69 Dart fuel gauge

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NO they do not............operate in accessory. Read your wiring diagram. The feed for the cluster IVR comes off IGN1. IGN1 is "igntion run" and is ONLY hot in "run."


Temp and fuel, and if you have a Ralleye cluster, the oil gauge all operate at same time. So if you suspect one is not working, look for "the other"
 
67Dart273 said:
NO they do not............operate in accessory. Read your wiring diagram. The feed for the cluster IVR comes off IGN1. IGN1 is "igntion run" and is ONLY hot in "run."


Temp and fuel, and if you have a Ralleye cluster, the oil gauge all operate at same time. So if you suspect one is not working, look for "the other"
Click to expand...
I'm at a loss then. It's a new harness circuit board and gauges.Will it do any damage the way it is.
 
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Is this a factory replacement harness or "universal?"

All gauges except the ammeter follow a common circuit

The IGN1 (dark blue) feeds power to the IVR or "voltage limiter" which then feeds power to the 2 or three gauges depending on Ralleye or not.

Each gauge has a sender terminal which goes off to that sender, and to ground. "Handily" they all three share the same resistance scale, meaning "so much" sender resistance to ground gives you say, 1/2 scale on the meter

So if temp works and not fuel, or vice versa, start by pulling the sender wire off and grounding it. Turn the key to "run" and the gauge should waste no time in getting to full or hot

There are nuts on the meter studs which contact the PC board. My car had corrosion there. Loosen/ tighten/ loosen the nuts several times to scrub them clean, might even replace the "fake" nuts with real ones.

So it could be the sender, sender wire/ bulkhead connector (temp not fuel), the gauge studs/ nuts, and the gauge itself.
 
67Dart273 said:
Is this a factory replacement harness or "universal?"

All gauges except the ammeter follow a common circuit

The IGN1 (dark blue) feeds power to the IVR or "voltage limiter" which then feeds power to the 2 or three gauges depending on Ralleye or not.

Each gauge has a sender terminal which goes off to that sender, and to ground. "Handily" they all three share the same resistance scale, meaning "so much" sender resistance to ground gives you say, 1/2 scale on the meter

So if temp works and not fuel, or vice versa, start by pulling the sender wire off and grounding it. Turn the key to "run" and the gauge should waste no time in getting to full or hot

There are nuts on the meter studs which contact the PC board. My car had corrosion there. Loosen/ tighten/ loosen the nuts several times to scrub them clean, might even replace the "fake" nuts with real ones.

So it could be the sender, sender wire/ bulkhead connector (temp not fuel), the gauge studs/ nuts, and the gauge itself.
Click to expand...
We have confirmed by doing those test that there is a problem with the fuel sender. Will having power to them in accessory do any damage.
 
67Dart273 said:
NO they do not............operate in accessory. Read your wiring diagram. The feed for the cluster IVR comes off IGN1. IGN1 is "igntion run" and is ONLY hot in "run."


Temp and fuel, and if you have a Ralleye cluster, the oil gauge all operate at same time. So if you suspect one is not working, look for "the other"
Click to expand...
Yes the gas gauge does work in accessory mode. Mines been working that way for 48 years.
 
416stroker said:
Yes the gas gauge does work in accessory mode. Mines been working that way for 48 years.
Click to expand...
If it did someone has changed something. The FACTORY wiring is fed off the J2 circuit, dark blue, which is "ignition."

I'm not going to argue with you. Look it up. It's right there in the wiring diagram.
 
67Dart273 said:
If it did someone has changed something. The FACTORY wiring is fed off the J2 circuit, dark blue, which is "ignition."

I'm not going to argue with you. Look it up. It's right there in the wiring diagram.
Click to expand...
I'm not going to argue with you either. Nothing has changed with my FACTORY wiring, it's always been that way. Nuff said.
 
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