70 340 block/ 73 crank and balancer

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Majestic

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I have been looking for pullies to work on my 70 340 Ac car. I have had no luck. I found out my harmonic balancer and crank may be a 73 cast crank. I put a 2500 stall convertor in the car but has no weights on it. I'm guessing it's not balanced. I have drove the car and haven't really notice any vibration. Do you think I will have to change the stall? Does anybody know where I can get a 73 340 crank and water pump pully? Apparently they are different with that year.
 
I would go through it and make sure that you have all the proper parts or know what you have and where you want to go before buying everything....


If you have a forged crank damper, why not get a forged 340 crank for it. I can find some forged 340 cranks, but no cast ones....

Mancini Eagle Cranks:

http://www.manciniracing.com/eaglespecialty1.html


Mancini Mopar Performance Cranks:

http://www.manciniracing.com/mope8.html



For the pulley, check here:

http://www.manciniracing.com/wapupu1.html

http://bouchillonperformance.com/crankshaft_pulleys
 
Well I have a cast crank and harmonic balancer. Just need pulleys and to know if I need to change my 2500 stall that don't have weights.
 
If there isn't a vibration, then why worry about the converter???

I would focus on getting the pulleys straight....


(Don't create a problem that may not be one...)
 
That's what I was hoping to do as long as it doesn't break something. Now the search for a 73 340 pully set for ac car.
 
If you decide to get the engine balance right, then you can put in a flexplate that has the external (im)balance and keep your non-weighted torque converter. I am rather curious why anyone would not put the right external balance parts in at both ends ....... ?? You may not feel it, but your butt is not a calibrated measuring device, and your crank is no doubt seeing added stress. If you lean on it, the price may be a broken crank over the long term. But, at least it is the 340; the external balance weights are much smaller than the 360; probably why it is hard for you to feel.

Here is a B&M external balance flexplate for the 340:
http://www.bmracing.com/products/10...71-to-1976-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-w-340-cid/

Compare that to the 360 flexplate to see how much more external balance weight there is for the 360:
http://www.bmracing.com/products/10...h-w-360-cid/?mk=40&yr=1973&md=287&smd=20&eng=
 
Does the front of your balancer say "Use with 340 crank only". It would be on the counter weight facing the radiator, you can't miss it.
 
Does the front of your balancer say "Use with 340 crank only". It would be on the counter weight facing the radiator, you can't miss it.

Yes it does. Know where I can get those pulleys for a ac car
 
If you decide to get the engine balance right, then you can put in a flexplate that has the external (im)balance and keep your non-weighted torque converter. I am rather curious why anyone would not put the right external balance parts in at both ends ....... ?? You may not feel it, but your butt is not a calibrated measuring device, and your crank is no doubt seeing added stress. If you lean on it, the price may be a broken crank over the long term. But, at least it is the 340; the external balance weights are much smaller than the 360; probably why it is hard for you to feel.

Here is a B&M external balance flexplate for the 340:
http://www.bmracing.com/products/10...71-to-1976-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-w-340-cid/

Compare that to the 360 flexplate to see how much more external balance weight there is for the 360:
http://www.bmracing.com/products/10...h-w-360-cid/?mk=40&yr=1973&md=287&smd=20&eng=


Ok thanks, I'm gonna check that flex plate out.
 
Yes it does. Know where I can get those pulleys for a ac car

The pulleys you want would be off any 318/340/360 from 70 up till like 78 or so. The balancer has nothing to do with your pulley setup. Look up member "whitepunkonnitro" on this site, send him a PM, and he can hook you up with all the pulleys, brackets, spacers ect at one shot! Not expensive that way either.
 
The pulleys you want would be off any 318/340/360 from 70 up till like 78 or so. The balancer has nothing to do with your pulley setup. Look up member "whitepunkonnitro" on this site, send him a PM, and he can hook you up with all the pulleys, brackets, spacers ect at one shot! Not expensive that way either.

I bought a set from him. It was for a 70 340. Did not work. He said I must have a 73 harmonic balancer. I thought the balancer might be longer.
 
The pulleys you want would be off any 318/340/360 from 70 up till like 78 or so. The balancer has nothing to do with your pulley setup. Look up member "whitepunkonnitro" on this site, send him a PM, and he can hook you up with all the pulleys, brackets, spacers ect at one shot! Not expensive that way either.

The forged crank pulleys will not work on a cast crank balancer, you need to find a pulley set from a cast crank! The difficult part is going to be finding them from an A/C car, as those are different from non A/C cars as well!!
 
The forged crank pulleys will not work on a cast crank balancer, you need to find a pulley set from a cast crank! The difficult part is going to be finding them from an A/C car, as those are different from non A/C cars as well!!

This is news to me, as I have allways swapped pulleys from year to year off cast crank 318s, right onto steel crank 340s.... Maybe that 73 340 balance weight is in the way of the pulley? never thought of that....
 
This is news to me, as I have allways swapped pulleys from year to year off cast crank 318s, right onto steel crank 340s.... Maybe that 73 340 balance weight is in the way of the pulley? never thought of that....

Not only is the bolt pattern of the crank pulleys different, which can be overcome by grinding out one hole, but the depth is different and will require the corresponding brackets and pulleys for an A/C car with a cast crank!
 
Not only is the bolt pattern of the crank pulleys different, which can be overcome by grinding out one hole, but the depth is different and will require the corresponding brackets and pulleys for an A/C car with a cast crank!

I knew about the slotting bolt hole deal... Sounds like this particular pulley setup is a one year only deal then, correct?
 
Well, I am a bit confused myself, now. I went and dug out my 340 cast crank damper, and a 340 steel crank damper. I took a mid 70s AC pulley off a 318 A body, bolted right to both, and the spacing was the same. The cask crank balancer IS slightly thicker, but that doesn't effect the pulley. One bolt hole needs slotted, but the pulley was spaced exactly the same on either balancer. I think the OP needs to post a pic of what he is trying to put together. Maybe his balancer isn't fully seated on the crankshaft?
 
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