most everything in this thread applys to your question...
http://forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=25520
Some gaskets have an interlocking design and some have a removable lock cord . Some have both. The glass went in from bottom up so it needs to be removed from top down. A razor blade holder type paint scraper has just a fraction too much blade exposed to shove straight in seperating the sealant/gasket from the glass A quarter inch is channel depth. Dont cut rubber !
Spray silicone in there as you go around inside and out to prevent sealant from rebonnding behind you. Once everything is loose and moving get a helper and both push evenly across the top.The large inner lip of the gasket should come away from the headlinner. Get fingers behind it and hekp it roll in your favor.You can "
have that baby" it dont want to come out but it will. By the way, hotter the weather the better. pros use a heat gun but I'm afraid to got there. I could burn paint, headlinner,etc..
The first one I removed was '67 notchback in a junkyard. I wanted gasket and stainless trim only.Owner said break that glass and you bought it. I ued a spray bottle of silicone the cleanup shop guys called "
goat milk". Left the glass laying on top the spare in trunk.
The gasket can be cleaned to like new condition with a lot of time and effort. Dont submerge it in a bucket of kerosene (a friends big mistake). I'll use oven cleaner, scotchbrite, water to start, then use charcoal lighter fluid and rags for final wipe down. If it takes 3 days of my spare time to clean a gasket I saved $100 +. If I did cut the rubber in a couple small spots I'll repair it with the gel type super glue.
