I have a 1969 Dodge Dart with an 86 360 four barrel high rise aluminum intake. I bought the car about 6 months ago and it had a flex fan on the waterpump and a 10" assist fan infront of the radiator. The guy i bought it from said he had to use the electric fan when he was riding in the hot summer weather down in Jacksonville, since then weve added the AC unit and after we put the condensor on the front we had to take the electric fan off - it still wants to run warm with the AC off, when you stop or are idling the temperature proceeds to climb, so we removed the flex fan and installed a 17" electric fan as long as youre driving theres not much of a problem, but the time you start stopping for in town traffic the temperature starts rising and doesnt want to cool off. I had the radiator cleaned then i replaced the radiator with a 2 1in flue aluminum radiator which came with a shroud and 2 10" 3000cfm fans which they were too thick, so i had to remove the shroud and the fans and put the electric fan back on and the temperature is still climbing with the AC off, does any one have an idea on what i can do now? It has a new waterpump as well. The engine was supposedly rebuilt.
69 Dodge Dart (trying to run hot)
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So are you saying that you're back to 1 of 17"electric fan and no shroud? So the only difference is the new rad?
That would be back to square one. Right?
A key clue is when you said that as long as its moving its not much of a problem. This indicates that you have a low-speed airflow problem.As in not enough airflow through the rad.The cheapest and most reliable cure is to run a big, mechanical 6 or 7 blade, hi-pitch, direct-drive, shrouded fan.(And maybe try to increase the pump speed through pulley selection).Make sure as much of the air as hits the front of the car is forced to go through the rad, and not allowed around it.
Bumping the initial timing can help as well; especially if you're running a bit of a cam. The bigger the cam, the more initial. My rule of thumb is to take 40% of the last two digits of the 050 cam-size, and add 5 to arrive at a ballpark initial timing. A stockish cam of 200*@050 would thus ballpark at 5*. A 220cam would ballpark at 13*. A 240*cam would ballpark at 21*. Adding A/C could use an extra 5*.
When messing with initial timing, the power-timing has to be limited to about 35* . A faulty vacuum advance system can also make it run warmer at low speeds.The can needs to bring in as much timing as possible and as fast as possible, without getting into detonation, when rolling on the throttle.
Personally, I would never run an electric fan on a street car.It takes a lot of electric fan to equal even a small factory mechanical system.And it sucks up a pretty good amount of the charging system life.And when it fails, you are walking, as opposed to popping on a new belt.And belts are cheap.
That would be back to square one. Right?
A key clue is when you said that as long as its moving its not much of a problem. This indicates that you have a low-speed airflow problem.As in not enough airflow through the rad.The cheapest and most reliable cure is to run a big, mechanical 6 or 7 blade, hi-pitch, direct-drive, shrouded fan.(And maybe try to increase the pump speed through pulley selection).Make sure as much of the air as hits the front of the car is forced to go through the rad, and not allowed around it.
Bumping the initial timing can help as well; especially if you're running a bit of a cam. The bigger the cam, the more initial. My rule of thumb is to take 40% of the last two digits of the 050 cam-size, and add 5 to arrive at a ballpark initial timing. A stockish cam of 200*@050 would thus ballpark at 5*. A 220cam would ballpark at 13*. A 240*cam would ballpark at 21*. Adding A/C could use an extra 5*.
When messing with initial timing, the power-timing has to be limited to about 35* . A faulty vacuum advance system can also make it run warmer at low speeds.The can needs to bring in as much timing as possible and as fast as possible, without getting into detonation, when rolling on the throttle.
Personally, I would never run an electric fan on a street car.It takes a lot of electric fan to equal even a small factory mechanical system.And it sucks up a pretty good amount of the charging system life.And when it fails, you are walking, as opposed to popping on a new belt.And belts are cheap.
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