7 1/4" cleaning/servicing

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63 Hurst Valiant

63 Hurst Valiant

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Joined
Dec 10, 2017
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Oregon House, CA 95962
Getting the housing ready to paint and all, trying to decide whether I should take the axles and gears out or leave them in. Everything functions fine by hand. Due to not having any brakes, I haven't moved the car under it's own weight so I have no idea how it reacts with power of any kind.

Basically wondering what any of you guys typically do when you get an old, used rear end.

Car will be my new daily so should I replace the bearings and seals?
 
I have one on a stand, to go in my barracuda.
Will be stripping it down,new seals and will inspect for any worn parts. While its out and easy to work on why not?
If i have to do pinion bearings it will go in car before i torque the pinion. Need a fixture of sorts to torque it as its quite a pull to squeeze the crush sleeve for preload. If it has, never looked into the parts yet.
 
Yup,i remeber as a kid, buddy’s dads duster axle bearing failed and it walked out of the housing.
 
66jim said:
axel bearings RWF34R do go bad on these, remove axels and press them on as long
as its apart
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Tooljunkie said:
Yup,i remeber as a kid, buddy’s dads duster axle bearing failed and it walked out of the housing.
Click to expand...

That's good to know. I'll just have to find a place to press my bearings since that's out of my backyard mechanic range.
 
Aside from the pinion gear and the diff cost... Hope they're good, what's a good estimated cost of bearings and seals to redo the whole rear end per say? Just watched a Chrysler/Mopar video on servicing my rear end and it seems like the idea is to replace it all with the right spacers, etc. Maybe I'm thinking too much.
 
I would NOT even change anything more than the gear oil unless necessary.

Sometimes they go a zillion miles with no issues.

Some gear oil might be all you need and you might get off cheap.
 
You can inspect the bearings when you pull the axles. You will want to change the axle seals, its only a couple bucks and it sucks when they leak gear oil all over your brakes.
Remember to add friction modifier if its a sure grip.
 
JeffisOld said:
I would NOT even change anything more than the gear oil unless necessary.

Sometimes they go a zillion miles with no issues.

Some gear oil might be all you need and you might get off cheap.
Click to expand...

I was checking it earlier today and figured that's what I'll just do. No play in anything just a little aggravated that who ever last sealed the diff plate didn't use a seal, just a whopping amount of make-a-gasket. Which makes me wonder, is just gasket maker an okay substitute?
 
MoparMike1974 said:
You can inspect the bearings when you pull the axles. You will want to change the axle seals, its only a couple bucks and it sucks when they leak gear oil all over your brakes.
Remember to add friction modifier if its a sure grip.
Click to expand...

Highly doubt my car has sure grip. Would be something if it did. I man handled this rear end every which way and no leaks visible any where.
 
Suregrips are uncommon in 7.25 rear but they are out there. Cant say I have ever run across one myself.
 
Thats all i ever use to seal diff housings. Ultra black or ultra grey.
Used odd job on a front diff cover on my 4x4 years ago,it was a beast to get off a couple weeks later after i got the new parts.
Its not easy to find around here any more.
Use it on fwd trans pans too
 
Tooljunkie said:
Thats all i ever use to seal diff housings. Ultra black or ultra grey.
Used odd job on a front diff cover on my 4x4 years ago,it was a beast to get off a couple weeks later after i got the new parts.
Its not easy to find around here any more.
Use it on fwd trans pans too
Click to expand...

THIS MAN SPEAKS THE TRUTH!

That's not an unacceptable seal at all. I raced in mud bogs for years and used to change the gear oil every month sometimes.

NEVER had an issue!

Hell on SBC's RTV is all that's used on the front and back intake seals.
 
Guy i knew way back when used to blow up chevy small block on a weekly basis. All he ever bought was head gaskets, the rest he sealed with good rtv.
Never leaked (except when rod would go through something)

His old man,in his booming ukrainian accent “you should put ving nuts on de bellhousing”

We use that remark to this day...
 
Yeah those SBC connecting rods...

...that just an oil change indicator system Duntov was testing!
 
Ultra anything. I apply a 3/16” bead to cover then let it sit while i clean mating surface/drink coffee.
5-10 minutes. Then snug it up. No leaks.
 
Unless its limited slip, that oil will be fine.
I run 80/90 in everything unless otherwise specified.
 
Well,a limited slip 7-1/4” is nice to have.friction modifier will prevent chatter when cornering,as long as the oil has it you will be good to go. Most gear oil has it already added.
 
Oh,and here’s where i throw in some useless information. I knew this before there was a google, friction modifier was made from sperm whale oil up until the early 70’s. Heard of guys going to the wrecking yards and draining diffs to get that particular oil. Aparrently it had a unique smell to it.
 
You said sperm!
IMG_1717.JPG
 
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