan... Anyways, the list is getting shorter. Still to do:

-transmission pan
-bolt exhaust to manifolds
-exhaust hangers in the rear
-bolt in drive shaft (first check pinion flange torque 180 ft lbs)
-fill ATF
-start engine for the first time in a month and a half
-adjust gear shift cable (I wish I hadn't touched it, but I was afraid lowering the transmission would pull too much on it)
-drive wheels off
 
Transmission pan is back on, manifolds connected to exhaust, hangers are on. Passenger side exhaust is good, driver side exhaust is touching the floor plan. It might help to take out the driver side motor mount shim. I didn't want to touch the exhaust for that exact reason, but I also want to make it better than before. I will take my time and make sure whatever I touch is done for good.
 
She lives!



I'm gonna have to tweak a few more things, but Salma Barracuda is finally a functioning car again!

I had a few hick-ups. When everything was put together, the car wouldn't start at first. It appears the timing was off and the distributor wasn't bolted down. Then I drove it to a carwash and wouldn't start again for some reason. It eventually did, but back at home it just wouldn't start. I noticed that it would sometimes fire, but once you released the car it died. So I was thinking ballast resistor and I was right. I had an old one in the trunk and it worked! It took a while to get the gears shift cable adjusted so it functioned without sticking.

Dash lights weren't working. Drove to a friend's house on a hill and noticed the park lock wasn't engaging. I was able to turn a tire against a curb and it was fine. The last two days I was chasing the dash light problem. I did a lot of unnecessary things to fix it. It turned out to be the tail light fuse, which is necessary for the dash lights to work. I had checked the fuses, but it was really difficult to see. I noticed when I used a multi-meter to see if the fuses had power going through them. Easy fix after all, but wasted so much time.

The park lock was also somewhat of an easy fix, but again I spent some time finding the problem. I thought the cable needed to be pulled to get the park lock engaged, but looking at the console I noticed that the cable is being pulled when the shifter is being moved out of park. I pushed the cable back in and it worked. I had fixed the cable a couple of months ago and as a result the cable is shorter and pulled the lock off even when in park.

After that was done I went for a longer drive. I adjusted the timing a bit, because there appeared to be a knock when really stepping on it. The knock seems to be gone now.

There is some lifter tick, but it's relatively quiet. Somehow, when the car sat for a bit and is being started, the oil light stays on for longer than normal and the valve train is a bit noisy, but quiets down after a few seconds. I hope that's gonna go away when I drive the car more.

One big thing is that the driver side exhaust is bumping against the floor sometimes, so I'll have to look into that again, but for right now it's not going to stop me from driving the car.

The car is definitely loud and especially boomy. I will look into some sound deadener, because it's too much. I like a good sounding exhaust, but when your ears a ringing it's too much and I want to go back to daily driving the Barracuda. It currently has the Dynomax turbo mufflers that came with the TTI exhaust and I don't really want to replace them. It appears that it's way louder in the car than outside. So sound deadener especially under the back seat and the area behind it hopefully helps.

Overall I'm super happy that at least the transmission leak is gone. Haven't seen a drop of ATF and that's a huge relief. There were some drops of coolant, but the exhaust stud I heli-coiled appears dry, so who knows where that's coming from. There's not a lot and it's not a constant thing.

I even started freshing up the oxidized paint a bit. Hood, fenders and deck lid will be replaced, but I wanted to make a bit nicer already. Photo was taken before I started on that though.

Very excited to drive this car again!

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I almost forgot how much fun it is to drive this car. Actually even more fun with the V8!

Unfortunately there is still the issue that during cold start the oil light stays on for too long along with some valve train noise. I was really hoping that it was caused by the engine has been sitting for the most part of 18+ months.

I looked all over FABO for causes. After it was sitting while I fixed the transmission leak, I checked the oil level and it was too high. I wasn't sure how that could have happened, but I drained the oil to the right level on the dipstick. The dipstick is still really hard to read, but I thought I might have misread it. Anyways, when the rough starting continued, I decided to drain the oil again. I thought that possibly there could have been gas seeping into the oil (I read that here on FABO), so I changed the fuel pump because it was easy and cheap enough to do. I also thought that the oil filter could have been clogged, so I changed that too. I filled the engine with 10W30 oil +STP oil treatment (that has the ZDDP) for a total of 5 quarts. The I ran the engine and let it sit over night and then marked the dipstick where the level was (I also read that here on FABO):

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As you can see the new full mark is quite a bit higher. Anyways, none of this changed anything:



How bad is it to drive the car like that? Once it's warm it doesn't happen, only when it's been sitting for some hours.

At this point I believe that either the oil pick-up is clogged or the oil pump is bad. When I put the oil pump and pick-up back on after painting the engine I was in a hurry and maybe made a mistake there? What else can it be?

I already somewhat anticipate that I have to take the pan off to see what's going on. I think I saw somewhere that you can take off the oil pan without pulling the engine?!
 
i'd throw a pressure gauge on it and see what you've got cooking before tearing into things and stuffs.

pick up clogged is a possibility. pump going bad is a possibility as well. incorrect clearance from pick up to pan is a possibility. it's unlikely that you borked anything putting it together as it wouldn't work right from the jump. so, maybe if the pick up is new you didn't get it screwed into the pump enough and it's sucking air?

more likely lifter bleed down or an issue with oil getting to the top end. what do you have cam/lifter/rocker/head wise? if it's mix-n-match you may have a compatibility issue in there somewhere.

or just the pump or drive sucks.

and yeah, you can do the pan in situ. it sucks though.
 
You sure can, I just did it. Remove pitman arm from steering box and unbolt idler arm. The steering can stay assembled otherwise. I dropped the linkage down and layed a towel over it to protect the pan. It's close but doable.
Jack engine up enough to let one engine mount bolt sit on the K frame or stick a block of wood in there and loosen the other mount/block it too.
Rotate the engine to get the front counterweight out of the way, BDC @ cylinder one should do it.
I did a cheap pan stud kit to keep the gaskets aligned but contact cement to the pan would be just as good.
Not better than pulling the engine but if you don't mind crawling around on the ground it works.
You will bang your head on stuff and get pissed off at least once
 
E-Z Lok

Supposedly the adhesive on them seals against liquids so no extra sealant should be necessary (obviously it's needed on the stud that is going in there). I'll have to drill out the hole to 27/64" and then use a 1/2-13 tap. I even ordered their installation tool even though you could technically use a screwdriver.

Another reason I'm worried is that the coolant might leak out of the exhaust stud and find its way into the cylinder and eventually into the oil. Anyone ever had that happen?
Is this possible, that a bad seal at the exhaust stud can cause a head gasket leak?

I ask because I have a very small coolant leak dripping out of the corner under the driver's head gasket just above cyl# 7. It does not drip from the exhaust stud. I went so far as to replace the head gasket and the leak began immediately! Both head and engine block were resurfaced 500 miles ago, this is so frustrating!!

(Sorry for the slight hijack of your thread!)
 
is the motor built for thinner oil? if not it's worth swapping in some with a thicker viscosity to see if that helps. easy to try before you get into oil pump changing.
neil.
 
i'd throw a pressure gauge on it and see what you've got cooking before tearing into things and stuffs.

pick up clogged is a possibility. pump going bad is a possibility as well. incorrect clearance from pick up to pan is a possibility. it's unlikely that you borked anything putting it together as it wouldn't work right from the jump. so, maybe if the pick up is new you didn't get it screwed into the pump enough and it's sucking air?

more likely lifter bleed down or an issue with oil getting to the top end. what do you have cam/lifter/rocker/head wise? if it's mix-n-match you may have a compatibility issue in there somewhere.

or just the pump or drive sucks.

and yeah, you can do the pan in situ. it sucks though.

The oil warning light is already telling me that there isn't enough oil pressure - at least at start-up and I don't have an oil pressure gauge. One more thing I'll check is the intermediate shaft - simply because it's the only thing I can still check before taking off the oil pan.

The engine is a '69 318 with smog heads, Edelbrock performer intake and 1406 carb, the rest is supposedly all stock according to the previous owner. Hydraulic lifters.

I guess I'll take the pan off in the car. I kinda wish I had done that when I fixed the transmission leak. At least I'm already used to banging my head under the car...
 
You sure can, I just did it. Remove pitman arm from steering box and unbolt idler arm. The steering can stay assembled otherwise. I dropped the linkage down and layed a towel over it to protect the pan. It's close but doable.
Jack engine up enough to let one engine mount bolt sit on the K frame or stick a block of wood in there and loosen the other mount/block it too.

Rotate the engine to get the front counterweight out of the way, BDC @ cylinder one should do it.

I did a cheap pan stud kit to keep the gaskets aligned but contact cement to the pan would be just as good.
Not better than pulling the engine but if you don't mind crawling around on the ground it works.
You will bang your head on stuff and get pissed off at least once

Thanks for the tips, I'll try to prep it as well as possible. I will likely get all the parts ahead of time and return them if I don't need them. I have a Milodon pick-up that I might put in there if the pick-up is the issue.
 
Is this possible, that a bad seal at the exhaust stud can cause a head gasket leak?

I ask because I have a very small coolant leak dripping out of the corner under the driver's head gasket just above cyl# 7. It does not drip from the exhaust stud. I went so far as to replace the head gasket and the leak began immediately! Both head and engine block were resurfaced 500 miles ago, this is so frustrating!!

(Sorry for the slight hijack of your thread!)

I'm still learning about small blocks, so I don't know if I can be of much help here. The only thing I can think of is that it's possibly leaking from the intake and it just looks like it's coming from the head?
 
is the motor built for thinner oil? if not it's worth swapping in some with a thicker viscosity to see if that helps. easy to try before you get into oil pump changing.
neil.

Supposedly it's a pretty stock engine. I initially put 15W40 diesel oil in there, but then read here on FABO that it was not really ideal. When the engine is warmed up there's no noise at start-up. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't oil get "thinner" the warmer it is?
 
Do you have one of those cameras that hooks to your phone that you can look into hard to reach places with? If you do, you could drain the oil and use it to look and see how close to the pan the pickup is, or if maybe it is clogged. Those cameras are supposedly pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
 
Do you have one of those cameras that hooks to your phone that you can look into hard to reach places with? If you do, you could drain the oil and use it to look and see how close to the pan the pickup is, or if maybe it is clogged. Those cameras are supposedly pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
I used to have one, but it stopped working. Might need to get another. When I changed the oil I tried to shine a flashlight in there, but it was impossible to see anything.
 
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I realized my oil pan is kinda beat up on the bottom and since the stock pick-up is supposed to touch the oil pan that might not be ideal. Don't think it really matters that much. I think I found the last little oil leak: I thought it was coming from the valve covers, but now I saw it's coming either from the oil pressure switch or distributor. Should be an easy fix.

However, according to the '65 manual I can leave the motor mounts in place?!

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That almost sounds too easy... And I don't even have a housing brace or cross-over pipe.
 
Finally got some time to tinker. Pulled the distributor and intermediate shaft to take a look. There is some wear on the intermediate shaft, but I don't think it could cause the low oil pressure at start-up. Oh well, time to pull the pan...

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So yeah, there's some paint and stuff in the pick up screen, but not a whole lot. Is there a way to to take off the cover and the screen without destroying it? I took apart the oil pump and everything looked ok. Can you test that relief valve somehow?

I have a Milodon stock replacement pickup that I bought at a swap meet couple of years ago that I will probably use. I also got a new oil pump already that I will use - who knows if there was an issue with the old one.

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You can take the old pump apart and look at the gears for any damage, there is a tolerance between the gears.
 
i'm not super keen on that shaft. the edges look a little rounded off and it seems like that might be sloppy in the drive? how's the engagement look/feel?

the gear looks great tho.

that screen doesn't look awful, but if you've got a new one and it fits correctly i'd say run that. what's the clearance on the pump gears like?
 
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Finally got around to taking old (left) and new pum (right) apart. My feeler gauge was rusted shut, so I'll have to get a new one before I can check the clearances. There's light rust on the outer gear and you can see a bit of wear on the plate. I will confirm the clearance, but not really a smoking gun?!

The wear on the hex of the intermediate shaft bothers me too, but it does grip the pump. I don't really want to spend another 50-60 bucks, if it's not really necessary. That could also wait until the rest is assembled.

Is there a chance that the oil passages in the block are clogged and is there a way to clean them by shoving a wire up there?
 
Got a feeler gauge. All clearances check out on both as far as I can tell. 0.015 doesn't fit at the cover with a straightedge across and a 0.010 doesn't fit between the gears. The new feeler gauge didn't have a 0.014, but even the 0.013 doesn't fit between the outer side of the gears. The old pump's gear is thickness is very close to the minimum (0.825"). The new one is at 0.0835 ish. I'll swap it either way, because I already have it and I don't wanna have to this again.
 
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