'69 Dart 4spd floor pan

[eccentricMagpies]

Last night after gutting out the interiror, I see I need new floor pans for the dart I just picked up. (not a huge surprise)

What would I have to remove to get a full floor pan inside? windsheild and dash instruments?

I'm thinking of getting the side by sides floor pans since the hump is in, what appears, solid shape. It seems these might simply fit through the door?

I can post pictures but my main question was the entry of the pans.

Also, lets say I can bring the full floor inside. It seems I'm going to be cutting it up to install the 4 speed hump anyhow. So either I cut out the 4 speed hump or I cut the existing floor along the full hump to install the side by sides???
Does that seem right? I guess I don't see what is gained (maybe a little less welding/cutting with the full pan?)

Sorry, new at this and decided to do it myself since I have the room. tools, i'll worry about along the way. And... i have a charger I know will need this same thing when I come back to it.

Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
John

 

[eccentricMagpies]

okay, i think i found what I was looking for with some searching...

two piece there is a lot more welding and measuring, one piece is more convienent after the removal of the windsheild.. and... since my windsheild is cracked, probably has to come out anyhow.

Would the dash be okay to leave in?

 

[OKDart]

On a 2 door hardtop, with both side windows rolled down, it should slide right in. It did on my '70 Charger anyway. One other thing to consider is cost of part and shipping. A 2 or 4 piece set is alot cheaper to ship. A full floor is truck freight. If you order everything you need for both cars together in one order, it's one shipping charge. Probably about $90 freight. I ordered $4000 worth of metal and it was palletized on one pallet and cost $90 to my door.

Don't know why you'd need to remove the dash, I would think just the seats, carpet, and side panels. I did my Charger while it was gutted though, so maybe it just seemed easier than it is.

The benefit of a full floor is it's hard to tell it's been replaced (no seams or overlaps), and no cutting. Just drill or grind the spot welds and pop them with an air chisel.

Consider adding subframe connectors while replacing the floor, it's the best time to do it if going with contoured or through the floor connectors.

I used AMD floors in my Charger, quality was good, but the forward seam to meet the firewall only has about half the length as the original, no big deal though.

 

[Dodge33]

Since your pulling the windshield out...... you might as well go ahead and pull the complete dash assembly out too, because you will thank yourself many time's, as you will not have to work around and underneath it either. The more working room the merrier. It's a lot less welding and work to use a 1 piece floorpan from AMD or find a good used one.

 

[crackedback]

I tried to get a complete floor pan out the front windshield on a Duster and it wouldn't go. Had to pull it out the window opening with the rear side window pulled. The dash was already out. Nice thing with a Dart, floor pan has a split in rear foot well area, easier to manage.

You're probably going to have to do the same on a complete pan. The dash will likely have to come out.

If I had my choice, I'd do the complete pan and attach the hump vs finishing a bunch of buttwelds.

 

[Marshall]

i did a full pan on my 67 2 door dart just by sliding it thru the open windows area. i also welded it in with the back window, windshield and dash in just covered everything i didn't want to burn with a welding blanket and it seemed to go very well only draw back was the front where you meet the firewall was tricky with the lack of space but it is 100% possible.

 

[eccentricMagpies]

On a 2 door hardtop, with both side windows rolled down, it should slide right in. It did on my '70 Charger anyway. One other thing to consider is cost of part and shipping. A 2 or 4 piece set is alot cheaper to ship. A full floor is truck freight. If you order everything you need for both cars together in one order, it's one shipping charge. Probably about $90 freight. I ordered $4000 worth of metal and it was palletized on one pallet and cost $90 to my door.

Don't know why you'd need to remove the dash, I would think just the seats, carpet, and side panels. I did my Charger while it was gutted though, so maybe it just seemed easier than it is.

The benefit of a full floor is it's hard to tell it's been replaced (no seams or overlaps), and no cutting. Just drill or grind the spot welds and pop them with an air chisel.

Consider adding subframe connectors while replacing the floor, it's the best time to do it if going with contoured or through the floor connectors.

I used AMD floors in my Charger, quality was good, but the forward seam to meet the firewall only has about half the length as the original, no big deal though.

Thanks everyone for all of the information.
As long was we are on the Charger... it makes sense on what you are saying to order everything I need up front and save on all of the shipping especially if I need a full floor (which I feel I do for the Dart)


As long as we are on the charger.... I think i can get away with partial floors since it seems to be contained in the front only of the car. This one will need some good fender and quarter repairs but I do have some new tabco quarters for it, so I have a good start already with that one.

http://s938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/EccentricMagpies/Second 74 Charger/