Still I can't start my engine with the key switch and there still is no oil light when I turn the key to ACC at all. Just a flicker between off and acc. I've verified my wiring connections are hooked up right and I'm not able to locate any visible problems with any of the wires concerning the circuits affected. The only way I can try to start it is by arcing the starter relay on the firewall. I replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder just in case when I did everything. 2nd new starter relay. All new wiring under the hood. The wiring under the dash is in good shape and all proper colors are in the right place. I tried jumping the ground terminal on the starter relay to rule out a bad neutral switch but nothing changed. Tried starting in all gears and nothing happens. For the oil light issue, I tried unplugging it under the hood and grounding it but no change. When I turn the key to start there is no sound at all. Seems like a ground issue but where would it likely be in order for these too problems to occur. The ignition switch doesn't do anything and the oil light doesn't do anything, both tied to the ignition circuit. All the lights work and it does turn over when I arc the relay just doesn't start. I think it's been sitting too long with the gas in the tank. It's got spark and the base timing is right on.
65 Valiant 170 Still no activity from the ignition key
- Thread starter wh23g3g
- Start date
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Could it be the wrong/or bad start relay ? or a bad ground ??
It seems I have been here before with my early A's, A bad connection at the switch/or bad ignition switch ? A good tec will be here soon :happy1:
It seems I have been here before with my early A's, A bad connection at the switch/or bad ignition switch ? A good tec will be here soon :happy1:
slantsixdan
=..=
I don't think it's your starter relay. I think your problem is (still) in or very near the ignition switch. I can't tell exactly what you mean by I replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder just in case when I did everything. If you mean you replaced the switch as a part of trying to diagnose this problem, then look closely at the wires where they connect to the ignition switch and where they go through the firewall. If you mean you replaced the switch on general principle just to have a new one when you were reworking other parts of the car, then the switch is your first suspect. Put the original switch back in and see if that fixes it. Your brief-flicker-of-the-oil-light as you turn the key strongly suggests there's something the matter with your ignition switch, to me.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Your oil light is a clue. You have SEVERAL separate switches inside the housing that "is" the IGN switch, and all these switches are separate circuits
Usable diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaB.jpg
Look toward the bottom of diagram A and find the IGN switch
You have B -- RED power TO the switch from the ammeter circuit (battery)
ACC -- BLACK accessory power to the switched acc buss in the fuse box, hot BOTH in "run" and "acc"
S -- YELLOW "start" hot ONLY in start, goes directly to one push on terminal of the start relay
2 -- IGN2 BROWN hot ONLY in start goes directly to the + side of the coil resistor, gives you hot voltage to the ignition system during cranking is the "bypass" circuit, sometimes called IGN2 by Mopar
IG -- DARK BLUE hot ONLY in RUN (NOT hot in start) give you ignition run voltage, sometimes called IGN 1 by Mopar
So yank the switch out of the dash and see if you have joltage in "run" on the DARK BLUE line. This wire supplies power to the oil light, gauges, ign circuit (through the bulkhead) and the regulator/ alternator It is NOT fused.
It is not clear to me, after you jumper the relay it runs?? with the key in the "run" position? IF so, do the gauges work? IF so, the problem with the oil light is right in the cluster, or the sender wire going through the bulkhead connector
Same with the start circuit. CHECK with your meter/ test light at the starter relay, at the YELLOW wire coming out of the bulkhead at the relay. You should get 12V start voltage when turning the key to start. IF not, go back to the switch and check the ST terminal at the switch. If you have it there, you have trouble in the bulkhead connector.
I'd recommend you pull the connector apart and inspect it carefully. We are running into more and more people with connector problems.
Usable diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65ValiantBarracudaB.jpg
Look toward the bottom of diagram A and find the IGN switch
You have B -- RED power TO the switch from the ammeter circuit (battery)
ACC -- BLACK accessory power to the switched acc buss in the fuse box, hot BOTH in "run" and "acc"
S -- YELLOW "start" hot ONLY in start, goes directly to one push on terminal of the start relay
2 -- IGN2 BROWN hot ONLY in start goes directly to the + side of the coil resistor, gives you hot voltage to the ignition system during cranking is the "bypass" circuit, sometimes called IGN2 by Mopar
IG -- DARK BLUE hot ONLY in RUN (NOT hot in start) give you ignition run voltage, sometimes called IGN 1 by Mopar
So yank the switch out of the dash and see if you have joltage in "run" on the DARK BLUE line. This wire supplies power to the oil light, gauges, ign circuit (through the bulkhead) and the regulator/ alternator It is NOT fused.
It is not clear to me, after you jumper the relay it runs?? with the key in the "run" position? IF so, do the gauges work? IF so, the problem with the oil light is right in the cluster, or the sender wire going through the bulkhead connector
Same with the start circuit. CHECK with your meter/ test light at the starter relay, at the YELLOW wire coming out of the bulkhead at the relay. You should get 12V start voltage when turning the key to start. IF not, go back to the switch and check the ST terminal at the switch. If you have it there, you have trouble in the bulkhead connector.
I'd recommend you pull the connector apart and inspect it carefully. We are running into more and more people with connector problems.
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