70 Duster rally dash Bezel Removel

[mistreta]

I want to have my dash bezel restored, (not the gauges) found a place that will do the work.
Not sure what needs to be to be done to remove just the bezel. (not the gauges) I see screws that need to come out, set screws that hold the slider heater control knobs. Not sure how the headlight and wiper knobs are removed. Anything else?

Thanks
Tony in Howell

 

[dartman 440]

all the gauges bolt on fron the back side and you will also have to remove the lenses from the back side , the switches have the retaining ring on the front that you will loosen and remove , maybe can use a needle nose pliers for this and use the tips of the pliers after removing the knob . the odometer will loosen the opposite of reset. you will need to disconnect the wiring and the speedometer cable as well as the heater control cables and maybe the radio but i think it can stay , the screws on the front will allow you to remove the cluster after all the other stuff has been disconnected . after you remove the gauges , you will have to use a exacto knife to cut the lense retainer plastic like welds from the main cluster , these will then be glued back on during re assembly , and there are several brackets and brackes that will need to be removed before you have it rechromed , my best suggestion to you would be to take alot of pics along the way , i did and it still was not enough. let me know if you need any other questions answered , good luck Ed aka dartman 440

 

[RedFish]

How to remove these instrument panels ( along with a whole lot more helpful info ) can be found in factory service manuals. Many of these manuals are free downloads at mymopar website.
If I attempted to type out the entire process I might forget something.
I would also insert tips to make it a little easier, get by without special tools, how to drive the car without a inst' panel for a time if needed, what else should be done while the panel is out, etc.., etc...
Best plan, start with factory service manual, then ask questions as they come up.
Good luck with it.

 

[mistreta]

How to remove these instrument panels ( along with a whole lot more helpful info ) can be found in factory service manuals. Many of these manuals are free downloads at mymopar website.
If I attempted to type out the entire process I might forget something.
I would also insert tips to make it a little easier, get by without special tools, how to drive the car without a inst' panel for a time if needed, what else should be done while the panel is out, etc.., etc...
Best plan, start with factory service manual, then ask questions as they come up.
Good luck with it.

Thank you for the input, a lot more to do than I thought. Just came in for lunch, removed headlight switch knob's, odometer, wiper retainer nuts, heater controls, also all the screws from the front. Did not know the gauges needed to be disconnected. So the bezel is one piece, wood grain and the lower black part? Looks like I may have to stand on my head.
I have a service manual, need to look at it more, maybe check out your site.

Thanks again
Tony

 

[RedFish]

Yeah , a lot of guys will lay upside down in the floor, remove a seat, etc.., I'm not able ( back problems ) so I had to find alternate methods. I do a good bit of it kneeling in the drivers door opening, including lowering the steering column. What I can't do from here is done while sitting in the seats.
I think the service manual will state to remove the one screw holding the fuse box in place. Moving the fuse box a little provides space to get a hand/arm in to push the stem release button on headlight switch and disconnect the speedometer cable. I reach under the car and free the speedo cable from a sheet metal strap beneath the drivers seat area. Then I can pull excess cable into the cabin and use that cable as a helping hand. It's one of the last disconnects and the first reconnect for me.
Service manual states move the panel outward and tilt face downward. They don't say how far outward before downward. There's a harness connection at upper left of the panel with 3 fragile contact pins. It's too close to the upper edge. You wont see many of these used small boards that don't have bent or broken pins.

 

[mistreta]

Yeah , a lot of guys will lay upside down in the floor, remove a seat, etc.., I'm not able ( back problems ) so I had to find alternate methods. I do a good bit of it kneeling in the drivers door opening, including lowering the steering column. What I can't do from here is done while sitting in the seats.
I think the service manual will state to remove the one screw holding the fuse box in place. Moving the fuse box a little provides space to get a hand/arm in to push the stem release button on headlight switch and disconnect the speedometer cable. I reach under the car and free the speedo cable from a sheet metal strap beneath the drivers seat area. Then I can pull excess cable into the cabin and use that cable as a helping hand. It's one of the last disconnects and the first reconnect for me.
Service manual states move the panel outward and tilt face downward. They don't say how far outward before downward. There's a harness connection at upper left of the panel with 3 fragile contact pins. It's too close to the upper edge. You wont see many of these used small boards that don't have bent or broken pins.

Thank you for your help, I'll let you all know how I do.

 

[4spdragtop]

Do not remove the lens. Depending on the company doing the bezel (GCAR?), they will remove and reinstall.
Redfish and Dartman pretty much got ya covered. I would take radio out before bezel comes out. The radio is heavy and could break bezel if unsupported.
Put a towel on top of steering column to protect them.
For me I take seat out and lay on floor.
Good luck

 

[TrailBeast]

Do not remove the lens. Depending on the company doing the bezel (GCAR?), they will remove and reinstall.
Redfish and Dartman pretty much got ya covered. I would take radio out before bezel comes out. The radio is heavy and could break bezel if unsupported.
Put a towel on top of steering column to protect them.
For me I take seat out and lay on floor.
Good luck

I lay with my head down by the pedals, my *** on the seat with my legs up over the seat back.
Or I lay on my back with half of me sticking out the door and the upper half on the floor.
Either way hurts.

 

[4spdragtop]

I hear ya Greg. I have a 20 minute limit on the seat. If it aint fixed by then, the bucket is coming out. My backs permanently f'd so I gotta find comfort where I can Lol

I lay with my head down by the pedals, my *** on the seat with my legs up over the seat back.
Or I lay on my back with half of me sticking out the door and the upper half on the floor.
Either way hurts.

 

[340wedge]

All good advice here. I just did mine a few months ago (BE/A). The only thing I would add is I glued my lenses as well as melted the posts as they tend to be a weak spot. Also try to get the heater controls screwed back to the dash while it is not screwed back in place as they are hard to reach. I would also clean and solder those weak pins on the plugs for the gauges. Speaking of which, I went to a transistor style IVR and I am happy I did.

 

[mistreta]

All good advice here. I just did mine a few months ago (BE/A). The only thing I would add is I glued my lenses as well as melted the posts as they tend to be a weak spot. Also try to get the heater controls screwed back to the dash while it is not screwed back in place as they are hard to reach. I would also clean and solder those weak pins on the plugs for the gauges. Speaking of which, I went to a transistor style IVR and I am happy I did.

View attachment 1714984154

View attachment 1714984155

 

[mistreta]

Running into a road block. All the screws in the front panel are out,as all the retaining nuts on the headlights, wiper. radio is out, ash tray, spedo disconnected. Bezel is loose but won't come out. Seems to be hung up on the heater controls. The front knobs are off. dartman said the gauges bolt on from the backside, don't see where. Any ideas?

 

[mistreta]

I want to have my dash bezel restored, (not the gauges) found a place that will do the work.
Not sure what needs to be to be done to remove just the bezel. (not the gauges) I see screws that need to come out, set screws that hold the slider heater control knobs. Not sure how the headlight and wiper knobs are removed. Anything else?

Thanks
Tony in HowellView attachment 1714983361

View attachment 1714983362

Running into a road block. All the screws in the front panel are out,as all the retaining nuts on the headlights, wiper. radio is out, ash tray, spedo disconnected. Bezel is loose but won't come out. Seems to be hung up on the heater controls. The front knobs are off. dartman said the gauges bolt on from the backside, don't see where. Any ideas?

 

[RedFish]

The climate controller is bolted to the pot metal inst' housing. One bolt each end. Socket, short extension 5/16 or 3/8, I forget. I want to say 3/8. Easiest access for me is through the glove box.
BTW, If you feel a screw on the right side of the controller that a 3/8 socket don't fit ( this one requires a 1/4 socket ) ... wrong screw. This one will come out after the panel is face down on a workbench along with 7 others.

 

[mistreta]

The climate controller is bolted to the pot metal inst' housing. One bolt each end. Socket, short extension 5/16 or 3/8, I forget. I want to say 3/8. Easiest access for me is through the glove box.
BTW, If you feel a screw on the right side of the controller that a 3/8 socket don't fit ( this one requires a 1/4 socket ) ... wrong screw. This one will come out after the panel is face down on a workbench along with 7 others.

So a bolt on both sides of the control, I did see the one on the passenger side, but did not see the other one. Looks like a trick to get to that one. The glove box out should help.

Thanks so much, I'll let you know how I do

 

[RedFish]

So a bolt on both sides of the control, I did see the one on the passenger side, but did not see the other one. Looks like a trick to get to that one. The glove box out should help.

Thanks so much, I'll let you know how I do

Yep, For the 67 model, they poked that left hand bolt in between the fan switch and sliders making it very difficult for their own service techs to find. It's placed left of the fan switch in 68 up.

 

[dartman 440]

yes the gauges do come out from the rear , the rear of the cluster , but thats not whats holding you up . whats you current status on this removal as of now? thanks ed aka dartman 440

 

[mistreta]

yes the gauges do come out from the rear , the rear of the cluster , but thats not whats holding you up . whats you current status on this removal as of now? thanks ed aka dartman 440

I removed the 1/4 bolt from the passenger side, but I can't see or feel anything on the left side.
I see a stud on the left, and just below, it looks like the plastic is over the control.
Hope the pictures help.
Thank you again

 

[RedFish]

They are there. The small lag thread screw on the far right end w/ 1/4 head holds the plastic bezel to the pot metal limb supporting the climate controller. Left of that is a machine thread bolt w/ 3/8 head. There's another just beyond the fan switch.
I've posted pics of the inst housings a long while back ( help define their differences ) but I don't have those pics handy today. I did find one pic. The 2 raised cones are between this limb and your bezel so hidden now. That is where the machine screw threads are and where you should find 3/8 hex heads.
A mirror through the ash tray opening might help.

 

[mistreta]

They are there. The small lag thread screw on the far right end w/ 1/4 head holds the plastic bezel to the pot metal limb supporting the climate controller. Left of that is a machine thread bolt w/ 3/8 head. There's another just beyond the fan switch.
I've posted pics of the inst housings a long while back ( help define their differences ) but I don't have those pics handy today. I did find one pic. The 2 raised cones are between this limb and your bezel so hidden now. That is where the machine screw threads are and where you should find 3/8 hex heads.
A mirror through the ash tray opening might help.

View attachment 1714985446

Well I removed the 1/4 screw, there both out. Now the bezel seems loose but the heater control does not seem free from the bezel. Also the bezel moves up, thought I would have enough room to tilt it out bottom first, but the steering column is tight to the bezel. Do I need to get that out of the way?

 

[RedFish]

Yes sir you will need to lower the steering column. Remove the column door/cover. 2 threaded studs with nuts there, then about half way down on right is a bolt going up into a captured nut. Do not cross thread that fecker going back together.
I always remove the 3 bolts at column plate to firewall too. Allows much more column movement.
I've never tried to tilt the panel bottom up. I kind of doubt that's doable.

 

[RedFish]

By the way, that little knob on the trip reset stem needs to come off also. If it doesn't simply screw off the stem when rotated counter clockwise, there is another way to remove it once we get the assembly to the workbench.

 

[mistreta]

By the way, that little knob on the trip reset stem needs to come off also. If it doesn't simply screw off the stem when rotated counter clockwise, there is another way to remove it once we get the assembly to the workbench.

The picture is when I just started the project, the trip reset knob is off.
So one nut on either side of the column, and the bolt to the right of the column next to the black box?

 

[RedFish]

yep, I edited that earlier post to mention the 3 at firewall plate

 

[RedFish]

That bezel is starting to look pretty darn good now aint it ? LOL
As for the climate controller, One could disconnect the blend door cables and wiring, bring it out with the panel. I wouldn't go that route. I would keep fishing after that 1 more bolt until I caught it.