700HP 383 Buildup

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gforce

Big Block Greek
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Hi,

Im looking to build myself a 700HP+ Mopar engine using the famous 383, I would like to know if this could be done with standard crankshaft? the Rods and Pistons will have to be changed that i know, i just dont know what crank is in my engine as i got it with a complete bottom end for free :D

The Block has been 0 Decked and squared already and has been fitted with ARP Main Studs, Rodbolts and has Clevite 77 Bearings

Regards
Nathan from Australia
 
Well, not to be a party pooper, but a 383 will need some serious boost to get to that level, and it would need to be turbos. The block should hold together, but the stress a blower making that kind of boost puts on the crank snout might cause problems. The crank, rods, and pistons need to be changed, and not to SCAT cheapies. a good set of rods, a good (callies, not stock or 440source.com) 3.75" (440) stroke crank, and a custom set of boost psitons, plus a set of Edelbrocks would do it. I'd use 2 med size turbos, and plan on making serious boost (Like 15-20psi) preferably with an intercooler. You'll be close or over the 700 level. The block will need some upgrading too. I wouldnt bother. Nobody needs 700 hp unless its a drag racing for money situation.
 
or unless you're me... i doubt logically you could do it with a 383 - the 440 would be a better starting point... i have a 383 myself so i know what you want but it is just not logical to use the 383 for it
 
what would be a realistic power range I can expect for a 383?
Im Planning to use an ATI Supercharger
 
it all depends..is it going to be EFI controlled, or blow thru carb? Intercooled? what supercharger? what pulley? You could make 350-500 or so prety easy. The down side is, to make big boost with a centrifical supercharger, you use up 15-20% of the power made just to turn the blower. That's why I wouldnt use one. I'd use turbos. Less boost, and much less parasitic loss, from the same support systems (if it's going to be EFI anyway).
 
Why not build a 500 HP 383 and then toss a 200 HP Nitrous kit on it? Just make sure you build the motor with Nitrous in mind. 500 HP is do able and 200 hp nitrous is livable. If you get some indy heads or one of the other aftermarket ones you'll probably get even better numbers.
You could also stroke it. toss in a 440 crank and have a lowblock 426, or even a bigger stroked crank.
A 400 block would be better though.
Good luck
 
Hmm, so 500HP is fesable, is it possible with standard heads?
 
a guy i know just a little had a GTX with a 700horsepower tunnelramed 440 (this is no joke this 440 was totaly insane) using brutaly ported iron heads but this was a realy radical streetengine, so ironheads should not be imposible but it will probably cost more to get those heads in shape for all that power than geting some aftermarket heads.
 
It can be gotten with forced induction, yes. You'll need to spec out a custom cam, and you need the heads flowed to see what kind of air they can move. I think I asked this, but how fast do you want to go? Or is it you just want to say it's 700? Most "700 hp" engines I know of, are billed that way because of being overcammed, and having loud mufflers. Not because they can run low 10s. It only takes 475 hp to get a 3500lbs car in the 11s.
 
I posted about using Indy heads, but they may not make intakes for 383's, If they don't you can either have one made or go with another company for heads, sorry I was pre-coffee LOL
 
ported and polished heads can be a good idea - i have a set on my 383 - i scored the set (906's) and bolted them up. Should run pretty sweet - im planning on about 400HP-450HP
 
I think 500 hp is possible with standard heads on a 383.
I'd install 2.14 intake valves and 1.81 exhaust, port a bunch and polish, match the ports to your intake and a good multi-angle valve job.
I put Manley Pro flow stainless steel valves in mine hoping for a little extra flow. I'll have to wait until the cars all done to find out. I built these heads before all the aluminum ones came out, or I would have grabs some of those.
You'll need a big cam too, I've got the 590 lift MP solid in my 383 but I wish I would have gone with a 600+lift roller instead.
I assume your putting this in a A body, just remember you can always lighten the car to get it to go faster.
Good Luck
 
will drivability suffer with the 600+ lift roller cam?
 
gforce said:
will drivability suffer with the 600+ lift roller cam?
That depends on what you consider driveable LOL If it's an automatic you'll need a High stall converter, then you got that to deal with as well, along with high compression pistons and finding gas.
What do you want this for? A secondary car that maybe just squeaks out on the street on a Friday night and goes to the track regularly, or something you drive back and forth to work, and/or school every day rain or shine, but ya want it to have some muscle?
You really have to pick and choose your parts carefully.
There's a certain point when building up a radical motor where it becomes a real pain to drive around all the time. You'll enjoy the car alot more if you build the motor for what it's mainly going to be used for. Do you really want to add octane booster EVERY TIME you fill up your big block(gas guzzling) car?
Just something to think about.
What kind of car is your 383 going into? Mines in a 70 Duster until I build a 500ci stroker for it.
 
i want a N/A Daily Driver that can run 10s-11s all day everyday. Must run on Pump Fuel
So im thinking 500-600HP Range to keep up with my mates 500-600HP Chev 350's

Dodge Dart '69

Ive already got KB Pistons, standard rods, steel crank, decked and zereod block.

im looking for Heads/Manifold/Carby and Cam Combinations
im also thinking a 727 Torqueflite with a Manual Valve Body
 
Nathan, if that's truely what you need,then i would suggest selling the parts and starting over. First, no 383 will make that kind of power on pump gas without some sort of boost. Second, stock rods will not hold for very long under that kind or strain, nor will the pistons. It doesnt sound like you have a lot of experience making this kind of power, or the other things that need to go with it. It takes roughly twice the money to get the same horsepower from a big block mopar vs. small block chevy, closer to 3 times if you also need reliability, and some sort of boost. You need to do all the same work, I'd suggest a 496 kit, put into a 440 block, and run that with Indy EZs or Bulldogs. Edelbrocks would also work, but make less power overall. Any of the 3 will need to be "cleaned up" to run well. Fiure a safe bet of $8000US, not including shipping, fuel system, a transmission to hold it, the Dana you'll need..etc etc. etc.

BTW, a 440 with decent compression, ported iron heads, and a solid cam will run high 10s with the right stuff in it, and I'd be surprised if it made 550 hp.
 
Yep I'd have to agree with Moper about trying to get that kind of power out of a pump gas 383, I'm running 11.5 to 1's in mine.

But hold on, what does your buddy have done to his 350 chevy that makes it so radical?
Does he have high Compression pistons?
Does he have aluminum heads?
Did he stroke it to a 383ci?
What does it run in the quarter mile?
What car does he have it in, does the car have any fiberglass on it?
What size cam is he running?
I don't know if this is the case, but I've run into so many so called 500-600hp small block Chevys, then they get waxed by a low 13 second Mopar. There are some VERY tricked out small block Chevys out there that can pump out that kind of power, but unless you know for sure he may just be pulling your chain. Just something to check out.

ALso Check out the posts from 383man about his sons Dart. It has a 400ci motor. That will give ya an idea on what it will take to do 11's, also look what it did to a 454 Chevy at the track =)
 
ProStreetDuster said:
What does it run in the quarter mile?
What car does he have it in, does the car have any fiberglass on it?
I don't know if this is the case, but I've run into so many so called 500-600hp small block Chevys, then they get waxed by a low 13 second Mopar.

My thought exactly. A similar post on a differrent website had a response that said something like this " the fastest way to make a 10 second car run 13s is to take it to the track."
Simple physics can tell you if he's close with the figures. weight of the car and mph, and gearing is needed, then we can tell him what it's actually doing. I have seen some powerful small blocks, naturally aspirated, that can make those kind of figures, but they dont grow on trees.

I'd just hate to see you over spend, or be disappointed in the result.
 
I was there when we had it on the Dyno.
Bowtie Heads and Manifold. Port Matched and everything
Barry Grant Carby
its running an a Holden A9X Torana (www.google.com)

Never ran it in the quater

What if I make it a stroker? Would it make the power?
 
Have you thought about losing some wieght off of your car, the lighter it is, the fasterit will go with less power. Their are other things beside horsepower to worry about!!!
 
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