I got a 67 Valiant /6 3sp. It has all drum. I bought the car a few months back and I'm trying to make it road worthy. I bought new brake shoes and drums for it. I replace the rear wheel cylinders, but the front ones I was having problems removing them, so I took the hardware out of the front wheel cylinders, cleaned out the clyders and replaced the hardware. The master clyinder, I unbolted the mounting bolts from the firewall then I was having problems removing the linkiage bar that goes to the brake pedal, I looked under the dashboard I wasn't able to remove the brake pedal ( with the master clyinder mounted or dismounted.) So, I cleaned up the master clydier, bolted it up the firewall, filled it up and put the cover back on. I raise the back end of the car (since there is no room to get to the bleeder vavle) and started bleeding the brakes. The master clyinder is on the driver side, so i started on the right rear tire. This is were things started going wrong. The brake line that goes to the right rear tire was a little lose and there was some brake fuild comming out, using a 3/8 line wrench I tighted the line, but as soon as I took off the line wrench, the brake line move back where it started. I notice the is bracket holding the brake line on the rear axle, but where the brake line hoops is no where near the bracket, so I used zip ties to hold it down ( I was trying to gentenly forming the line to have stright path vs a hoop)as I tighted it down. I had a friend hold the brake pedal all the way down as I open the bleeder vavle. I tighted the vavle, the brakes were pumped, no fulid came out. I repeated the process 3 more times and I move to the diver rear tire. I didnt have a problem with the rest of the wheels, but the brake pedal was hard when I first bought the car and now it would go 3/4 down til there was persure. I torqued all the wheels lowered the car and decided to test the brakes. My driveway has a decent degrade, my car backed up all the way down the hill, towards the end of the hill I had to cut left in order not to hit parked car. I put the car in first gave it some gas got it moving to 5 mph and tried the parking brake, it worked. I drove to the end of the street while I kept it in first. The brakes didn't worked, unless I pumped them or used the parking brake. I parked the car went to bed since it was 4 am. I'm new messing around with cars, and the only experince I got with doing brakes are on my ram, which has touchy brakes ( thats how I like it). I was wondering if anyone out here has gone thru this before, or has an idea of what could be wrong. My only guess is the master clyinder and/or the brake line that hoops.
67 Valiant: brake problems. need help
- Thread starter jefroa
- Start date
-
3404speed
Ancient Decrepit Member
If you can, "gravity bleeding" works pretty well. Just open the bleeder screws of the rear cylinders, top off the master cylinder, and let it sit for 15 minutes, check the master cylinder to make sure it has fluid, and watch to see if the fluid is dripping from the bleeder screws. If you have steady drips you can close the screws and try the brakes again. If not, wait longer, and check again, Hope this helps
Fishthatkills
Fish that kills
I used a 16oz clear water bottle and a length of clear air hose (like that found on a fish tank) that you can get at walmart. It's 1/4 inch in diameter. I then drilled a hole in the top of the plastic cap on the water bottle 1/4 inch drill size. I then drilled a very small hole again in the bottle cap off center. I used the smallest bit I had. This to allow air to escape.
I then pushed the clear hose into the bottle cap (cap should be on the bottle now) and pushed the hose almost to the bottom.
What we have made is a bleed bottle that you connect to the bleeder valve. Have someone pump the brake untill you see no more bubbles in the clear line in the bottle. Once you have no bubbles have your buddy keep the pedal down and tighten up the bleeder. This makes it a whole lot easier to "see" whats going on and you capture the fluid so you don't make a mess. Empty the bottle when you are done into an approved disposal container. DO NOT RE-USE THE BRAKE FLUID!
John B.
I then pushed the clear hose into the bottle cap (cap should be on the bottle now) and pushed the hose almost to the bottom.
What we have made is a bleed bottle that you connect to the bleeder valve. Have someone pump the brake untill you see no more bubbles in the clear line in the bottle. Once you have no bubbles have your buddy keep the pedal down and tighten up the bleeder. This makes it a whole lot easier to "see" whats going on and you capture the fluid so you don't make a mess. Empty the bottle when you are done into an approved disposal container. DO NOT RE-USE THE BRAKE FLUID!
John B.
Fishthatkills
Fish that kills
Here's a crude drawing for ya!
Red is the fluid!
John B.
Red is the fluid!
John B.
green1
Well-Known Member
When you say (clean up) was there any pitting?
You need a new line, if it won't tighten or let fluid thru.
You need a new line, if it won't tighten or let fluid thru.
Thanks for the info, I'll try both, "gravity bleeding" and the bleed bottle tonight. For the clean up part, I don't know what pitting is. One of the front wheel cylinders rubber piece was ripped, and all 4 wheel cylinders had rust inside with brake fuild. The master clyinder also has rust, that's why I was trying to replace it.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Maybe I'm misunderstanding the description of your bleeding technique. Fishthatkills gave you a good description for a one-man bleeder rig and also a way to capture used brake fluid.
For the pal-in-the-car method, suggest you try this.
1. Bleed sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. Do not go to the next until each one is completed in this sequence.
2. Starting @ RR, gain access to the bleeder screw preferably with a box end wrench that fits snugly.
3. Have assistant in car pump brakes 4-5X and hold pedal down. Instruct assistant that pedal will drop when you open bleeder. When pedal begins to fall, continue to press slowly towards the floor. When pedal hits floor hold it there and let you know.
4. Open bleeder slowly until fluid comes out. Letting too much fluid out at once may trigger the proportioning valve to shut off that particular brake circuit in response to catastrophic failure.
5. When fluid quits coming out, close bleeder valve. Tell assistant to let brake pedal return to up position when valve is completely closed.
6. Check master cylinder to make sure there is plenty of brake fluid in it. It is important not to let the MC go dry as you are then attempting to pump air through the system. If that happens, you get to start over.
7. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until there is a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming out of the bleeder. When this happens, make sure end of tube is well submerged in the bleeder rig. Have assistant release brake pedal. Fluid will be drawn back up the line. Close valve. Wheel completed. If air gets drawn back up from the bleeder rig into the wheel cylinder, repeat procedure.
8. If there is air in multiple places in the system, the brake pedal may not be real solid, but it should be more solid each time a wheel cylinder is properly bled.
9. Move to next wheel in sequence and repeat steps 3 - 7.
Good luck & safe braking.
For the pal-in-the-car method, suggest you try this.
1. Bleed sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. Do not go to the next until each one is completed in this sequence.
2. Starting @ RR, gain access to the bleeder screw preferably with a box end wrench that fits snugly.
3. Have assistant in car pump brakes 4-5X and hold pedal down. Instruct assistant that pedal will drop when you open bleeder. When pedal begins to fall, continue to press slowly towards the floor. When pedal hits floor hold it there and let you know.
4. Open bleeder slowly until fluid comes out. Letting too much fluid out at once may trigger the proportioning valve to shut off that particular brake circuit in response to catastrophic failure.
5. When fluid quits coming out, close bleeder valve. Tell assistant to let brake pedal return to up position when valve is completely closed.
6. Check master cylinder to make sure there is plenty of brake fluid in it. It is important not to let the MC go dry as you are then attempting to pump air through the system. If that happens, you get to start over.
7. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until there is a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming out of the bleeder. When this happens, make sure end of tube is well submerged in the bleeder rig. Have assistant release brake pedal. Fluid will be drawn back up the line. Close valve. Wheel completed. If air gets drawn back up from the bleeder rig into the wheel cylinder, repeat procedure.
8. If there is air in multiple places in the system, the brake pedal may not be real solid, but it should be more solid each time a wheel cylinder is properly bled.
9. Move to next wheel in sequence and repeat steps 3 - 7.
Good luck & safe braking.
pauly v.100
Well-Known Member
the reason you couldn't remove the master cylinder is because the actuator rod (the rod from brake pedal to master cyl.) has a small O-ring deal on the master cyl. end that holds it in place and can sometimes be a pain to get loose. it simply pushes in and seats in the cup inside the master. give it a couple of good hard yanks and it should come out. replace it if it gets damaged.
When I had to remove the rear wheel clyinders, I had to remove the axle shafts. When I was done putting the wheel clyinders, I put the axle shaft, and I had a buddy check the oppsite side if the other axle was rotating. It did. Then I mounted the brakes. When I test drove the brakes, the rear end did something I never heard. It felt like the tires moved first, then the car moved. I didn't do a burn out, I just gentley relesed the clutch. Was I suppose to remove the diff cover and algin the axle shafts? Its a /6 (170) 3 on the tree. It's got a 7 1/4 rear end. The rear end didnt do a grinding sound, it just felt funny
player1up
Well-Known Member
I've never worked on a 67 but.... I'm confused, the axle shafts have to be removed to get the rear cyls off? and don't the axles have clips that hold them in the carrier?
-
