67 318 magnum swap

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forcedfedmopar

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Hi all, I know it all has been covered and I dug through and found most of my answers, but I lost the post where I found it!

So, heres the run down. I have a 67 valiant im throwing together as a surprise.

I have a 94 318(5.2)/auto Dakota doner truck.

What oil pan/gasket do I use when putting it in the valiant? I need a center sump, but I think I read that the magnum motors use 360 style rear main?

Also, how come more people don't use the trans from the pick ups?

Im keeping it fuel injected and the wiring doesn't bother me. ive done many swaps in the past. Though this one is new.

Thank you all!
 
Well, most don't use the trans because it doesn't physically fit.

You have to cut the torsion bar cross member and the hump, and fab or modify the mount.
 
YY1 is totally right! I kept my original 904 for the time being just cause I didn't want to deal with totally dissecting and modifying the car - maybe later.
You will need an LA style 360 oil pan - as far as I know they don't make a center sump for the magnum engines. You will also have to use the center sump oil pump pickup. You can use the newer style oil pan gaskets but you need to do some modifications - there is a gap in the front corners when using the new gasket. There are threads on here where guys did some welding and modified the LA pan to match the magnum pan. I used the circular LA rubber gaskets for the centers and cut the magnum gasket for the sides.
I bought my oil pan from Jeg's, best price I found for aftermarket pans. I drilled holes in the circular center section of the pan for the nibs on the LA gasket to go through. Guess I could have just cut the nibs off. Good Luck.
 
68coupe said:
YY1 is totally right! I kept my original 904 for the time being just cause I didn't want to deal with totally dissecting and modifying the car - maybe later.You will need an LA style 360 oil pan - as far as I know they don't make a center sump for the magnum engines. You will also have to use the center sump oil pump pickup. You can use the newer style oil pan gaskets but you need to do some modifications - there is a gap in the front corners when using the new gasket. There are threads on here where guys did some welding and modified the LA pan to match the magnum pan. I used the circular LA rubber gaskets for the centers and cut the magnum gasket for the sides.I bought my oil pan from Jeg's, best price I found for aftermarket pans. I drilled holes in the circular center section of the pan for the nibs on the LA gasket to go through. Guess I could have just cut the nibs off. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. Do you have any links to the threads or maybe a link to the pan you used? Sounds like I will be modding the floor. Im really focused on making this a driver and not a racer and want the overdrive trans. Plus it will make doing the gauges easier as I will use the speed sensor off the trans for the gauge cluster.
 
Jeg's oil pan - Summit has them also but Jeg's had free shipping:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50272/10002/-1

Start researching your electrical and fuel systems. I used the original uncut wiring harness for electrical plus the Dodge PDC (fuse panel). While I was at it, I wired the lights, fuel pump relay, alternator, ignition switch, etc through the PDC.
Player1up and AAADave helped me through the fuel system. Mine is not running yet, but I'm close!
 
68coupe said:
Jeg's oil pan - Summit has them also but Jeg's had free shipping:http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50272/10002/-1Start researching your electrical and fuel systems. I used the original uncut wiring harness for electrical plus the Dodge PDC (fuse panel). While I was at it, I wired the lights, fuel pump relay, alternator, ignition switch, etc through the PDC.Player1up and AAADave helped me through the fuel system. Mine is not running yet, but I'm close!
Click to expand...

Im going to use a stock tank and put an intank pump in, utilizing the non return set up. As far as wiring I also plan to leave as much factory as possible. (more reliable) I haven't decided on whether or not to get into the vehicle wiring (lights, ect) or just leave them on their own separate system. Im going to be using the stock dash cluster from the Dakota so all gauges will be plug and play. (also cuts cost) I do want to fuse and relay everything.

Thank you for the link. I wasn't sure if the 318/360 motors took the same pan.
 
If you keep the power distribution center it's easier to wire it all in especially if you're going to run the gauges that came from the donor. ( well, I thought it was easier so take it with a grain of salt ) The PDC will have all of the grounds and power connections for all of your gauges, sensors and accessories. From there you basically just substitute your ignition switch output to the ignition input in the PDC. Tap into the ground cluster in the PDC and run it to the block. Connect the battery and alternator to the mains in the PDC and she'll run.
If you're not using the PDC, you'll have to power everything from the old ignition switch or axillary switches. That either puts an enormous load on the ign switch or clutters the interior with miscellaneous switches. What you do is up to you. I just like to explain why I did something the way I did ( for information's sake )

The trans tunnel mod isn't too bad. There is a sticky for it in the trans section that's spot on. The hardest part is getting the grinder up in there to cut the cross member. I don't think I cut out enough because my trans is super close to everything ( but that's a problem for another day ).
I've been working on tuning the Consulier lately and spending lots of time on the TM forums, but send me a PM if you have any questions.

You wouldn't happen to be ForceFedMopar from the turbo-mopar forum, would you? ;)
 
I was under the impression that all of your sending unit and sensor information was sent to the PCM. Everything was interpreted there to efficiently operate the timing and fuel injection systems. The information was then sent to the Power Distribution Center PDC (fusebox). From the PDC the CCD bus signal (binary) was directed to the interior. I thought the CCD was deciphered there and the individual signals went to the respective gauges. I do know that most of the interior functions such as dome light, electric seats, fan motor, etc are fed by the Body Control Module (BCM).

I didn't use the BCM, instead I used the power feed from the fusebox (PDC) to power the original underdash fuse panel. The PDC contains most of the relays necessary for fuel pump, headlights, automatic shutdown relay, air conditioning, etc.

I agree with Player1up. If you have the Power Distribution box from the donor vehicle - use it. Wiring the PDC will be a lot easier than figuring out how to wire the new alternator, relays, sensors,etc. So far, I have installed the original wiring harness without cutting the harness at all. The harness from the truck going into the cabin was cut when I got the engine. That's all that I have used to rewire the ignition switch, headlights, stop lights fuel pump, data link connector, and original fuse panel.
 
68coupe said:
I was under the impression that all of your sending unit and sensor information was sent to the PCM. Everything was interpreted there to efficiently operate the timing and fuel injection systems. The information was then sent to the Power Distribution Center PDC (fusebox). From the PDC the CCD bus signal (binary) was directed to the interior. I thought the CCD was deciphered there and the individual signals went to the respective gauges. I do know that most of the interior functions such as dome light, electric seats, fan motor, etc are fed by the Body Control Module (BCM).

...
Click to expand...
I did a quick look over the wiring schematics and it sure looks that way. On page 8W-40-5 of my manual it shows that there is an I/O processor that controls the temp gauge, tach, fuel, speedo, temp gauges etc...I never really looked that far into it because I kept the stock 73 instruments.
That would make sense though because the computer "knows" what the sensors are doing and the gauges would be visual representations of what the ECU knows.
 
player1up said:
If you keep the power distribution center it's easier to wire it all in especially if you're going to run the gauges that came from the donor. ( well, I thought it was easier so take it with a grain of salt ) The PDC will have all of the grounds and power connections for all of your gauges, sensors and accessories. From there you basically just substitute your ignition switch output to the ignition input in the PDC. Tap into the ground cluster in the PDC and run it to the block. Connect the battery and alternator to the mains in the PDC and she'll run.
If you're not using the PDC, you'll have to power everything from the old ignition switch or axillary switches. That either puts an enormous load on the ign switch or clutters the interior with miscellaneous switches. What you do is up to you. I just like to explain why I did something the way I did ( for information's sake )

The trans tunnel mod isn't too bad. There is a sticky for it in the trans section that's spot on. The hardest part is getting the grinder up in there to cut the cross member. I don't think I cut out enough because my trans is super close to everything ( but that's a problem for another day ).
I've been working on tuning the Consulier lately and spending lots of time on the TM forums, but send me a PM if you have any questions.

You wouldn't happen to be ForceFedMopar from the turbo-mopar forum, would you? ;)
Click to expand...

I am. I haven't thought too hard about the rest of the car wiring, I suppose it may be easier to do that and get rid of the 50 year old wiring. Ill look into this!
 
For me it wasn't so much about replacing the wiring to the current components ( I left most of that stock anyway except for installing relays for the headlight circuit ) , it was about not having to wire in all of the new stuff from scratch. Heck, either way is a bit of a chore, but with the donor harness it's already bundled with all of the correct connectors and such. In my car the only things that are powered from the old harness are the relays in the PDC, rear lights, gauges and A/C compressor. Everything else draws main power thru the PDC, including the cooling fan, amp and stereo.
 
Finally something I can give an expert opinion on! OK I was looking for ways to connect my complete magnum EFI gauges to my old dash. I found the most awesome dash ever! It's called Dash Commander. It's a tablet, smartphone, Personal computer app that uses a bluetooth adapter off of the ODBII port! It is so freaking sweet, using GPS, and all the other sensors in a phone or tablet it can do 1/4, 1/8, 100 ft., 60 ft, mileage, o2 sensors, MAF sensor readings and a ton more! Look up Dash Commander on google play or apps store. It also has hundreds of different dash styles, fits ANY 1996 or newer! Big time cool!

BTW the app costs $10, the bluetooth adapter (ELM 327) $20 on ebay, and if u wanna run a tablet most won't have GPS. Bluetooth GPS $9 on EBAY! $40 bucks for the coolest dash you will ever see. Mine is from Verizon so it provides a free WIFI hotspot like the newest GM cars are bragging about today!

50 year old car with wireless gauges, WIFI hotspot, Internet access, FULL NAV with Google maps (with GPS) and hell even play videos or games on the dash! With a standard earphone jack as audio out to stereo system.
 
Cool! Sounds like a very reasonably priced means of deciphering the CCD bus information!

Thanks for sharing!
 
Now you got me thinking about gauges!

I think most of us are running a combination of signals. We have the digital signals from the newer sensors (sending units) and the old style analog gauges of the dash. I'm at the point in the swap that I'm looking at hooking up the dash gauges. Looks like I'm going to have to provide mounting points for the old sending units for oil pressure and water temp. Ugh!

Then, I'm still not sure what's going to happen since I'm still using the original 904 and won't have a speed signal to the PCM. I understand you don't have a problem if the original PCM is from a manual transmission. We'll see!
 
Following along as I get ready to embark on my own 5.9/518/FI transplant. Did I read correctly in this thread the 94 speedo reads off of the trans? I can't find it now, but I am going cross-eyed reading related stuff today. My donor is a 95, I haven't yet purchased the shop manual. Can one of you tell me if my 95 computer and speedo read off of the trans? Thank you
 
Yes the 95 still reads from the trans. If you want to use the stock speedo, use a speed sensor from an 89 ram, the cable passes through it and still sends the correct pulse to the PCM.
 
Im using all of the electronics from the Dakota. One of the main reasons for this is to retain as many fucntions as possible. (remote start, keyless entry, cruise control, ect.)

Heres a link to my build thread.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=298221&page=2

Im am moving right along. Today I finished modifiying the core support to lower the Dakota radiator down.
 
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