69 Valiant For sale-Nebraska

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alan627b

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Not mine but I saw this and figured I would pass it along.. it's a twin to the car I'm building (very slowly) right now, right down to the optioning and original color . I sure wish I could get this one too.. maybe one of you can and we'll see it here! Good luck.
http://lincoln.craigslist.org/bar/3126312507.html
Lower picture is it.

A little work and it could easily look like the ones in the pics. Get after it!
 

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Looks to be a good starting point and the price is reasonable.
I wouldn't doubt that $1000 would buy it.......
 
I live in Lincoln, and sent an email asking if it was still for sale. If I get a reply and it's still around I'll go check it out.
 
He emailed some more pics to me, which I'll post below. Looks like it needs front floors and a torsion bar crossmember, besides the obvious quarter/fender work. If I wasn't holding out for a '67 cuda coupe I would consider this car for $400-500.

If you're interested just respond to his craigslist ad please.

1968chevy010.jpg


69valiant003.jpg


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I guess that's why it pays to yank up the carpeting.. from the outside it looks better than mine did when I got it but a hell of a lot worse under the skin. From his pictures you wouldn't think it was that bad.. usually something in this shape in Nebraska also has the invisible spare tire well.
Thanks for the heads up!

Alan
 
Maybe alot of work

I think you called it correctly, but it's not like there is a lot of raw material floating around anymore. I'm thinking his pricing is a "bit" optimistic however.

From what I've seen, the next hobby vehicle in this class is pre-98 Dakotas.. I saw one magazine calling them the Duster 340 of the 90's.. I have seen some people get some good deals on the low option ones and make neat rods out of them.
God forbid it if the magazines find out..

Alan
 
Hi Guy's Just so we are all clear the torsion bar cross member is in VERY good condition. It will need front floor pans (L,R) and 12" of frame that runs towards the front of the car. All these parts are available at Year One for under 350.00. This car is a good start. Like my add said this car has not been started or driven since 1983 or4 .This car is up for barter.
 
69 Valiant, I meant no offense..
I hope me posting it here helps you sell it.. everything else on it looks way better than the one I started with. if I had a place in the country or a bigger garage I'd love to add it to my collection.. and having money would help too. I have enough stuff lying around to get a good start on another one! A nice bath with some good cleaner would probably make it look a lot better. Most of what else I can see looks like surface rust or minor scale. Folks have started with much worse on this forum. And in Nebraska, it isn't easy to find much of anything.
Good luck with the sale.
Is that bad paint on the trunk or moss?

Alan
 
Hi Guy's Just so we are all clear the torsion bar cross member is in VERY good condition. It will need front floor pans (L,R) and 12" of frame that runs towards the front of the car. All these parts are available at Year One for under 350.00. This car is a good start. Like my add said this car has not been started or driven since 1983 or4 .This car is up for barter.

Sorry for the confusion about the frame rot, thought I saw a through hole in one of the close-up pics.

Anyway, this only reveals a more serious issue. Frame rail rot is much more time consuming and expensive to repair than what's needed for a crossmember. Your choices as far as I know are:

(1) a clean full frame rail from a donor vehicle, tacked in place and then finish welded on a frame machine (how I would want it done)

(2) patch in some metal where it's rotted, like the frame rail cap from Year One, and hope it hasn't weakened the structure or comes back to haunt you in a few years (not what I would want done, but I'm kinda picky when it comes to repairs)

(3) full frame replacement, like pro-street or pro-touring ($$$)

(4) frame replacement, like above, but only the front


Chances are you're gonna have to take a loss on the whole car, or spend some time parting it out to make your investment back. Sucks, and it's a hard lesson, but I guess you can be thankful you learned it on a $1500 Valiant and not a $20k+ Ebay "restored" musclecar.
 
The floor is almost always gone on a rubber mat car.
It's not that hard or expensive to repair.
The frame rail is a little trickier, but not that bad either.
Remember, they aren't making these cars any more, but there is a lot of parts out there for them for cheap if you know where to look!
 
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