69 Formula S 383 Clutch Question.

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Moparaley

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Bought my original 383 4 speed car a few months ago from a FABO member (great car)and have been getting it road worthy. Years ago he mentioned he smoked the clutch a bit. Doing ??? Not sure. As I drive it, it hooks fine in all gears but first. In first if you dump the clutch it really doesn't hook well and shakes pretty hard. I priced a Mcleod setup with Brewers but just want some opinions on what I'm seeing. I'm kinda surprised that it pulls fine in the rest of the gears if it's truly slipping much. Car is very drivable as is, just won't smoke the tires. Pedal is adjusted so it engages/disengages fairly high up on pedal release.

BTW, also has 3.23 sure grip gears.

Thanks!!
 
Clutch is toast!
 
I put in a Centerforce clutch in my 69 383-s and was very pleased with it. Easy pedal pressure and hooked up well. You will need to remove the overcenter spring if you go with the diaphragm style clutch.
 
The shudder could be rear suspension related, ie weak springs and/or wheelhop. Make sure that you are not confusing those. Make sure there is some freeplay on the pedal, and that the rear tranny mount is 100%,and that the pinion snubber is installed.

I agree with you that if it slips in 1st it should be worse in higher gears at the same rpm. I've driven loaded grain-trucks that didnt slip 'til 3rd.

BTW; a good 383 with 3.23s and a 4-speed should annihilate any size tires you can fit into a stock A-body wheelhouse; both sides. And 2 gears. So if yours is not doing that, I suspect it's not slipping the clutch; OR I'm reading your symptoms wrong.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The shudder could be rear suspension related, ie weak springs and/or wheelhop. Make sure that you are not confusing those. Make sure there is some freeplay on the pedal, and that the rear tranny mount is 100%,and that the pinion snubber is installed.

I agree with you that if it slips in 1st it should be worse in higher gears at the same rpm. I've driven loaded grain-trucks that didnt slip 'til 3rd.

BTW; a good 383 with 3.23s and a 4-speed should annihilate any size tires you can fit into a stock A-body wheelhouse; both sides. And 2 gears. So if yours is not doing that, I suspect it's not slipping the clutch; OR I'm reading your symptoms wrong.
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It is definitely in the clutch area where the shake is. There is some free play at the pedal on return. Not much though. I'll check out the rear tranny mount but I've had those go bad in the past and normally you will also get a continual vibration running down the road because of drive train misalignment. Snubber is installed.
 
What clutch is in it?
A couple things you can look for if it's a B&B style.
Pull the inspection cover and fork boot.
Check all the pressure plate mounting bolts first.
As you turn the flywheel, if possible, note the location of the pressure plate against the disc. Should be almost even all around
Try to verify the release bearing contacts all three fingers at the same time.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The smell of a slipping clutch is very distinctive and unmistakable.
Click to expand...

It does have that nice clutch smokin' smell when you get on it real hard and it shakes. It must also need the flywheel surfaced cause it appears there are good spots and bad on it.
 
I have had the Centerforce 2 clutch in my 69 340S since about 1993 and never removed the overcenter spring. it always works nice and is smooth and has a close-to-stock pedal. A very good clutch and pressure plate assembly it is!.
Tom
 
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