67 charger Rear end?

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alexk90

alexk90

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So I was able to score a 67 Charge 8.75 rear end. This is really great for me because, I can not seem to find anything else around me and I got a good deal with it.

So my question is, what do I all need to do to put it in? I am aware that I need to move the spring perches. Am I missing anything?
Also there is no brakes on this rear end, so should I just go for 11 inch brakes or what? If I do, where is a good place to get a set of brakes for this rear end?

Thanks everyone!
 
Are you putting it in the Valiant in our avatar? If so, and assuming you currently have the stock 7.25, relocate the spring purches, get another driveshaft or have yours shortened, and you'll need some u-bolts and shock plates for 8.25 or 8.75. Depending on which size rear axle yoke you have, you may need a conversion u-joint as well.
 
alexk90 said:
Also there is no brakes on this rear end, so should I just go for 11 inch brakes or what? If I do, where is a good place to get a set of brakes for this rear end?

Thanks everyone!
Click to expand...

10 inch LBP drums are the most common and can be found on most all B, E, C, F, M, J and various trucks if they are equipped with an 8.25 or 8.75. I believe some 7.25s with the LBP can be swapped as well. You should be able to source them locally in your Pic-A-Part or from someone selling them here on FABO. 11 in rear brakes can be found on B/C/E/some trucks as a HD option.

A 2nd rear brake option is to convert to rear disc brakes. Dr Diff sells a kit. A FABO member (dodgedifferent2) makes the brackets for the base Mustang 94-2004 rear discs. You source the rest of the brake components locally

If you currently have the SBP/9 or 10 inch front brakes, You may want to swap to LBP front discs in order to carry one spare
 
Don't forget wheels... You'll need 4.5" bolt pattern. Also, you might have to have wheels made with mucho back space.
 
All the above, plus its longer than the A-body rear you're replacing, so custom wheels may need to be added to your list.
 
Sorry I did not reply sooner everyone.

Firstly thanks for the info everyone! Also what is the best way to figure out backspace?
 
cosgig said:
So, take a straight edge and lay the edge on the face of the drum in the rear! Now measure from the edge that is on the drum to the leaf spring, and also from that face to the wheel lip edge! Let's say that it is 4" from the spring and 6" from the wheel lip edge! You would like a little clearance on each side so subtract 3/4" inch from the 4" measurement and you get 3 1/4" of backspace! Next you subtract about 1" of clearance from the drum edge to the wheel lip, 5"!! Using these numbers you could run an 8" rim with 3 1/4" backspace!! These are just imaginary numbers, but you get the pic!!

On my pictured example, this is the 66 Valiant, the distance between the spring and the drum face is 5 3/4" and between the drum face and the wheel lip is 5 1/2"! I am inclined to go with an inch on each side, so I can safely run 4 1/2" backspace and 4 1/2" from the drum to the lip! That equals 9" but I would err on the safe side and go with an 8" rim with 4" backspace!

View attachment 1714998811

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Click to expand...

Here's a write up I did on Memikes thread, hope it helps!!
 
If you leave the axle stock length you DO NOT need custom wheels, in fact there's probably more options going this route as most modern vehicles utilize much more backspacing than older vehicles. This helps especially when you want to upsize to 17"+ wheel sizes.
 
Okay so question for everyone with this rear end, that i forgot to say at first. The rear end came with 294 gears, is this good or what? Really noob with most stuff lol
 
Hello everyone,

So it has been awhile since I posted in this thread but, I just want to double check some things. I know I have to move the spring perches in and from what I have read, 1/2 inch in on both sides. Is this true? Also making sure that I have a 3 degree up.

Now some things I would like to know is where is a good place to get a rebuild kit for the rear end? Also want to different gears in and suregrip. Anyone have any suggestions for these things?
 
alexk90 said:
Hello everyone,

So it has been awhile since I posted in this thread but, I just want to double check some things. I know I have to move the spring perches in and from what I have read, 1/2 inch in on both sides. Is this true? Also making sure that I have a 3 degree up.

Now some things I would like to know is where is a good place to get a rebuild kit for the rear end? Also want to different gears in and suregrip. Anyone have any suggestions for these things?
Click to expand...

How about these guys???

Drivetrain


If you narrow the housing to be the same as an a-body, then you can use stock a-body 8 3/4 axles if you want to keep small bolt pattern to match the front... Just another option...
 
krazykuda said:
How about these guys???

Drivetrain


If you narrow the housing to be the same as an a-body, then you can use stock a-body 8 3/4 axles if you want to keep small bolt pattern to match the front... Just another option...
Click to expand...

I will have to look at those guys. I am already upgrading to a disc brake front end so, the BBP already works for me.
 
Dr. Diff can hook you up with a rebuild kit.

If you're already moving the perches in you might as well put an offset shackle and hanger kit on there too. It'll give you an extra inch or so of clearance. You can get one of those through Dr. Diff as well.
 
alexk90 said:
Hello everyone,

So it has been awhile since I posted in this thread but, I just want to double check some things. I know I have to move the spring perches in and from what I have read, 1/2 inch in on both sides. Is this true? Also making sure that I have a 3 degree up.

Now some things I would like to know is where is a good place to get a rebuild kit for the rear end? Also want to different gears in and suregrip. Anyone have any suggestions for these things?
Click to expand...

The best place: DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components
 
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