67dodgedartconv
Well-Known Member
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67 Dart electrical problem
- Thread starter 67dodgedartconv
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Gray wire is oil pressure switch or sender. Dk blue is coil.
Right off my stock 67 273.
Right off my stock 67 273.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The functional path of what I call "ignition run" (IGN1) comes from the ignition switch (dark blue) through the bulkhead resistor, and branches off in the harness to feed the ballast resistor and the voltage regulator. In the original configuration, "ign1" GOES DEAD when you twist the key to start. Direct "battery' coil power is then supplied by a separate contact in the ignition switch, "IGN2". this is hot only in start and goes from the ignition switch (brown) through the bulkhead connector, and to the coil+ side of the ballast.
Might be the ignition switch bad, the bulkhead connector is dirty/ damaged, or another broken wire.
With your ballast bypassed, clip a meter or test lamp on the coil + wire. Turn the key to run, you shouldl have "same as battery" voltage. Twist the key to start, and if the brown is still jumpered to that connection, you should STILL have "same as battery."
If you do, and no spark, you have a tossup------either the coil or something in the Pertronix.
I was not aware you were supposed to operate a Pertronix without a ballast (depending on the coil used) You might want to check that out.
Might be the ignition switch bad, the bulkhead connector is dirty/ damaged, or another broken wire.
With your ballast bypassed, clip a meter or test lamp on the coil + wire. Turn the key to run, you shouldl have "same as battery" voltage. Twist the key to start, and if the brown is still jumpered to that connection, you should STILL have "same as battery."
If you do, and no spark, you have a tossup------either the coil or something in the Pertronix.
I was not aware you were supposed to operate a Pertronix without a ballast (depending on the coil used) You might want to check that out.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If you get this fixed, YOU ARE NOT DONE!!! Check whether you have voltage drop in the harness. This will cause overvoltage at the battery.
With the key in "run" and the engine stopped, stick one meter probe into the top of the pos. battery post. Hook the remaining probe to the coil+ (with no ballast). You should be reading a VERY low voltage. More than .3V or so, (3/10 of one volt) means you need to dig into the system. The bulkhead connector, the key switch, and it's connector. Any drop (that reading) is ADDED to charging voltage.
My car had nearly 1 1/2V drop. This means that a properly working voltage regulator at 13.8--14.2 (nominally 14V) would actually run the battery up to 15.5V
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Also check the ground side of the circuit. With the engine running at fast idle, make this check first with no loads powered, and again with lights, heater, etc, powered.
Stab one meter probe into the top of the battery NEG terminal. Stab the other probe onto the VR mounting flange. You again are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better, zero is perfect. If there is any more than .1--.2V improve the engine/ battery/ body ground, and make sure the VR is well grounded.
With the key in "run" and the engine stopped, stick one meter probe into the top of the pos. battery post. Hook the remaining probe to the coil+ (with no ballast). You should be reading a VERY low voltage. More than .3V or so, (3/10 of one volt) means you need to dig into the system. The bulkhead connector, the key switch, and it's connector. Any drop (that reading) is ADDED to charging voltage.
My car had nearly 1 1/2V drop. This means that a properly working voltage regulator at 13.8--14.2 (nominally 14V) would actually run the battery up to 15.5V
=======================
Also check the ground side of the circuit. With the engine running at fast idle, make this check first with no loads powered, and again with lights, heater, etc, powered.
Stab one meter probe into the top of the battery NEG terminal. Stab the other probe onto the VR mounting flange. You again are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better, zero is perfect. If there is any more than .1--.2V improve the engine/ battery/ body ground, and make sure the VR is well grounded.
67dodgedartconv
Well-Known Member
So there is only the dark blue to the pos side of the coil and the black distributor wire to the neg side? 2 wires total? Oil pressure sending unit wire with connector broken off makes sense. I have a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up at the moment so the wire was dangling.
Oil pressure switch is by / rear of dist. And where the wire is cut makes me think it was cut
I'm not familiar with the protronics conversion but most electronic ignitions just replace the points with an electronic switch of some type.
67dodgedartconv
Well-Known Member
Right, it's a magnetic pickupin the distributor that replaces the points. So your coil just has 1 wire to each side? 2 total?
67dodgedartconv
Well-Known Member
Thank you 67Dart273. I will work on your suggestions in the next couple of days. Fault should not be in Pertronix because I just replaced it with a new unit.
That would be my assumption as well. BUT you should refer to the Protronics wiring diagram for what gets powered from where. 67dart273 does a really good job outlining the test procedures.
I pulled up a random pertronix install sheet. What part number are you using?
This link takes you to their FAQ and install sheets.
PerTronix Technical Help Desk
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67dodgedartconv
Well-Known Member
I think it's 1381. Distributor wires are attached as in diagram, ballast resistor bypassed, and using pertronix coil. Ran great before trouble started. Replaced old pertronix with identical new one because I thought it was failing but made no difference.
Run a jumper from batt positive to the plus side of the coil and see if it starts. If it does it is the wiring between batt and ignition or ignition to coil.
67dodgedartconv
Well-Known Member
Will do, thanks.
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