70 Dart Swinger Restorationish

[pyrogen007]

Finally got back to it a little back at the end of Feb and almost finished what I started today, the pockets? behind the wheel openings. Right side, started with power tools and finished it off with chemicals and black aluminum oxide.

 

[pyrogen007]

Left side is not done, started with media blast and since I had to wait a day or so, treated it with chemicals. Not photo of the chemical treatment, I was in danger of sleeping on the sofa.

 

[str12-340]

Once you finish your project, I have a suggestion that was told to me 25 years ago. Get a pump oil can and a quart of 30 weight engine oil. All major manufacturers have rust inhibitors in the oil. Get a half dozen small glass jars. Get into the trunk and start squirting oil over the rear wheel well so it flows down to the pinch weld that secures the bottom of the area where you have been working, over the wheel opening and into the slot at the edge of the trunk floor. In the bottom of the pinch weld (outside) there are a series of drain openings (looks like a wrinkle in one side of the weld). Place a jar under each drain and soon you will have oil running out of them all the way to the front of the rocker panel below the front of the front door. It will take a few days to get it all to drain out. Then do the other side (or do both at the same time if you have twice the jars. If a drain doesn't flow use a piece of coat hanger to open it up. You have just soaked one of the hardest to reach places in you car body that is prone to rust. Repeat once every 5 years or so.

The other issue is stuff falling into that slot between the trunk extension and the rear quarter. Over the years I have fished all sorts of stuff out of those places. If what falls down absorbs water and holds it there, it is a perfect rot environment. In my last car, when I replaced the trunk mat, I got a sheet of trunk mat material (available from Legendary and other trunk mat sources). I used the old mat as a pattern and left the mat long on each side so that it covers up the problem slot. I'm really big on protecting the work that I do...

 

[pyrogen007]

@str12-340 That is some seriously useful info right there!!!

 

[pyrogen007]

After some rain and cold front, I finally got to finish left side. Now, 2 questions:

1. Can y'all answer what the purpose of those tabs are circled in the last photo?

2. Install rear suspension and axle now or wait until after I have finished with the rear torque boxes and subframe connectors?

Thanks!!

 

[str12-340]

Part of holding parts in position during the manufacturing process... after that no use.

 

[pyrogen007]

Ah ok, I was wondering if the top ones were for holding exhaust hanger or something but didn't seem strong enough.

 

[str12-340]

Tailpipe hangers were attached to the side of the frame rail on the outside. All of them have a square hole and an adjacent round hole - nut clip goes through the square hole until the threaded part lines up with the round hole

 

[pyrogen007]

Got a little more work done, mainly used the stripper disk on the angle grinder on the spare tire hump and around it. Looking like progress finally, will get the rear axle in and make it a roller again. Just got the front 2/3 to do now.

 

[pa340dart]

I’m very impressed with the quality work you’re doing on your Dart.
The weather up here is 50ish one day then low 30s the next
I have to do the identical process to my 70 dart but have 1/4-1/2” of undercoat to contend with.
Just hoping for consistent warmer weather up here
Thanks for taking the time to document and shared your journey with us. Keep the posts coming

 

[pyrogen007]

Thank you! I'll say, it's far from perfect but I am working with what I have and I am fortunate here in NE Texas that it warms up quickly.

 

[pyrogen007]

Got a little bit of work done here and there over the past week. Its nice doing mechanical things again as it doesn't take near as long to get setup. I went to mount the leaf springs and the 2 of the washers on the kep nuts that secure the front hanger to the car shattered and 1 or 2 more have visible cracks. I purchased the 1/2in relocation kit from DoctorDiff so I reached out to them on whether or not it was acceptable to use grade 8 hardware or were replacement Kep nuts required. Cass responded with grade 8 was acceptable and since I had 3/8-16 nuts and split washers already I was able to keep moving. Got the car supported by jack stands under the axle housing and tightened up all the hardware with "weight of the car".

 

[pa340dart]

Double check this shackle angle
Could be the picture but doesn’t look right

 

[mygasser]

Double check this shackle angle
Could be the picture but doesn’t look right

View attachment 1716525731

looking at the other pics there the axle's hanging down, not even any shocks to stop it going down as far as it wants.
neil.

 

[pyrogen007]

I was shocked at how far the axle droops without shocks or brake lines/cables installed. The car was sitting on stands under the frame rail in those photos. I have the car sitting on stands under the axle housing now because I was also worried about shackle angle, having had a lifted Jeep before, I was a little worried. Shackle angle actually looks pretty good with the weight of the car on the suspension.

Took a photo of the shackle angle as it sits.

 

[pyrogen007]

For the work I accomplished today, got the axles cleaned up, wheel bearings cleaned up and re-packed and then installed the backing plate, gaskets and axles. Axle preset is done. We won't talk about the wasted 20 minutes I spend looking for the housing flange studs only to remember that I didn't remove them from the housing.

 

[tom999w]

After some rain and cold front, I finally got to finish left side. Now, 2 questions:

1. Can y'all answer what the purpose of those tabs are circled in the last photo?

My Demon has a cover that mounts there to conceal the evap hoses from the gas tank. I think the loop holds one side of the cover on, in addition to a tab on the other side that slides into the hose hole, and a screw on the opposite side holding the panel in.

 

[pyrogen007]

Finally got back to working on the Dart, sticking with the 10in brakes that came on the 70 Coronet axle I have... for now. I tried to get started on assembling the drum brakes a few days ago but the new wheel cylinders didn't come with bolts, it was fun determining the right size and then ordering some. I thought wheel cylinders always came with new bolts, boy was I wrong.

I watched a YT video about 5 times while sitting there staring at the parts kits and parts until I remembered enough to get started. So first issue of many was that my parking brake levers didn't fit in the brake shoes, had to file out the hole to get them to fit. Got the left side about 1/2 assembled and realized the video I watched was working the brakes on the table top not on the car so no mention of connecting the parking brake cable to the lever so I had to take it back apart. Got it back together just to realize that my anti-rattle springs on the spreader were missing and they don't supply them in the parts kits, ugh, so off to the parts store. I went ahead and grabbed some drum brake tools while I was out, because while I could assemble the brakes with hand tools, it was frustrating. Then for some reason it was the next day.

Got restarted on the left side and oh man is it nice having the right tools, but I digress, got the anti-rattle spring installed and started progressing on when I noticed that the small cable for the parking brake was about 2 inches too short. Wasted more than an hour making sure I purchased the right parts kit and comparing the left to the right sides. Then wasted more time on the computer finding one of the cables to order, what a pain. So I had to stop on that side and got started on the right side. The right side was smooth as oiled glass, I was second guessing myself because it went too good.

Figured I still had daylight so I grabbed my new wheel studs and got to installing those. I started on the right side, greased the holes real good and got my spacers set and a nut I didn't care about messing up. Got all 5 started and then started "torqueing" them down with my 1/4 in impact driver since its usually strong enough to do suspension, wheels, ect... well it snapped my 1/4in hex to 1/2in drive adapter so I had to pull out the pneumatic impact. Got all 10 studs installed fairly easy after that.

I have brand new axle brake lines from inline tube, spent a lot of time making sure I ordered the right ones since the vent is in different locations depending on housings and different T blocks depending on the year ect.. well still had to massage the right side line(the long one) and straighten half the left side line and re-bend it to get it to connect. I see why everyone seems to complain about new parts, new does not equal good however there is still a possibility I messed up somewhere. Hydraulics are complete from the flex line to the wheel cylinders now, I just need that one cable to finish up the brakes and start looking for wheels as I don't have any that fit.

So, please don't take any of my post as complaining, its not, I promise, just sharing my experience since I can't remember the last time I assembled drum brakes. How would one go about cleaning/painting parking brake cables? Mine are in good working order but don't look as good as the rest of the rear end....

 

[pyrogen007]

So I put the drum on and spun it and it has a slight rub on a shoe. I don't have a dial indicator so I eyeball the drum, it looks ok, I spin the axle flange and eyeball indicator that. Slight wobble. I guess the axle is bent, ugh. I took a video but can't seem to upload it, only gives the option for photos.

 

[mygasser]

in my experience it's rare with drum brakes not to have a slightly 'tighter' spot when turning the drum after a rebuild. once bedded in they usually smooth out. i'd drive it a while before worrying too much.
neil.

 

[pyrogen007]

Drums were serviceable so I cleaned them up and plan on reusing them, axle flange with the drum off has a noticeable wobble, you think that would be ok? Id estimate between .060 and 0.80 inches, maybe I'll go buy a dial indicator and measure run out before buying axle shafts

 

[mygasser]

when you say 'wobble' does the flange move in and out, up and down or both? if it's just in and out you can have the face machined true in a lathe.
neil.

 

[pyrogen007]

Outside edge of the flange moves in and out in relation to the stationary parts(brake shoes/housing ect..), I wish I could upload the video I took, would help.

Google Photos

let me know if that works, thanks!

 

[mygasser]

if it's 60-80 thou at the edge of the flange i'll pull the halfshaft and get the face turned true. i've had it done twice and it cured juddering brakes both times. the cause could be it's slid sideways into a kerb at some time in the past.
neil.

 

[pyrogen007]

The 60-80 thou is a guess, it looks about 1/16in or so off and no dial indicator to know for sure, but you're probably right about what might have happened to it in its past. I'll see if any of my buddies have a dial indicator I can borrow, for science, but I went ahead and bought new axles from DoctorDiff since the price wasn't too painful. Left side spins true so I'll be keeping them both as spares, maybe I can find a shop that will true it up for me for less than the cost of a new axle shaft.