71 Scamp Engine Check

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octanejunkie

Mopar Padawan
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Los Angeles, CA
Got under my new Scamp for the first time yesterday, got all over it in fact, and got real familiar with it; overall it is in pretty good condition.

There was a pretty bad oil leak when it was delivered to me, the seller thought it was the rear main seal - always a handy place to leak from, no? Plus the Oil idiot light was on so I decided to change the oil and filter and check the plugs - boy was I surprised with what I found!

About 7 quarts of black "fluid" came out of the pan, not thick like engine oil, but about as thin as mineral oil; and it stunk like gas. Which makes me think the rings aren't sealing and it's blowing by like crazy. I let that drain a while and looked at the plugs.

The plugs were black and thickly soot covered but not wet. They were AC Delco R45XLS plugs and were roughly gapped around .040-.045; I numberd them and saved them for pics in the light.

While the plugs were out I decided to do a compression test. I was kind of interested in what I found. I did a 3-4 stroke per cyinder test with leak down over 3 mins and got the following results:
CYL Crank PSI Leak Down
CYL 1 125 110
CYL 2 115 105
CYL 3 130 115
CYL 4 120 105
CYL 5 140 120
CYL 6 125 110
CYL 7 110 090 (couldn't get gauge super tight due to exh)
CYL 8 120 115

Overall not the worst compression, but this was before new oil with some viscosity was added. I will pull a few random plugs and check again in the near future. I replaced the plugs with Autolite 66 plugs gapped to .035 tightened to 12 lbs ft.

Then I added my oil back, 5 qts of 20W50 with a new STP filter. There was A LOT of valve train noise on start up but she seemed to quiet down after a few minutes but now the oil idiot light went out, so it seems all is well. I visually checked for oiling since no pressure gauge yet. After about 20 mins of running, no more oil leak either, go figure. I left my vacuum gauge in my truck so I didn't check vacuum/valve timing yet. Perhaps today if I have time.

I did take a quick look at the carb, a Carter AFB, didn't pull the model number yet but it is an emissions series carb judging by the canister vapor vent on the passenger side between the fuel port and the electric choke. I found the idle mixture screws bottomed out (all the way in) hard against the seats, probably ruined the seats by the look of the needles. I backed them out a bit to 1-1/2 turns off seat.

Next to do is check/set timing and advance and replace belts, they look like they are about to go any second. I haven't even looked for a timing mark yet, that should be fun. I am sure I will need a dial-advance timing light as I suspect there are no markings for anything beyond TDC - plus I need to confirm the TDC mark is accurate, so I have my work cut out for me there.

I will post pics later, forgot my camera at work and used my friends' yesterday, gotta download the pics today. Will post updates.

What should my initial timing be on the 318?

I also did a full visual inspection under the car and found
 
CHECK YOUR FLOATS IN THE CARB !!!! It sounds like the floats are either leaking or set wrong, thus the high level and thin oil in the crankcase and the zero oil pressure. Gas is leaking into the carb and into the motor !!! Pull the carb apart before running it any more and do a rebuild - when you get it apart shake the floats near your ear, if they slosh they are screwed, buy new ones to replace them ! Also check your fuel pump, the diaphram could be leaking causing the same problem !
 
mechanical fuel pumps can mix gas in the oil too. The 7 qrts of thinned oil would leak where 5 qrts of 10W30 might not or not nearly as bad anyway.
 
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