65 Valiant charging system problems after repaint (Not a grounding issue)

-

Litz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
258
Reaction score
23
Location
Deer Park WA.
I'll try and make this as short as possible. Prior to the repaint everything on the car worked as it should. I removed all of the wiring from the bulkhead forward prior to painting leaving all components attached to the harness. After painting I cleaned and inspected all of the wiring and connections including the bulkhead connections. I also made sure all of the grounding points were bare. All of the firewall components were probably the original and looked pretty bad including the alternator so everything was replaced. Alt, starter relay, fusable link, Ballast resistor, Horn relay, and voltage regulator with a Durolast #VR706. the battery was new in Sept and has been on a batt tender all winter. Now everything still works as it should but when I start the engine at idle the amp guage reads +20-30 amps and slightly above idle 1,500 rpms the guage goes to the limit on the + side. Also the amp guage never shows discharge. With the engine off, the ign key on acc , headlights, signals, wipers on the guage doesn't budge. I checked the batt. voltage this morning and it was 15.3 v. I have double and triple checked everything I can think of hoping it was something that I have missed but no luck. I would really appreciate any help/suggestions. thank you all in advance.
 
I hope you saved the old parts. Most are better than new - unless / until they fail of course.
regardless.
IF everything is hooked up properly, then +20 to 30 amps shows either
a) the battery is not charged and is sucking as much as possible from the alternator
b) voltage regulation is high, probably over 15 Volts - causing overcharging. Here's where a voltmeter plus the ammeter is super helpful.


edit
+ means current is flowing to the battery. In other words, charging the battery.
1712327442733.png
 
Some '65 engine bay photos here
 
I hope you saved the old parts. Most are better than new - unless / until they fail of course.
regardless.
IF everything is hooked up properly, then +20 to 30 amps shows either
a) the battery is not charged and is sucking as much as possible from the alternator
b) voltage regulation is high, probably over 15 Volts - causing overcharging. Here's where a voltmeter plus the ammeter is super helpful.


edit
+ means current is flowing to the battery. In other words, charging the battery.
View attachment 1716231881
Thank you for the info. I have never seen anything like this. Batt. fully charged anything above idle and the amp guage goes way up. about 40 plus amps. And I cant get the guage to show discharge. Engine off, headlights on high beam and radio, etc on and the needle doesn't budge. The wiring is original and hasn't been hacked like some. I'm going to order a service manual tonight so I can hopefully track down this problem. thanks again for the replt
 
Engine off, headlights on high beam and radio, etc on and the needle doesn't budge. The wiring is original and hasn't been hacked like some.
i agree something is not right with the wiring now.
With engine off, any one of those items on, even the dome light, and the ammeter should show battery discharge if the light goes on.
 
While you're waiting for a print copy, there is a digitial copy available at www.mymopar.com

Some photos if it helps here


edit: Another thing you can do is map out the connections as they are on the car now.
Follow the Battery feed (A1) to the starter relay junction, then to the fusible link, then to the multiconnector. Look under the dash and make sure the red 12 ga wire is connected to the same position on the firewall connector. Do the same for the alternator output (R6) wire. Those are the big ones, s ostart with them.
 
Last edited:
While you're waiting for a print copy, there is a digitial copy available at www.mymopar.com

Some photos if it helps here


edit: Another thing you can do is map out the connections as they are on the car now.
Follow the Battery feed (A1A) to the starter relay junction, then to the fusible link, then to the multiconnector. Look under the dash and make sure the red 12 ga wire is connected to the same position on the firewall connector. Do the same for the alternator output (R6) wire. Those are the big ones, s ostart with them.
Thanks again for your input. I really appreciate it.
 
Thanks again for your input. I really appreciate it.
I have to thank you for the schematic that you sent me! 3 minutes and I found the problem. almost embarrassed to tell you what it was. I had the two main wires going through the bulkhead reversed. Your help saved the day. I also have a service manual coming for future reference. Thanks again, Litz
 
-
Back
Top