'68 318 to carbed Magnum 5.2: Check my checklist

-
I would be tempted to hit the buy it now button for that price, but check which fitting you have on the carb. I don't have a carter or eldebrock here to tell you what thread size.
 
I know they exist, had one on the carter competion series on the old 318 that was originally in my duster, just not sure of what thread the carb is.
But I do remember buying the fitting from summit.
Maybe give them a call?
 
33kekp0.jpg


Today saw the Satellite's very first run under its own power.

Still a few things to do before it's complete (PCV system, finished fuel line, compressor, 18" fan and shroud, etc), but it's more or less all there.

ins4up.jpg


That custom alternator bracket is gone. The spacing against the head just didn't work the way it was supposed to, and the slot was simply too large to work well. Metal seemed brittle too. I replaced it with one kicking around in the shed - I think it came from a Universal diesel engine. Looks the part effortlessly.

The 1406 was rejetted and fitted with springs and metering rods to 1405 stock specs. Conversion went like a charm.

One thing does have me concerned though - the 6.5psi max pressure requirement of the AFB carb. Since the AFB/AVS carbs were spec'ed new on these cars back in the day, I would assume the stock fuel pump adheres to this specification, though the stupid plastic fuel filter really makes me wonder about that.

bfpfrm.jpg


At any rate, I'm not keen on adding a regulator into the line - I don't want the added complexity or more potential leak spots.

One other problem: The throttle plates hang open on acceleration, which turned out to be the source of most of my high-idle/choke issues. Soon as I started pulling back on the pedal with my foot, the problems went away. Either the 2bbl return springs aren't cutting it, and/or the throttle cable housing isn't backed down far enough in its bracket.

The 904 is also slow to shift at times, but I'm pretty sure it's low on fluid - seems to have lost most of its fluid sitting in the driveway. That, and I need to get that all-important kickdown linkage (which a local Mopar guy says he can get for me for $50 - seems a bit high when the whole linkage can be had for $150).

Now that I've had the car over 2 mph, the shot tie rod ends are more apparent than ever. The Viper front brake conversion is next for this beast, so that'll all get taken care of at that point. Funny how I still ignore the weatherstripping, the shot driver's door latch, and the fact that the keys that I got for the car fit the ignition and trunk only - not the doors. Priorities, priorities :)

However, since this Lagnum (Maglam?) LA-roller-Magnum-headed 360 build is more or less done, I'm going to close this post with some celebratory beauty shots. Now that I can put the car anywhere under its own power, it's a lot easier to do!

149820x.jpg


30ryamd.jpg


1zntm4y.jpg


And one shot with an A-body to keep the natives happy :)
wv1zlx.jpg


I'll still drop in from time to time with updates, and the rest of the car's build will be at FBBO in this thread:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...e-4-door-light-refurb-and-big-fat-engine-swap

-Kurt
 
That car is clean, keep up the good work.
 
I know they exist, had one on the carter competion series on the old 318 that was originally in my duster, just not sure of what thread the carb is.
But I do remember buying the fitting from summit.
Maybe give them a call?

The Edelbrock's air horn's fuel inlet threads are supposed to be 5/8" - 20tpi, and the fuel line is 5/16 inverted flare.

This looks like just the ticket. Ordered one not a minute ago:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rochester-C...ash=item27d12218f1:g:syAAAOxyyF5RTN7O&vxp=mtr

-Kurt
 
Have plumbed the fuel line to stock 340 specs, but butting up against the lifter tick again.

I went ahead and pulled the driver's side valve cover and inspected the rockers. The lifter at the farthest back of the engine (exhaust valve, cylinder #7) caught my attention, as it won't compress when I put pressure on it with the pushrod. Zero play.

Even though this thing is non-adjustable, I chose to pull every rocker and pushrod, inspecting everything, then reinstalling it back together.

Well, I did that, and the whole thing clattered like HELL when I restarted it. Opened it up again and found some of the rockers super loose. From what I can tell, the lifters lost preload - but why didn't they pump up the second time around?

Going to close it up now and run it a bit with it clattering (at idle) to see if they finally pump up. At any rate, I foresee the intake coming off to replace the lifter on cylinder #7 (probably all of them so I don't have to rip everything apart again).

The only other thing of note that I remember is that the driver's side bank of lifters on this engine were completely different than the passenger's side. All appeared factory.

-Kurt
 
Just cranked it enough until oil came through the pushrods. Still loose.

Steenkin' lifters.

-Kurt
 
Maybe try running a quart of Rislone or Seafoam through it before tearing it apart...
 
Well, I just put it back together, and they're all STILL clattering away at idle.

I'm not mad that I have to take the intake off, but I am quite pissed that there's no apparent explanation for some of the lifters deciding to go bad all of a sudden.

-Kurt
 
You can dissemble and clean mag lifters.
There is a snap ring that holds the plunger in.
Actually they are easy to take apart.
Soak in mineral spirits overnight, clean and re-assembl.
You will not believe the garbage that comes out of them, for some reason they are the "trash collector of the engine".
Don't run it ticking, you will tear up pushrods and rocker arms.
 
You can dissemble and clean mag lifters.
There is a snap ring that holds the plunger in.
Actually they are easy to take apart.
Soak in mineral spirits overnight, clean and re-assembl.
You will not believe the garbage that comes out of them, for some reason they are the "trash collector of the engine".
Don't run it ticking, you will tear up pushrods and rocker arms.

Maybe so, but it makes more sense - timewise - to simply install a new set.

I can always fiddle about with the old ones another time.

-Kurt
 
Maybe so, but it makes more sense - timewise - to simply install a new set.

I can always fiddle about with the old ones another time.

-Kurt


Be prepared for sticker shock on a new set.
 
$89 from RockAuto (Engine Quest), $184 from Advance (Sealed Power).

I can hack the RockAuto price.

-Kurt

That's a good price.. My cost +10% at O'Really's : ( employee discount.. Was still more than that, three years ago. Rock Auto's good to deal with,bought my windshield & matching weatherstrip there.)
 
2prd6oi.jpg


15d0saq.jpg


Tore it apart today. Exhaust lifter on #7 is jammed in the pumped-up position. #3 and #5's exhaust lifters don't pump up when cranked.

The passenger's side bank, by comparison, has no problem.

This brings to mind one detail that I remember when I tore this engine open - that the passenger side lifters had all been changed, and the driver's side had not:

epkbhw.jpg


I have a suspicion the passenger's side bank was replaced already.

That said, one other thing comes to mind - the oiling hole on both of these lifters are at 90 degrees to the dogbone flats, in that I can't point the lifters upwards as everyone seems to recommend.

From online photos, I'm almost suspicious that these are not the right lifters, except for the fact that the lone Federal Mogul replacement that I bought from Rock Auto (the one that was scraping the bore and I didn't use) was angled the same way.

Should these point forwards or backwards then?

-Kurt
 
Well, this does explain something:

I just installed a set of 8 brand-new Sealed Power lifters - oiling hole up - on the driver's side, then reinstalled the spider and the pushrods. Cranked the engine.

No oil to any of the driver's side rockers. Nothing. And they're not pumping up. In the meantime, the passenger's side has no shortage of oil to the rockers; it's a geyser.

Restriction in the line? Spun cam bearing?

I'm probably going to pull all the lifters and the spark plugs tomorrow, and spin the engine without the lifters. See if oil gets through the lifter bores at all.

-Kurt
 
You actually have me confused on no oil to the drivers side.
Mags oil thru the push rods to the rockers.
The lifters have to be defective.
Spun cam bearing would loose oil pressure to the whole engine, and the passenger side would have no oil also.
Here is a pic of a new roller for a mag, I assume yours look like these?

muqGt5.jpg
 
You actually have me confused on no oil to the drivers side.
Mags oil thru the push rods to the rockers.
The lifters have to be defective.
Spun cam bearing would loose oil pressure to the whole engine, and the passenger side would have no oil also.
Here is a pic of a new roller for a mag, I assume yours look like these?

The driver's side rocker arms and pushrods are getting zero oil - that's with both the lifters that were in there (which were oiling previously) and the new Sealed Power replacements.

Yes, they look just like those Oil through and oiling port to the top on the new ones. The old ones have oiling ports to the side (see last photo in my previous post above).

-Kurt
 
????
The lifters that were in the engine when you bought it, and the new ones have no oil to the rockers correct?
What did the lobes on the cam look like?
 
????
The lifters that were in the engine when you bought it, and the new ones have no oil to the rockers correct?
What did the lobes on the cam look like?

Correct - both the lifters that came out and the lifters that went in today don't have any oil to the rockers.

However, before all this went to heck, I did witness the old lifters delivering oil, before flow gave out entirely.

Lobes on the cam look like new. No galling or anything, just the usual change in color where the rollers spin. Believe me, it's not that. These things haven't pumped up at all - you can press the rocker and move the spring in the lifter a good 1/8" if not more.

I highly suspect the gallery got plugged with something. Just don't know what or where.

-Kurt
 
I think you may be correct on a plugged gallery unless somebody can provide another explanation.
That motor looked clean, so I really do not suspect sludge, was there any gasket made with RTV when you tore it apart?
RTV is good and bad depending on how it was applied.
 
I think you may be correct on a plugged gallery unless somebody can provide another explanation.
That motor looked clean, so I really do not suspect sludge, was there any gasket made with RTV when you tore it apart?
RTV is good and bad depending on how it was applied.

The end seals for the intake were done with The Right Stuff, which is definitely the "Right Stuff" to clog an oil gallery if it did so. I can't imagine any RTV ball getting through the sump screen at the bottom of the pan though.

There is a remote possibility it might be part of the seized lifter from cylinder #7, but I doubt it.

Now the fun part of getting it out. Whatever it is (though it'll probably be RTV). I'm considering opening the plug at the back of the gallery and put a vacuum to it - see if anything comes out. Not really keen on having to open the front end of the engine and pull the welch plug in front if I don't have to (but probably will end up doing).

-Kurt
 
1zlawdh.jpg


^
Photo isn't important given the findings, but the freeze-frame of Cylinder #1 shooting oil through it's bore is pretty neat.

That said, some interesting things discovered today:

#1: Pulled cylinder #1's lifters and cranked the engine. Tons of oil coming through bore. Ditto for the rest of the bores on the driver's side.

Conclusion: No oil restrictions here. Lifter problem.

#2: Swapped cylinder #2's lifters over to cylinder #1, and #1 to #2. The lifters from cylinder #2 shot oil without issue in cylinder #1's position, and #1's lifters now didn't pump up in #2's spot.

Conclusion: New lifters not pumping up.

#3: Pulled out a random set of the old driver's side lifters (making sure not to pick the jammed one), stuffed them in the Cylinder #2 bores, with the oil holes clocked forward (remember, these are the lifters with the holes pointing at a 90-degree angle to the dogbone). I put pressure on them with my fingers to prevent them from popping past the oiling hole. After a few cranks, they started squirting oil.

Conclusion: At least one set of old lifters are pumping up.

So...

I don't know what caused the left side lifters not to pump up after I fiddled with the rockers on that side a few days ago. Perhaps the pushrods are pumping air back into them.

With that in mind, I tried this:

#4: I reinstalled all the passenger's side lifters, pushrods, and bores back onto the engine so that they'd oil properly (as they did), and the new lifters on the driver's side. Then I cranked the engine and kept the driver's side lifters pushed down (with my fingers) at the cylinder #1 position.

Nothing.

I'm going to pull the driver's side lifters out and let them soak throughout the day. Perhaps it's trapped air.

-Kurt
 
-
Back
Top