65 barracuda with 340.. What heads? What Headers?

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Shane65

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This is a street car, just looking to build around 350-375+ horsepower.. A little more would be nice, but I'm not trying to spend too much..

Was leaning towards aluminum heads, speedmasters or edelbrock most likely..

What headers work best? With this set up?

It's a 4 speed manual, no power steering..
 
I am doing the same with my 66, hope someone gives us some advice. thanks for posting this. Mine is also 4 speed with manual steering, brakes. I understand that the 273 motor mounts are different than 340, is it just change out mounts or do you have to weld and stuff?
 
Build your own headers. I believe you can just add washers to one motor mount and will bolt in fine. Biggest thing is bellhousing. You should upgrade to the larger bell. The stock 9.5 clutches are not the stoutest. I have a 10 inch and pressure plate on the stock flywheel that was custom built. When or if you do upgrade to larger clutch setup you'll loose room for headers even more so. Not sure what headers fit with larger bell housing.

Early barracudas all up the west coast. Haha
 
Iron heads with 2.02 valves, setup right and around 10:1 compression is usually good for 350-400 horse. Depending of course on cam choice, dynamic compression. etc etc. You can go aluminum heads, but if you're looking for on the cheap iron is always a safe bet. For most power the best headers are long tube, 1-5/8 primaries with the power you want too make. You can run block huggers or shortys, but you will give up some power to do so. As a tip I'd get them cerakoted. That's always good for 20-30 degree's under the hood.
 
I just got finished doing this to my '66 Valiant. Only I'm running a 904.

First off, using a 340, use the better headers. The TTI's. They are a ROYAL pain in the *** to install. Read the directions carefully before you even buy them. Take the measurements given on-line for the crank bolt. Were you ever in the Navy?? Well, I was, so I alread knew all the cuss words you'll be using installing these damn things. BUT.......the end result is IT'S WORTH IT. One of my friend helping me wanted to know why I was trying to put Chevy headers on a MOPAR. Here's the link: http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-ClassicHeaders/340-636A/TTi636A.htm

You might as well use aftermarket heads. I used Edelbrocks. By the time you get new guides, hardened seats, valves, springs, retainers and keepers on the wore out stock heads, you'll be money ahead. The TTI's were designed using Edelbrocks (per TTI).

The driver's side block mount just requires a spacing on the rear bolt as was said. I bought the shumaker mount for the right side block mount (http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/63.66aBody.html#head1, top of the page, left mount shown).

If any of you guys are using a car that had a slant 6, then you have to change your drag link to the dropped V'8 one for oil pan clearance.

The stock size clutch set up for a 273 will never hold up to 340 (or even a decent 273). Use the 340 10.5" clutch and flywheel setup with the 340, including the 340 bellhousing. Just know you'll be spending some serious coin on the starter unless someone here has figured out a cheaper solution.

You WILL be pulling your steering column and shortening the tube to clear the header tubes. I have the pictures of a bearing setup I used on the bottom of the column and the steering shaft. I can e-mail the pictures, but I don't know how to post them here. All it is, is the ser205-16 bearing with a 3 inch piece of one inch DOM tubing pressed in it with three allen set screws installed. The DOM tubing presses in nice into the bearing, and the ID of the DOM tubing JUST slips over the 3/4" steering shaft. Tighten the set screws, and done. You have to slice the column to inset the bearing, pictures show everything.

That's my two cents worth. I'm sure I have forgot other stuff, sorry 'bout that. I built my 340 a little different than you guys are, but what I outlined should be the same.

Russ.
 
This is a street car, just looking to build around 350-375+ horsepower.. A little more would be nice, but I'm not trying to spend too much..

If you don't want to spend much you better stop right now. To do the job right you'll basically need to change out the whole drivetrain & more. New bellhousing / clutch, trans with slip yoke, custom driveshaft, bigger rear end, bigger brakes, bigger wheels/ tires, upgraded suspension with swaybar, and the list goes on. The Dougs headers work well with minimal fuss but you will need to use the special Robb starter with the 10.5" bell, that setup alone will be north of $1k.
 
Dont scare him off just yet. I had a 68 2.02 340 in front of a stock cable 904 with a bushing on the convertor and it worked fine even with my anemic 7.25 SG rear
(lasted about 9 months with new motor) . My buddy had a 70 340 in his 65 with a 340 clutch and a Lakewood bell along with a stock for 4sp 8 3/4 rear. He had 68 340 Hi-po logs. Starter was stock piece but we bought a RAM mini starter for his and it worked fine. I used Hooker Super Comps, lots of pieces but they fit suprisingly well, semi fenderwell and were $400 new back then. There are other header options now but all seem to be big bucks. Hint: the passenger side can use any header, its the driver side that gets a little crazy. you need to go up and over the starter with 3-5, or under it from the front.
 
used a 10'' set up in mine , gm type clutch hat and special type cloth clutch disc no need for any special flywheel surface or insert was used , removed the giant helper spring from the pedal assembly , worked sweet on in a stock bell housing too . and i agree with all on the headers , pass side no issues , and i can not say that on the drivers side , just a driver can make 350 plus hp from a 340 with stock a body x head manifolds , and on the trans , i liked that deep first in the early a body a833 , allowed for a desent hyway gear , but still leaves nice , 5.0's , irock's n formual's , gt-no's are amazed ! keep da rubb'r syd down . just a side note , had my 64 barrcuda sitting allow side a new nascar type bodied ford/chevy/toy , there all within a few inches of each other , go think . rubb'r down n gone .
 
Great info here. I already have a 10.5 bell housing and some of the other pieces described here. I guess I still need to do some shopping though. better to know ahead of time and save some weekend time which is scarce. Good thing it doesn't have to get me to work on Monday. haha Thanks for all the time and info.
 
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