67 dart stroker hellcat gen3 hemi with twin turbos...

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down to testing the driveshaft sensor...saved for last. i believe its gonns work as its no longer in red dot error. just shows 0mph for the first time.
 
well made my very first clean a to b pass last night. 3.5psi
6.30 @110mph but i did lift at the mph lights as the car began to really scoot that last 150ft. lol i was so excited it ran cleanly for once. have to fix my pdi settings for my boost controller solenoids though. as it tried to send me to the moon on 20psi and hit boost cut. called it a night from that after 2x tries and to no avail. click the ljnk and can see my smack boost cut a few times in another vid. car would just shut off and was comically depressing. waa just gonna blow the tires off anyways but would of been fun to drive.
 
boost noids are squared away,fuel pressure sensor showed up and set... now i can check my driveshaft sensor for gap and see what happens there. hope i messed up snd opened gap to far. we shall see. planning on going to i29 friday or saturday just to get away for a bit. make a few hits and more sest time.
 
well ive been 6.277 now but ive not made another clean pass since. had 3 hits at sct kickoff part in streetracer class. car **** all over itself once again. i think im done with it at this point. ive moved some harness wires away from each other. if it dont work come wedensday tnt. im not sure ill ever care to run it again like forever.

break down how sct went for me. constant stall errors and sync issue errors with the holley ecu.
1st test pass pop sputter died and restarted while still 100% tps. smoked the tires for about 80ft before it almost ran out and then sync errored 2x before the stripe. found my co2 bottle empty and unhooked from its pressure line. i was certain i was sabatoged till i noticed the push in hose broke off inside the connector on the bottle. so no co2 for the weekend. i cant remember turning it on and just leaving it on. as it has a very slow leak and ive not needed it yet. as the car wont even ******* make a clean pass on its own back to back.
1st round of race. i pulled a 800hp+spray 4x4. car spun hard again with a miserable 1.58 60ft to run 6.45@108
next day 2nd rd. car literally shut off after letting go of the transbrake. 2.4x 60ft and ran like *** dying and struggling along the way. i was very very tempted to drive it right into the shutdown wall strait off the end of the track. lucky i was thinking of others who still had a race to win. i truly want to drive it off a cliff. im actually still considering it. im so pissed off about it. been a year, **** wont work consistently to enen make me smirk let alone smile. i look and feel like a fool with this pos.
still have never gotten a driveshaft sensor to operate since the very beginning.
im out of patients, out of money and out of my mind to keep at it.....saying all that i movedsome wiring around away from crank sensor, tideaway coil wires furth away and closed the gap on my driveshaft sensor. ds sensor close enough to get some rape charges at this point.
 
Man that sucks. I chased a similar problem for weeks when I had the Fitech and a distributor. It would just cut out under different circumstances but mostly as it got into boost. A buddy reminded me to make sure any high output wires weren’t running parallel to any of the ECU wires. Sure enough when I checked my wire runs I noticed my coil wire ran parallel to the ECU ignition wire, so I reran them but crossed instead of parallel to each other and boom, problem gone!
 
subcom said:
Man that sucks. I chased a similar problem for weeks when I had the Fitech and a distributor. It would just cut out under different circumstances but mostly as it got into boost. A buddy reminded me to make sure any high output wires weren’t running parallel to any of the ECU wires. Sure enough when I checked my wire runs I noticed my coil wire ran parallel to the ECU ignition wire, so I reran them but crossed instead of parallel to each other and boom, problem gone!
Click to expand...
mine are ran in the exact same harness plug pigtail. i cant move them from there but are seperated immediately from the pigtail.
i am wondering if spark plugs could be a cause but i honestly couldnt imagine them giving the holley a rpm sync error. the sync error is cam timing with crank timing. keeps saying its 30+° off at the cam. yet it will still run just cuts out. wtf could cause a 30+° reading yet come right back instantanious and keep on running cleanly? f if i know at this point.
 
very 1st pass i made last weekend and then the 2nd round and last pass i made. you can see the car just quit running and then keep on going after. i never lifted off the accelerator. was hoping it would epically explode. so i could build a g2 and twin 88s...which im saving for now. sick of this ****. i wanna race not f around and not find out it wont run cleanly. imagine what it could do at 25psi vs the 3.5 it has ran 6.27 cleanly at.



 
Have you verified crank trigger and cam sync setup and placement? Sounds like the cam sync is off. Is the injection strategy set up as sequential? Try untimed sequential so it only uses cam sync for startup.
 
Hemirunner said:
Have you verified crank trigger and cam sync setup and placement? Sounds like the cam sync is off. Is the injection strategy set up as sequential? Try untimed sequential so it only uses cam sync for startup.
Click to expand...
holley only allows it for gm ls and ford coyote to bypass the cam sync after firing up. it was one of the first things we considered. few weeks ago car ran a few clean no error passes. thought we had it dealt with. then it just showed up again for no apparent reasoning what so ever. must be rf interference but from where...still hunting it down but out of ideas. seperated coil wiring from crank sensor wiring. cam sensor is what errors all the dang time but its all by itself more or less. ive checked the cam wheel on the cam sprocket and it isnt loose either. exhausted of ideas honestly. enough so ive not even touched the car since getting back from sct.
 
turbofreek said:
holley only allows it for gm ls and ford coyote to bypass the cam sync after firing up. it was one of the first things we considered. few weeks ago car ran a few clean no error passes. thought we had it dealt with. then it just showed up again for no apparent reasoning what so ever. must be rf interference but from where...still hunting it down but out of ideas. seperated coil wiring from crank sensor wiring. cam sensor is what errors all the dang time but its all by itself more or less. ive checked the cam wheel on the cam sprocket and it isnt loose either. exhausted of ideas honestly. enough so ive not even touched the car since getting back from sct.
Click to expand...
Untimed sequential is just that. I was mistaken in that it doesn’t use the cam synch at all. It’s easy to do and easy to put back. Worth a shot anyhow. If it’s RF, where’s it coming from and have you tested for it? Anything running near the alternator? Get out the roll of aluminum foil and start wrapping wires!
 
Another option would be to buy a box (inexpensive) of clip on ferrite beads and place them all over the wire runs you suspect are emitting EMI.
 
im pretty sure its from the coil wiring and crank/cam wiring as they all go into the firewall at the same hole. i believr ivr narrowed it to the coil wiring being to close to the crank sensor. as that is the only exposed crank wiring at the sensor pigtail. month or 2 ago i seperated them and it made a few clean passes. what i didnt do was secure the coil wires away and it bit me back. probably due to the diaper shoving the wires upwards towards the crank sensor. ive yet to test the new secured/seperated further apart. once i get free time on a wed night ill go tnt and see.
 
Mine all go through the same hole as well. The cam and crank wires should be separate, shielded 3 conductor from the ecu to the crank and cam. Anything less and you’ll have issues.
 
I've been working on a small engine ignition timing controller for my son's go-kart. I happen to be writing a series of articles on it for Nuts and Volts Magazine. That said, I had to route the coil driver wire totally away from the magneto trigger input & power wires. Here are scope shots showing how the RFI from the coil driver wire scrambled the crank trigger signal.

Magneto trigger is shown in red, and coil driver is shown in yellow. First picture is with all 4 wires going through the same hole in the enclosure. Second picture is with a separate hole for the coil driver. Perhaps this helps.

Together1.png


Separate3.png
 
turbofreek said:
very 1st pass i made last weekend and then the 2nd round and last pass i made. you can see the car just quit running and then keep on going after. i never lifted off the accelerator. was hoping it would epically explode. so i could build a g2 and twin 88s...which im saving for now. sick of this ****. i wanna race not f around and not find out it wont run cleanly. imagine what it could do at 25psi vs the 3.5 it has ran 6.27 cleanly at.



Click to expand...


Ive been following your process, and you are doing things not many would attempt let alone build themselves. Keep at it. You have come too far to quit. building the twin 88s will have their problems. sorting this is the education needed to go even better next time.

0.02

Good luck
 
Hemirunner said:
Mine all go through the same hole as well. The cam and crank wires should be separate, shielded 3 conductor from the ecu to the crank and cam. Anything less and you’ll have issues.
Click to expand...
This ^ and I’ll add to it by saying you need to terminate the shield to ground.
 
amazing to see the responses. i found moving 1 single spark plug wire away from the coil harness wiring. i went from popping n banging a dozen times in 1 pass. to only 2 mild studders on the next pass. i am gonna get some aluminum tape and wrap the exposed 6-12inches of non shielding/covered wires with it. as my other maij harness i have in a box is wrap in such a fasion. if that is all this is. 4.90s here i come. lol

also moved my spark plugnwires away from the alt(1wire) wire that goes to battery.

also going to clean up the spark plug wires as well. no more half assing this area. full on **** around to find out time.
other wise ita 30k complete engine with turbos
 
Emi will screw with your head won’t it? Glad you’re on the path to figuring it out. I really want to see this car make a clean solid pass. We’re cheering you on.
 
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