71 Scamp Disc Conversion ???

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BigWhi

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Just curious what you guys recommend. Should I buy a disc brake conversion kit if so any ideas on which one? Budget Friendly. Or should I buy the parts off of a parts car?
 
The thing that made me use stock car parts (73 Charger spindles) was that I drive my car almost everyday and didn't want to have to wait for replacement parts if I ever had a problem. With the stock type parts I can go down to the parts store and get replacement parts (bearings, calipers, brake pads, etc) off the shelf (very little down time). If you only drive your car every now you can afford to have the car down while you wait on replacement parts. That's the logic I used anyway.

treblig
 
Do you have SBP wheels now and do you want to keep them? If so then you might want to source a Kelsey Hayes setup. If you plan on going LBP in the future, then go with The 73-76 disc swap which is very popular but does use LBP. Find a set of adapters for the rear to convert to LBP until you can find a LBP rear end.

EDIT: Hemi71x just posted a set of rebuilt KH calipers should you decide to go that way
 
Wilwood better quality fit and finish then ANY of that stock stuff!!!
And you can set it up for small or big bolt pattern..try that with the factory crap without having to change everything!!
 
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I can't answer that; I will be using the 73-76 conversion in my 65 wagon. Others will for sure chime in with their opinions
 
How many disk conversion threads do we need? There's like 3 active, current threads running right now. The answers/opinions/options are still the same.

73+ Mopar disks. All factory designed parts, everything you need to replace parts available at the local parts house, more then enough stopping power for a street car. Millions of miles logged, super reliable. And the 5x4.5" big bolt pattern, bonus.

Get them from Dr. Diff, $445 out the door for everything you need unless you want to keep the small ball joint UCA's, then $480. Cass is awesome. Great customer service, knowledgeable and able to answer questions about your specific application.

Cheapest Wilwoods will set you back $787, plus another $60 for hoses that aren't included. Total waste of money to save a couple pounds. Maybe if you need that last .01 second at the drag strip, that's about all it's good for. And you can probably save more weight for less money somewhere else anyway. There's a really good chance your original SBP wheels won't fit over the hub register on the Wilwoods too, so you still might need new wheels regardless of the SBP option. Oh, and the wheels studs are 1/2" not 7/16", so, those won't fit most stock SBP wheels either.

And why anyone wants to keep the SBP I have no idea. Weaker studs (if they're the original 7/16"), no wheel selection, and all of your brake parts are more expensive. Maybe on some 100% accurate OE restoration. But if that's the case you're not converting to disks anyway.

Go 73+, spend your extra $367 on a set of $300 BBP 8 3/4 axles from Dr diff, use the remaining $67 to buy a set of 10x2.5" drums from the local wrecking yard. The wilwoods will probably require new rims anyway, so you're even and you've got disks, upgraded axles and better drums out back that are easy to find parts for.
 
I went 100% with Doctor Diff. (Cass)
Awesome guy! Started with the first photo finished with the last photo. All from Cass. I rest my case. Lol

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If it will fit your 14 inch steelies, and i believe they will why not the scarebird kit? Seems reasonably affordable for average joe who like myself where yards dont have old cars anymore, unless 198x is old....
 
I went 100% with Doctor Diff. (Cass)
Awesome guy! Started with the first photo finished with the last photo. All from Cass. I rest my case. Lol

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Wow looks like a nice job there. I think I will go this route as well. I'm just building a daily driver and no need to really high performance parts like Wilwood. Thanks to everyone that commented on this post even if it was condescending lol. I appreciate you guys.
 
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