66 dart gt convert resto

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With as much grinding, sanding, and blasting I have done it is time to get some more parts cleaned up with a little less manual labor. The trim pieces 4 my buckets had a bunch of old paint and vinyl which needed removing. Since the shop I work at does a lot of brake service I have ended up with a surplus of old brake fluid which happens to be an excellent paint remover. Everyone says Im too cheap......I prefer to be called thrifty. With my trusty 5 gallon bucket I can soak the trim and watch the old paint and vinyl slowly bubble up until I can easily remove it. The vinyl was old, faded, stained, cracking, dried out, u get the idea. It was also glued on pretty well and I didnt want to spend a lot of time trying to get it off. The trim has been sitting in the bucket patiently waiting 4 me to come check on it in between the other stuff I am messin with and is coming along now with little hand and arm work. Now I can wear my hands and arms out on somethin else.

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Still workin at those quarters. Its taking a lot of patience trying to get all the trim holes welded up. I have it hung up loosely now so I can get a good idea of where I will weld it in. When I get it tacked down in place I will cut off the lower quarter and fit the aftermarket patch in place. The inner lips ended up needing some patches and I am gonna try to get everything fit up temporarily and get a good look at it before any final welding.

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Your doing a great job!Nothing wrong with being thrifty and it saves $$ for other expensive parts.I have a 66 Dart coming from Alabama.They picked it up last Tuesday and it,s in travel right now.Not sure how long this will take but I,m getting very excited to finally get it.I have parts to do brake conv. to disc. also some white interior(bench).The car has original paint and panels.Your definitly an insperration,I,m hopeing I don,t get any surprises with the panels.Keep up the good work.Here,s a pic of mine,it,s a 6 with clifford intake,holley 4 bbl,headders and dual exhaust.

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Thanx pettyblue. I have seen your car as well. I am pretty sure u bought it from another member right? Your dart looks unique 2 me because it is not a 270 or gt . I think the last time I saw one like that without the trunk trim and side chrome I though it must have been shaved. I guess the 66 post cars came like that. Good luck man. Looks like a real good car to start with.
 
Finally got around to weld in the patches on the pass side inner wheel well and trunk extension. Had to keep test fiiting to make sure the outer patch panels will meet up to the inner stuff. Feels good to show some progress after almost a whole year.
:clock:

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Thanks for the updates. Keep up the great work - I know it's a lot of effort and time but you'll have a really cool and unique drop top Mopar to cruise around in. I know there's still a lot to do but I can't wait to see some color on it.
 
got the d.s front floor pan welded in today. still need to clean up the welds and make a few more. i am happy with the fit of the panel i got from autobodyspecialties. not sure exactly where the 4 spd hump goes since the car came with an automatic. id like to get some pics and measurements from someone with this setup but i might just bolt in my seats and center console and get a feel 4 it that way. i am just trying to avoid having to install the motor and trans just to figure out where the hump goes, although that is probably the best way to do it. n e ideas?
Hope this helps.

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Thanx 4spdcuda66. I have seen the photo in your thread. Nice floors by the way. I would not have known that u made them yourself if u had not mentioned it. Looking at the pic from here it looks factory with the beads rolled. I was thinking of installin the trans just to get a better idea of where the hump +goes. Could I get a pic with a tape measure?
 
Still workin on getting the quarters patched up. Ive got the pass side patch alomost ready 2 go. The driver side was going on as well until I ran out of cutting wheels. I put em on, and take em off. Getting a little old just test fitting the panels all the time but I cut a little and keep checking as I go.

here goes the driver side

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Man I am glad to be a pack rat some times. I have saved this rusty old door for a few years now just in case. While examining fitment for the quarter panel, I realized that over time the holes for the door latch have become weak and craked or broken. U cant see it very well in the pics but the top scew hole has worn away and the bottom ones are cracking badly. I will be using the rusty old door to patch up the good doors striker/ latch area.

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Thanks for the updates. Keep up the great work - I know it's a lot of effort and time but you'll have a really cool and unique drop top Mopar to cruise around in. I know there's still a lot to do but I can't wait to see some color on it.

Not a problem sir. Being able to share with fabo members makes all the work more worth the effort. I cant wait to see some color as well. Unfortunately I cant make a decision. I would like to find a color that I have not seen on a early A yet. Something with metallic hopefully. Whenever I go to look at the paint colors they all seem to blend together. The paint places have bible thick books of every color imaginable.
 
The problem Im having with the 4 spd hump is that the car it came out of was a rolling bathtub that rusted away the whole bottom lip. Usually it sits neatly in place but without the lower lip there it kinda doesnt sit level. Im just worried that if its off too much it might make the carpet or center console fit wierd. Or worse, not let me shift gears.

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Got it looking good, alot of work, I have a lot of good sheet metal for that car if you need any, and lots of parts. Good luck on your project.
 
Well it,s been a long time since I,ve seen your thread.1 year exactly and I,ve done a heck of alot to my 66 Dart since lastyear.Keep up the great work and she,ll be good as new soon.I,m looking forward to following your progress.The early A,s seem to be coming abit more popular these days(more cars being parted out)which makes it nice for guys like us rebuilding these forgotten gems.
 
I noticed that too pettyblu. The early A's are coming out 2 play.

I had some old paint stripper wastin away on the shelf so I put it to use in the trunk. Made sure to keep the chemical away from the seams so it wouldnt get in there and cause a problem later. With most of the rear quarters off for repair, I can sand blast the rest of the paint on the trunk floor and not have to worry about sand getting stuck up in the wheel wells and quarter panels.

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You got to love all the hard work that goes into a project like that. I'm currently restoring a 66 Valiant Signet Convertible (Canadian Built) A.K.A Dart Gt. So far the car has been stripped down to a rolling chassis,and that has taken two years.
 
Thanx 4spdcuda66. I have seen the photo in your thread. Nice floors by the way. I would not have known that u made them yourself if u had not mentioned it. Looking at the pic from here it looks factory with the beads rolled. I was thinking of installin the trans just to get a better idea of where the hump +goes. Could I get a pic with a tape measure?
Sorry I haven't gotten back to this thread in a while, I'll get you a picture or two of the floor with measurements. 8)
 
I noticed that too pettyblu. The early A's are coming out 2 play.

I had some old paint stripper wastin away on the shelf so I put it to use in the trunk. Made sure to keep the chemical away from the seams so it wouldnt get in there and cause a problem later. With most of the rear quarters off for repair, I can sand blast the rest of the paint on the trunk floor and not have to worry about sand getting stuck up in the wheel wells and quarter panels.
That's the same stuff I used to strip the Fury and the Cuda. Works great, just be sure to clean up well afterwards!!
 
This photo is from the firewall seam to the rear seam of the trans tunnel. My tape read 23-3/16 inches.

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This shot I have the tape butted to the trans tunnel and measuring to the weather strip edge. It measures 22-1/8 inches at this measuring point. The white arrow in the upper right is at the one foot mark from the firewall seam. I have the tape even with that point.

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This is about like the previous photo, but the measuring point and measurement are a little different. I should have done this one like the previous one. If you but the tape to the tunnel here, it will measure 22-5/16 inches from the driver side edge of the tunnel to the weather strip edge. I hope these help you, if you need more precise or specific measurements just let me know, I'll help you the best I can.

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