Ya, this is gonna be an easy one, but for the life of me I can't get this nut off. I've been at this for two days now and going out of my mind. Is this thing reverse threaded? It doesn't look like it is too me. How are you guys getting this main nuts off these things?
7.25 Rear End Question
- Thread starter Travis G.
- Start date
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First off, you need a pinion yoke wrench. Most are the type that bolt on at the U joint strap holes, but I personally like this type. Then an impact wrench is the preferred method (the larger the better) but you can use a 3/4 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar, and a large (at least four feet, the longer the better) cheater bar. Just be careful not to pull the vehicle on top of yourself trying to break it loos like that. But I just have to ask, why are you taking it off, though? Are you planning on replacing bearings, rebuilding the rear axle?
Demonic
Well-Known Member
Looks like you need a pinion seal. A long breaker bar or impact, as stated above. Standard threads.
circlepilot
Well-Known Member
Blast! and a BIG impact wrench.
Ya like Demonic said, a new pinion seal and bearing are in order. The seal leaked all the fluid out while it was parked and one Wal-Mart run later I have a rear end louder then a hound dog. Bought bearings and seals to do the whole job because of the "while i'm here" factor. Its just been a few years since my last rear end job and my service manual is now where to be found. Sadly I don't have much in the way of impact (Compressor is down right now), so some PB Blaster and fatty cheater is what I see in my future. Thanks for all the advice, not to pull the vehicle on top of myself is no sh*t, I though I was getting somewhere for a second but it was the car moving...
Okay, so I see you've already got the crush sleeve accounted for too. You'll need a case spreader to stretch the housing only enough (Very little, consult a FSM how much) to get the carrier out. You also need to set up a dial indicator to make sure you don't spread the housing too far. I would be surprised if your r&p us still usable if you've been near dry on fluid for any length of time.
James Camp
no mopar
Use PB blaster ,and plenty of it, let it set over night, i didn't have a pinion yoke wrench, i used a large pipe wrench to hold pinion, then a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe, and the warning about dont pull the car down on you is definately correct, i had mine on a kwik lift on all 4 tires and the car slid to the side and lucky the back quarter panel hit the side of the garage, or it would have tumbled on the floor and myself, best i remember the thing torques at 210 ft/lbs with a new crush sleeve, so the old one has rust and if it was torqued at proper spec you can then realize what it will take to break it loose. A large impact versus breaker bar and pipe is the safest if you have access to borrow or rent one
Heat it with a propane torch. You wont get it hot enough to cause any damage. that being said, you will need lots of torque to get the crush sleeve past breakover. Some as much as 450 foot-lbs. and you have to sneak up on pinion preload. Doesent take much to overshoot the max rolling torque. I have never needed a case spreader. I overcome that with a prybar to get it apart and a dead blow hammer to get it back together.
See if you can rent or borrow an electric impact wrench, at least 1/2". Harbor Freight has electric for less than $100. I bought the battery one, but it was not cheap. If you plan on doing work on the car there are stubborn bolts on these old cars every thing you work on especially front end work. Might even be able to try auto stores might have one to lend, Auto Zone, advance, Napa etc. Good luck.
On top of the spec torque to begin crushing the pinion sleeve to spec, the factory also staked the pinion nuts in place after torquing. Not uncommon to take in excess of 650 lb/ft of torque to break one loose. The electric impact wrench is your best friend.
pishta
I know I'm right....
6 feet of breaker bar (1" rigid pipe) even gives Rani 600 ft/lbs torque! Also gets you out from under the car. Secure yoke with a 24" pipe wrench hitting the ground on the driver side. Ratchet that thing as high as it will go as it will flex.
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