I just got finished doing this to my '66 Valiant. Only I'm running a 904.
First off, using a 340, use the better headers. The TTI's. They are a ROYAL pain in the *** to install. Read the directions carefully before you even buy them. Take the measurements given on-line for the crank bolt. Were you ever in the Navy?? Well, I was, so I alread knew all the cuss words you'll be using installing these damn things. BUT.......the end result is IT'S WORTH IT. One of my friend helping me wanted to know why I was trying to put Chevy headers on a MOPAR. Here's the link:
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-ClassicHeaders/340-636A/TTi636A.htm
You might as well use aftermarket heads. I used Edelbrocks. By the time you get new guides, hardened seats, valves, springs, retainers and keepers on the wore out stock heads, you'll be money ahead. The TTI's were designed using Edelbrocks (per TTI).
The driver's side block mount just requires a spacing on the rear bolt as was said. I bought the shumaker mount for the right side block mount (
http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/63.66aBody.html#head1, top of the page, left mount shown).
If any of you guys are using a car that had a slant 6, then you have to change your drag link to the dropped V'8 one for oil pan clearance.
The stock size clutch set up for a 273 will never hold up to 340 (or even a decent 273). Use the 340 10.5" clutch and flywheel setup with the 340, including the 340 bellhousing. Just know you'll be spending some serious coin on the starter unless someone here has figured out a cheaper solution.
You WILL be pulling your steering column and shortening the tube to clear the header tubes. I have the pictures of a bearing setup I used on the bottom of the column and the steering shaft. I can e-mail the pictures, but I don't know how to post them here. All it is, is the ser205-16 bearing with a 3 inch piece of one inch DOM tubing pressed in it with three allen set screws installed. The DOM tubing presses in nice into the bearing, and the ID of the DOM tubing JUST slips over the 3/4" steering shaft. Tighten the set screws, and done. You have to slice the column to inset the bearing, pictures show everything.
That's my two cents worth. I'm sure I have forgot other stuff, sorry 'bout that. I built my 340 a little different than you guys are, but what I outlined should be the same.
Russ.